Service questions (1 Viewer)

[ATLcrusher]

I've received a couple quotes for the 90K service (one independent and one dealer); there seems to be a few discrepancies...here are my questions:

1) Do I need to replace the fuel filter? Should it cost $115?
2) Do I need to do the crank seal?
3) Do I need to do idler pulleys?
4) The independent quoted flushing most of the fluids as opposed to just replacing - I'm thinking this is probably a good idea as I don't know the service history of the vehicle (it is in very good shape). There's a pretty big difference in price. Thoughts?
5) Independent quoted "drop pan/clean filter/flush tranny" is this necessary?
6) Independent quoted PCV valve - again is this necessary?

Separately, no shop seems to want to just replace starter contacts, they all want to replace the starter (they don't want to get stuck holding the bag on 5 hours of labor if the starter fails again right away). I've been quoted anywhere from $750-900 (parts and labor) - this seems REALLY high...thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

 

[SWUtah]

I've received a couple quotes for the 90K service (one independent and one dealer); there seems to be a few discrepancies...here are my questions:

1) Do I need to replace the fuel filter? Should it cost $115?
2) Do I need to do the crank seal?
3) Do I need to do idler pulleys?
4) The independent quoted flushing most of the fluids as opposed to just replacing - I'm thinking this is probably a good idea as I don't know the service history of the vehicle (it is in very good shape). There's a pretty big difference in price. Thoughts?
5) Independent quoted "drop pan/clean filter/flush tranny" is this necessary?
6) Independent quoted PCV valve - again is this necessary?

Separately, no shop seems to want to just replace starter contacts, they all want to replace the starter (they don't want to get stuck holding the bag on 5 hours of labor if the starter fails again right away). I've been quoted anywhere from $750-900 (parts and labor) - this seems REALLY high...thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

If you have the "flush" done don't let them put any cleaner in your transmission. This has caused transmission failure. Tell them to just "exchange fluids" You don't want anything but transmission fluid in your transmission. I've alway been told that the fuel filter never needs to be changed unless you got a load of bad fuel. I had 140K on my FZJ80 and never had it changed. PCV Valve should be easy and cheap. When you do the timing belt do all the seals, water pump and pulleys. When you talk about "flushing all the fluids" I would recommend that you just change the fluids, I had my power steering "flushed" in my 95 LC and it leaked when they were done.

 

[Landpimp]

1) no, not yet(forget when, 100k+ ish). No, prolly $30 for the part from Toyota, if I recall its an easy one to access(on inner fender?), might take 10min to change.

2) no, but i did

3) no, but I did(I found some new OEM ones on Ebay for $50 for the pair, so I did em)

4)I would not flush anything but the rad, just drain the trany or drop pan. (I would do a t-stat if they flush the rad, its cheap)

6) its cheap, might as well, I forget when its recomended to change(I have not done mine yet at 95K)

starter, I cant blame them. The intake must come off to replace the starter, that why the high cost, I think the books quotes $800(RR, parts) Me, i would replace with OEM re-man, then rebuild the old one myself. I happened to pick up a new OEM starter for $40 on Ebay.....

I've received a couple quotes for the 90K service (one independent and one dealer); there seems to be a few discrepancies...here are my questions:

1) Do I need to replace the fuel filter? Should it cost $115?
2) Do I need to do the crank seal?
3) Do I need to do idler pulleys?
4) The independent quoted flushing most of the fluids as opposed to just replacing - I'm thinking this is probably a good idea as I don't know the service history of the vehicle (it is in very good shape). There's a pretty big difference in price. Thoughts?
5) Independent quoted "drop pan/clean filter/flush tranny" is this necessary?
6) Independent quoted PCV valve - again is this necessary?

Separately, no shop seems to want to just replace starter contacts, they all want to replace the starter (they don't want to get stuck holding the bag on 5 hours of labor if the starter fails again right away). I've been quoted anywhere from $750-900 (parts and labor) - this seems REALLY high...thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

 

[SINCITY100]

I would have to disagree with the "never" statement regarding the Fuel filter.

Considering that the factory F/F is capable of removing particles down to near-micron size, The filter`s ability to actually flow fuel at the same rate( as new) after 90,000 miles (let alone 140,000 !) is quite unlikely. The other thing is, Genuine Toyota F/F`s have an internal valve that "pops" open if the filter, in fact, plugs up....this by-passes the entire element, thus you get unfiltered fuel going to the injectors...NOT GOOD ! Besides, you would never know if this by-pass is happening..so you keep driving...eventually causing havoc on your injectors.

Change the Fuel filter...It is cheap insurance ! BTW..it is incredibly EASY to change on the 100..it is right there in plain sight on top of the drivers` side fender apron. 15 min install max !

As for Cam/Crank seals...why not? Its already apart for the t-belt, And we ALL know that seals will eventually seep...again, insurance to keep that new T-belt dry for its next (90,000 mi) life !

Perhaps a water pump, whether you need it or not..more insurance...its driven by the t-belt, after all .

Pulleys ?...Nope, they can usually go 200,000-plus mi without incident.

Fluid and flush ?...just drain and refill unless you suspect contamination

 

[NMuzj100]

1) Do I need to replace the fuel filter? Should it cost $115?

No. Several have done so,cut them open and found them to be in near perfect shape after 100K miles in the US.

 

[SINCITY100]

No. Several have done so,cut them open and found them to be in near perfect shape after 100K miles in the US.

Well..if it is in TWO pieces, how can it be "near perfect"..?...

The fact is..you have NO way of knowing how much sediment and debris is in the underground tanks at your local gas station..the fuel system is FAR from sealed on your vehicle (especially when you top off your tank on the trail with a Jerry can or the like) ...35 bucks if you do-it-yourself .. come on !!

Or maybe I am just paranoid......