Setting the timing on a 3F

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rfj62

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Hey guys, I'm attempting to set the timing on my '89 Cruiser and I think I messed it up. I followed the FSM (I think) by first shorting TE1 and E1 (the rpms dropped from 650 to 600 rpms) , I hooked up the tach meter (the kind that goes around the plug wire). The idle was a little off so I adjusted it using the idle screw on top of the intake manifold, to 650rpms. I then adjusted the timing by turning the distributor so the marks were right on. After that I removed the service wire the rpms went up to about 800rpms. Thats where I am at now. I only see one timing mark on the fly wheel, is there a way to know which mark it is (7 or 12 deg)? How many teeth are on the fly wheel? Any help would be appreciated. Jeff
 
Hey guys, I'm attempting to set the timing on my '89 Cruiser and I think I messed it up. I followed the FSM (I think) by first shorting TE1 and E1 (the rpms dropped from 650 to 600 rpms) , I hooked up the tach meter (the kind that goes around the plug wire). The idle was a little off so I adjusted it using the idle screw on top of the intake manifold, to 650rpms. I then adjusted the timing by turning the distributor so the marks were right on. After that I removed the service wire the rpms went up to about 800rpms. Thats where I am at now. I only see one timing mark on the fly wheel, is there a way to know which mark it is (7 or 12 deg)? How many teeth are on the fly wheel? Any help would be appreciated. Jeff
ya 650 is where it should be at...did you not use a timing light? Where is the rotor pointing at...what cylinder?

I cannot remember the amount of teeth .. the timing mark on the drive plate is aligned for the 7 degree mark
 
Adjusting the timing upped the idle ( advancing, specifically will increase idle speed) "BB" on flywheel = 7 deg BTDC. Not having asn fsm, I can only say that some auto makers I know will recommend setting a base rpm ( like what you did using your service wire) then letting the computer take over setting dynamic idle on the fly, on it's own. Based on that, I'd verify you have your advance where ya want it ( a little advanced from 7 deg would be fine based on engine performance), then set base idle rpm's. Unless someone can chime in w/ 3FE specifics to the contrary.
 
advance where ya want it ( a little advanced from 7 deg would be fine based on engine performance), then set base idle rpm's. Unless someone can chime in w/ 3FE specifics to the contrary.
yes a little higher advanced will be fine. Hell I think some take it as far as 12
 
Ok, so I set the timing using a tach, with the service wire in, and a timing light and 7 deg BTDC. Question is how do I get the idle back down to around 650 rpms with the service wire removed (when I pull the service wire my idle goes up to 800 rpms)? Can I just adjust it with the idle screw?
 
Hold the phone... Perhaps I'm about to learn something, but is the idle on a 62 even adjustable at all? Seems the IAC handles that? Confirm you are only slightly advanced, and that your IAC is not dirty. Also, you aren't expecting 650 rpm on a cold engine.
 
The throttle body has a brass screw on it that lets you adjust the idle up and down as required. So as you advance or retard the timing you decrease or advance rpm perspectively. As you advance you decrease your rpm and as you retard your timing you increase your rpm. I have had better luck doing it in a two man team. Btw you might want to check your valve lash while you're doing your timing. It will make a difference if your valves are adjusted properly or not when setting the advance/retard of the ignition.
 
Engine to flywheel

Hey guys, I took some advise from the guys at 3FE yahoo group and took off the plate at the bottom of the bell housing and rotated the engine until I found the O's, 2 small and 1 large, that represent TDC and 7deg TDC, respectively. I will paint them white so they are easier to see. These were definitely not the marks that I was using earlier. My question is, is there only one way to attach the engine to the fly wheel, rotationally? It seems to me that if the drive plate was put in any which way the marks would be irrelevant. What do you guys think? Jeff
 
only one way for the flywheel to go on.

Set your timing wt 13-14, not the factory recccomended 7 degrees BTDC
If you are using a nonadjustable timing light... put the 7 degree mark as the very bottom of the window instead of on the pointer.


Mark...
 
Mark, I have a timing light that you can advance timing 0-60 degs, so your saying I should set the timing gun to 6 or 7 deg advanced, that will give me the 13-14 deg of advance timing I'm looking for? So I will still be looking for the pointer to line up with the drill dot? Thanks Jeff
 
????

what are pros and cons of setting the timing 13-14 deg advanced? why wouldn't you set it IAW the FSM? i'm getting ready to tune-up my 3FE and want to get the best mpg out of it.
 
My 3F ( Not 3FE) is happiest at 12-14 degrees. Most power under foot and thus best consumption.
( I have Petronix ignition - which apparantly requires a bit advanced )

My vacuum guage reads its highest value at about 18degrees - but then pre-ignition can become a problem .
At 7-9 degrees car is very sluggish and poor performance .
 
While I have painted the timing marks on my 3FE, I have not set the timing. How are you guys getting a good look at the marks? it's nearly hidden by all the heater hoses, distributor wires and other stuff in the way.

On my 2Fs, they are most happy running at 10-11 degrees BTDC. I'll be interested to try the same on the 3FE (.3fe!) as it is a slow dog and any increase would be nice. I don't mind retarding it again for the smog test in 2 years.
 

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