Shackle reversal?

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Joined
Nov 26, 2008
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Location
Charleston, SC
Please explain this to me. I am considering HFS springs and shackles. They told me I should do a shackle reversal to take away a rocking motion. I am totally confused on this and have been trying to do a search without any luck thus far. How much are reversed shackles and where should I get them from?
 
Please explain this to me. I am considering HFS springs and shackles. They told me I should do a shackle reversal to take away a rocking motion. I am totally confused on this and have been trying to do a search without any luck thus far. How much are reversed shackles and where should I get them from?

Read this...

MAF Technical Info

Should answer most of your questions.
 
Please explain this to me. I am considering HFS springs and shackles. They told me I should do a shackle reversal to take away a rocking motion.




Rocking motion?


What rocking motion?



H E R E <---- this is a link

They told you that you do not need longer brake lines for a 4-inch spring and shackle lift too.... :rolleyes:
 
I just found it on the MAF site. Thanks.
 
Hi All:

You don't need a shackle reversal to run *any* springs, let alone the "HFS" springs from CCOT.

The only advantage of a shackle reversal, IMHO, is approach angle, and this is only if a custom low-profile SR is done. And, yes, the front drive shaft may need to be modified.

Regards,

Alan
 
I was under the impression that a shackle reversal not only helps the approach angle,but bump steer and as the spring is compressed helps the pinion angle as well :confused: But I could be wrong it has happened before.
 
I was under the impression that a shackle reversal not only helps the approach angle,but bump steer and as the spring is compressed helps the pinion angle as well :confused: But I could be wrong it has happened before.

I was also told this and that the Shackle reversal gives a much better and controlled ride.
 
I was also told this and that the Shackle reversal gives a much better and controlled ride.

Fantasy...

A SR has nothing to do with ride quality. Most of the people that claim significant differences are noticing new bushings and tighter components.. Not something fundamental to the SR..

I can give you a better approach angle (if it is a low profile SR) and it does tend to make a long travel Drive shaft necessary (not always but very common)


Personally, I would not do one...
 
I've had it both ways. Still do. I would not do this again. You just don't need it.

For a pure rock crawler, it does give a better approach angle with custom mounts. Still, it introduces a bunch of other issues, like a long travel front shaft, new steering components, etc. It also alters caster, so you need to consider that, and correct appropriately. If I was going to do it with a spring undertruck , I would use the MAF brackets.
 
Sounds like there are more cons than pros. I probably won't do one.
 
I've had it both ways. Still do.

Hmmm......sounds a little gay......

Seriously though, yes it improves your aproach angle and supposedly makes them ride/handle better, but better than what? these things aint Caddies boys!

Another thing to consider, the most amount of stress on the frame is on the solid end of the spring, thats why the factory puts the solid ends in the middle of the car, where the frame is stronger. If you do an SR, you should at least box in the front of the frame. Just sayin...............
 
Hmmm......sounds a little gay......

Seriously though, yes it improves your aproach angle and supposedly makes them ride/handle better, but better than what? these things aint Caddies boys!

Another thing to consider, the most amount of stress on the frame is on the solid end of the spring, thats why the factory puts the solid ends in the middle of the car, where the frame is stronger. If you do an SR, you should at least box in the front of the frame. Just sayin...............

Good point.
 
I was under the impression that a shackle reversal not only helps the approach angle,but bump steer .

Bump steer is caused by a high angle on the drag link between the Pitman arm (or center arm) and the steering arm on the passenger side knuckle. As the springs compress and extend, the drag link makes the knuckle turn right and left without moving the Pitman arm. The bump steer effect is minimal when the drag link is parallel to the tie rod. If anything a SR would increase bump steer if it lifts the vehicle so that the drag link angle is increased.
 
I guess this topic will never end. How many times does this have to be discussed? One more time please.................
I HAVE NO SR AND NO BUMP STEER

kyle
 
Hmmm......sounds a little gay......

Seriously though, yes it improves your aproach angle and supposedly makes them ride/handle better, but better than what? these things aint Caddies boys!

Another thing to consider, the most amount of stress on the frame is on the solid end of the spring, thats why the factory puts the solid ends in the middle of the car, where the frame is stronger. If you do an SR, you should at least box in the front of the frame. Just sayin...............

There is no ride/handling improvment over a properly functioning truck.

The location of the spring hanger varies depending on which vehicle you are talking about.

Jeeps and LC's have the spring hanger behind the axle. Mini trucks have the spring hanger in front of the axle.

It all depends on design.
 

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