Setting rear preload without SST

[perk]

I'll be changing rear axel seals, grease, rotors and pads soon. I'm hoping to avoid purchasing SST for hub nut (assuming they become available again). How difficult is it to set preload using brass drift method? Sounds like it worked fine for Beo, anyone else out there used this technique? Any tips on what the preload should feel like when "doing it by feel"?

Thanks
Perk

 

[Beowulf]

Sounds like it worked fine for Beo, anyone else out there used this technique?

I don't recommend it unless you've done a lot of wheel bearings. I went back in a couple of months later and used the SST. (Thanks Dan!)

There are/were pictures in the archives of several improvised tools that can do the same job. I am certain that Landtoy80 posted pics of his in the thread that I am thinking about. Is there someone you can borrow the SST?

-B-

 

[perk]

Well, not exactly the words of encouragement I was looking for . Making one of these tools seems a bit out of my grasp and 50 bucks for a tool used once every 5 or so years is hard to swallow. Any way to make one of these tools without welding? If these tools really have left the market, maybe now is the time for someone with a lot of wheel bearing experience to give an overly-detailed description of the "doing it by feel method".

Unfortunately, I don't know anyone who works on cruisers. Anybody in the socal area want to lend a helping SST?

Thanks
Perk

 

[OGBeno]

Hey Perk:

If you need the SST, let me know.

I'd be happy to mail it to you and you can use it and mail it back when you're done.

Shoot me a PM if you want.

Best.
-onur
Akron, OH

 

[bjowett]

IMO, the bearings won't know the difference in how the torque is applied. A drift will not hurt anything, use a a drag scale on the lug stud and set to the 6 - 12lb spec. Don't get me wrong, SST's are nice, but sometimes not required.

 

[Rookie2]

IMO, the bearings won't know the difference in how the torque is applied. A drift will not hurt anything, use a a drag scale on the lug stud and set to the 6 - 12lb spec. Don't get me wrong, SST's are nice, but sometimes not required.

Yeh, but you still got to seat the bearings and hub before you back it off and set the preload.

I think it may be hard to apply the torque required to seat the bearings (47 or so ft-lbs IIRC), by trying to pop it with a drift. Maybe if you've done a half dozen or so that way, you could get it close enough.

Take Beno up on his offer, and afterwards, send it back with a fiver for a #6. You just saved a few hundred bucks.


Rookie2

 

[Beast II]

My hub socket hadn't arrived yet and I had to do this in an emergency - just another way of doing it - a very quick and dirty way.

You can use the chisel method. Take a chisel and hammer. Put a couple of noctches on the nuts (careful not to get metal shavings in the housing). Then put the tip of the chisel in the notch and tap it lightly counterclockwie to get it off. Check the bearings by feel.