Sequoia 2nd gen liftgate regulator replacement (1 Viewer)

[Haspin FJ]

In an effort to try and contribute to the most amazing vehicle forum ever which I've used extensively (mostly in the 80 Series forum). Here is a write up for how to replace the liftgate regulator assembly in a 2nd generation Sequoia (2008 Platinum).

My first clue that I had an issue going on was sound like coarse sand moving inside the lift gate when I'd open and close it. This was next followed by the liftgate window going down and not wanting to roll back up. The first time it did it I of course was on a family vacation and luckily by trying to "help" the window back up by pulling on the top while activating the motor was able to get it up and left it that way the rest of the trip. I used if fairly consistently after returning without the same issue again. That was until the night before we were leaving on another family trip with 6 people in the truck so not being able to roll down the window was going to be an extreme inconvenience. I opened up the liftgate the find the tracks that the window slides up and down on looked like they were from a 1988 truck, not a 2008. From what I read this is common on these as the metal the components of this assembly are non coated steel. Probably the worst designed part I've ever seen on my 25 years of owning almost exclusively Toyota and doing 99% of all the work needed on them.

If you don't have a problem yet I would highly advise opening the hatch and coating it with a corrosion inhibitor of your choice as a preventative measure since this is just a poor design choice of metal with all the moisture it is apparently exposed to at the bottom of the assembly. I coated mine in fluid film as mentioned later prior to installing the new regulator.

The issue stopping the window from coming back up was the thin part on the edge of the metal track that had completely rusted away leaving a part so thin it got caught and bent by the moving carriage that the window mounts to and stopping it from going past. I actually removed an inch or so length of that rust edge the fist time I was in and diagnosed the problem to be able to get the window to go up. You can see this area on this picture where the material is missing

It would advise after seeing the issue and researching online that if you have this problem to open it up and at least get the material out of the way and not force it back up. I got lucky but if you break the plastic mounting tabs off of the window you have to replace the whole glass as well.

So onto the write up.

Start by removing the plastic cover from the pull down handle by sliding it upward. Then remove the 10mm bolt and handle.

 

[Haspin FJ]

Next pry upper left and right trim prices off. They have two push clips each. The drivers side on mine has the auto liftgate strut passing through it and I was able to pop the two retainers to get it loose and work around it instead of having to take the strut loose to get it off.

Then pry the main liftgate cover off using a trim tool to pop the push pins and lift off.

 

[Haspin FJ]

I left the window rolled up because I wanted it to be firmly seated in the track however this made removing the bolts that attach it to the regulator quite difficult. If I had to do it again I would leave the hatch fully open and lower the glass to its intended position for removal/installation where you can get to the inner passenger side glass bolt through a hole in the door frame (pictured on the installation portion later in this thread).

Next is to remove the plastic film covering the access opening. I find it easiest to pull on the liner while you chase directly behind it with a sharp razor to cut the tar like sealer and allow you to press it back together to seal it when complete.

After removing the plastic cover, remove the 4 10mm bolts holding the window to the old regulator (2 per side). If you follow my recommendation and lower the glass to the position where the inner passenger glass bolt can be removed through the hole in the frame, you can remove the access panel on the far passenger side (green arrows) to access the outer passenger side bolt which was extremely difficult to access in the fully closed position.

At this point the glass is loose from the regulator and can be carefully pushed to the fully up/closed position to allow for removal of the old regulator. Keep the weight off the glass so it doesn't scratch the defroster wires on any sharp parts while moving it.

 

[Haspin FJ]

Next loosen the bolts holding the regulator rails and motor to the door frame, disconnect the wire harness from the motor, release the wire ties holding the motor harness to the body and defroster wire to the top of the driver side rail ,and remove the old regulator assembly. I started by removing the passenger side portion first followed by the drivers side.

 

[Haspin FJ]

Next is to install the new regulator, pretty much in reverse order. I decided to clean out the lift gate cavity as well as I could and cover the new regulator assembly and lower interior of the gate with fluid film in an attempt to stop the rust. I thought of painting it but it would wear off on the area that caused the problem so well see how this works when I check it in a year or two.

Installation:

Insert the regulators in the same order and position as when removed. Reinstall the mounting screws holding both sides of the regulator to the liftgate frame. Mine came set in the lowered position pictured here and mentioned earlier where the glass mounting screws are properly accessible (pictured below).

Slide the glass back down to the proper position where the holes in the glass line up with the holes in the regulator and reinstall the glass mounting bolts. I didn't have any torque values so used my experience to tighten them appropriately for 10 year old plastic being sandwhiched (good and snug but not too tight).

 

[Haspin FJ]

Next reinstall the wire clips, plug the motor harness back in, and reinstall the plastic access opening film.

Reinstall the back hatch cover by dropping the lip across the top over the top of the liftgate, position it until the push clips line up and push the panel to snap the clips back in. Re attach the upper corner trim covers. Reinstall the pull handle and plastic cover.

Once this was completed my rear latch lock would not operate. I wound up removing and troubleshooting the lock assembly and everything on the latch worked properly when hooked directly to power but there was no power to the latch from the harness. I did this because I had washed out the hatch in the upright position and had a decent amount of water around the latch during that process (if I did this again I would remove the power lock mechanism before I hosed that area out). Not making sense that there would be no power to the harness I disconnected the negative on the battery for several minutes. This seemed to work to reset the issue and the latch worked properly after this reset.

Hope this helps for those that this undoubtedly will become an issue for in the future as I drove several states away to find a clean used Sequoia several moths ago and this is the only part on this truck with rust anything like this developing on it.

 

[PZLCruiser]

thanks for the write up! I need to replace mine already. 2011 Gen 2. Is the rear door window regulator the same as on a Forerunner possibly? Im seeing part number 698500C062 or 698500C060, both out of stock or over priced at other sources. Anyone know if other options exist?

 

[PZLCruiser]

So upon further research part number 698500C062 or 698500C060 only applies to Sequoias 08-21. Not compatible with Tundra or Forerunner rear door window regulators.

Toyota Parts Website States:
This product fits 97 vehicle variants.
Toyota: 1 models, 97 variants between 2008 and 2021

Im just going to order. $238 + s is the best I can find at the moment. I do see it for far less but out of stock unfortunately.

 

[JakeTheSnakeNH]

Great write-up! I used it to swap my regulator out a few weeks ago. Looked like the same failure mode.

 

[94landcruiser]

Thanks for the write up, I WANT to replace my chrome SEQUOIA badge with a black one (230.00????) as I hate chrome and could not find any write ups on getting inside the door. (slew of 1st gen info) Crazy with all the Sequoia forums I had to come to mud, but just goes to show how great mud is!

Thank you!

 

[Farnsrocket]

Thanks for the write up, I WANT to replace my chrome SEQUOIA badge with a black one (230.00????) as I hate chrome and could not find any write ups on getting inside the door. (slew of 1st gen info) Crazy with all the Sequoia forums I had to come to mud, but just goes to show how great mud is!

Thank you!

Just plasti-dip it!

Great write up!!!

 

[erkme73]

What a great post - even 5 years later. I just registered to thank the OP. My 2011 has been getting slower and slower on the up direction. In fact, it was binding enough that the auto-up no longer worked and I'd have to bump it up a little at a time with the switch. I found that if I had the tailgate fully open, there was less downward force on the motor, and it would still go up. No more this evening. Had to drive 3 miles on a crush-and-run gravel road at 2 mph to avoid filling the Sequoia with dust (even then everything is still covered).

I attempted to pull the window completely out (before finding this post). I got the window free of the regulator - even removing the trim and seal - but finally gave up as I could not get the window out without risking damaging the defrost lines or shattering the glass. I cannot imagine how one would go to replace a broken window.

When I got stuck, I searched Goog and found this thread. What a blessing. I'll give it another try tomorrow.

But here's what I wanted to ask the OP... Have you had any recurrence? Have you had a chance to look in the panel again? And, how bad was the interior of your door? How did you get it cleaned out? Mine probably has 10 lbs. of road dust from our gravel roads. It's chokingly bad. There is no doubt that's what caused my failure. The tracks got so coated with dry powder, the friction just overpowered the motor.

 

[erkme73]

just a quick update. I did pull the regulator yesterday and discovered that there was practically no rust. However, the bottom pulleys and cable sheathes were so caked in dust mixed with whatever lube the factory used, that there were nearly impossible to move. I completely disassembled the regulator assembly, even the motor gearbox. With brake cleaner and elbow grease, I got all the moving parts spinning, sliding, and slipping freely. Getting the cable back onto the drive pulley was a challenge but very possible (hook up everything as it should be with cable not routed through the top two pulleys - then rotate the pulleys to pull the cable back into their grooves). Everything slides like butter now. I lubed with white lithium grease, which I'm sure will last all of a few weeks before the buildup of gravel dust locks everything down again. I wish there was a better way to seal the interior, but with the exterior window seal/trim being dynamic, that'll likely never be the case.

On an aside, given the reports of rust, I ordered a replacement regulator assembly ($300) from an eBay Toyota dealer before I started the teardown. Turns out I really didn't need it. I'll put it on the shelf in the barn for now, but can't see myself ever using it if the problem is limited to debris and not rust.

Finally, I do have one issue. Now, when I roll the window all the way up using that auto-up feature, it completely closes, but then bumps back down electrically about 1" - leaving an open gap in the window. This is easily overcome but just putting the window up manually and stopping when it gets to the fully closed position. I suspect the auto up is exceeding the stop limit/current value and thinks something is keeping it from closing. Is there a calibration/reset process by which the control module will relearn the upper limit? It could also be that I rewound the cabling just a little too tight. Originally the two springs at the motor gear box were not fully compressed. After the rebulid they're almost completely compressed.

 

[erkme73]

So I haven't revisited the issue with the window not closing completely with the auto function (It pulls back an inch if I try). I figured it was related to the lack of slack on the cabling but was too unmotivated to disassemble everything. But then, I discovered that my rear wiper is disabled.

I don't recall disconnecting the wiper assembly electrically, so I have to assume the window module computer is not registering the window position as closed. In the past if the window was anything other than completely shut, the wiper wouldn't activate.

So, my question now is, has anyone experienced this type of issue before? The new window regulator assembly has arrived, so maybe I should just bite the bullet and replace it?

 

[erkme73]

Ok, I found a few videos about the window module re-learning the upper set point. Apparently if you run the motor without the regulator/window attached, it clears the upper limit. And I did just that to test the regulator function before installing it back into the hatchback. Should be a simple fix if I can remove the motor from the regulator w/o having to remove the glass or gearbox. Will post back what I find.

 

[erkme73]

That worked! Turns out the suspected lack of play in the springs was not the issue - as they had regained some slack since the initial rebuild. However, me running the motor/regulator assembly without the glass attached definitely reset the upper limits.

I was hopeful that I could just unscrew the motor from the gearbox, as that would let me avoid having to restring the cables. But, unfortunately the three screws that hold the motor to the gearbox refused to budge without stripping. So, I disconnected the glass, and pulled the whole regulator assembly out. On the workbench, I was able to remove the cabling/pully from the gearbox. I then connected the motor to the vehicle. Turning the ignition on, I held the UP switch for 10+ seconds (the motor eventually stops on its own after timing out).

At that point, I returned the motor/gearbox to the rest of the regulator on the bench. It was much easier the second time using vise grips to compress the springs and route the cables over the top pullies. After returning the regulator to the vehicle, reattaching the glass, and reconnecting the cable harness, I went back to the window control on the dash. With the key in the ON position, I ran the window (manually, not auto-up) up to the max closed position and held it for 2-3 seconds. Then I ran it down completely (manually). I repeated this 3 times. Finally, I ran it all the way up with auto, with fingers crossed that it wouldn't bounce back down. It didn't! And, right away, the defroster/wiper started working.

TL;DR - If you run the motor/regulator assembly without the glass attached, be prepared to have to reprogram the upper limits.

 

[duncanidaho210]

I'm about to tackle this repair, but unfortunately, my window is stuck in the fully down position, which is making removing the 4x 10 mm bolts at the bottom... very difficult. I pulled up TIS, and there is nothing in there about making it easier.

Is there a trick to this? Or is it just going to be a PITA until I get it swapped? Based upon the erkme73's posts, it looks like it would be a mistake for me to even try and reinstall the glass in any other position other than fully open.

I tried everything I could think of to get it to move a couple of inches up; by pulling on it while running the motor I can, indeed, get it to move an inch or so, but something is broken in the regulator channel (from what I can see one of the plastic runners has partially disintegrated), and it is darn hard to reach. Was debating unbolting the regulator from the door frame first then trying to undo the glass, but could see about 8 different ways that I could break the window while doing it.

 

[duncanidaho210]

I'm about to tackle this repair, but unfortunately, my window is stuck in the fully down position, which is making removing the 4x 10 mm bolts at the bottom... very difficult. I pulled up TIS, and there is nothing in there about making it easier.

Is there a trick to this? Or is it just going to be a PITA until I get it swapped? Based upon the erkme73's posts, it looks like it would be a mistake for me to even try and reinstall the glass in any other position other than fully open.

I tried everything I could think of to get it to move a couple of inches up; by pulling on it while running the motor I can, indeed, get it to move an inch or so, but something is broken in the regulator channel (from what I can see one of the plastic runners has partially disintegrated), and it is darn hard to reach. Was debating unbolting the regulator from the door frame first then trying to undo the glass, but could see about 8 different ways that I could break the window while doing it.

So, just finished this job. A couple of quick notes:
1. Its incredibly difficult to remove the 10mm bolts from the Window when its fully open. If your window is stuck closed like mine, but the rails aren't completely shattered, you can "release" the window by cutting the cables using bolt cutters. This turned it from an extremely difficult job to an extremely easy job. Once the cables were cut, I was able to easily move the window into the access position to remove the bolts. So happy I cut those bolts.

2. I had the same problem as erkme73, in that when I tried to auto-close the window, it would go up, and then retract for 2 seconds or so. I did not run the motor on the bench, but I assume this is because I removed the regulator in a different position than I installed the new one (which comes in the position correct for bolting hte window into place through the access holes). To reset, I put the car in accessory mode, then ran the window fully open, hold for 5 seconds, fully closed, hold for 5 seconds, for 3 cycles. The key is NOT to use the auto open or close. The driver switch (and apparently the key on the door) have two positions; 1 click for manual open/close, and a second, further click for auto open/close. When you are in manual open/close, you'll hear that the motor keeps "pushing" against the stop for 3-4 seconds after the window stops moving. After doing this, it reset, and I now have a fully functional window again.

 

[4mydogs]

Heck of a writeup. We have two second generation Sequoias so it's just a matter of time . . .

 

[Haspin FJ]

Glad this has helped. Somehow just got notification of the most recent reply and missed those before so apologies.

Mine is still running fine currently. I did clean out amd "fluid film" the interior of the lift gate and exposed metal parts of the new regulator when I installed it in the write up to help slow the corrosion issue but have not been back in to see how everything is looking.