Sequoia 2nd gen liftgate regulator replacement

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Feb 23, 2015
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219
In an effort to try and contribute to the most amazing vehicle forum ever which I've used extensively (mostly in the 80 Series forum). Here is a write up for how to replace the liftgate regulator assembly in a 2nd generation Sequoia (2008 Platinum).

My first clue that I had an issue going on was sound like coarse sand moving inside the lift gate when I'd open and close it. This was next followed by the liftgate window going down and not wanting to roll back up. The first time it did it I of course was on a family vacation and luckily by trying to "help" the window back up by pulling on the top while activating the motor was able to get it up and left it that way the rest of the trip. I used if fairly consistently after returning without the same issue again. That was until the night before we were leaving on another family trip with 6 people in the truck so not being able to roll down the window was going to be an extreme inconvenience. I opened up the liftgate the find the tracks that the window slides up and down on looked like they were from a 1988 truck, not a 2008. From what I read this is common on these as the metal the components of this assembly are non coated steel. Probably the worst designed part I've ever seen on my 25 years of owning almost exclusively Toyota and doing 99% of all the work needed on them.
1977354

If you don't have a problem yet I would highly advise opening the hatch and coating it with a corrosion inhibitor of your choice as a preventative measure since this is just a poor design choice of metal with all the moisture it is apparently exposed to at the bottom of the assembly. I coated mine in fluid film as mentioned later prior to installing the new regulator.

The issue stopping the window from coming back up was the thin part on the edge of the metal track that had completely rusted away leaving a part so thin it got caught and bent by the moving carriage that the window mounts to and stopping it from going past. I actually removed an inch or so length of that rust edge the fist time I was in and diagnosed the problem to be able to get the window to go up. You can see this area on this picture where the material is missing
1977374


It would advise after seeing the issue and researching online that if you have this problem to open it up and at least get the material out of the way and not force it back up. I got lucky but if you break the plastic mounting tabs off of the window you have to replace the whole glass as well.

So onto the write up.

Start by removing the plastic cover from the pull down handle by sliding it upward. Then remove the 10mm bolt and handle.
1977377
 
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Next pry upper left and right trim prices off. They have two push clips each. The drivers side on mine has the auto liftgate strut passing through it and I was able to pop the two retainers to get it loose and work around it instead of having to take the strut loose to get it off.

Then pry the main liftgate cover off using a trim tool to pop the push pins and lift off.

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Joined
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Messages
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I left the window rolled up because I wanted it to be firmly seated in the track however this made removing the bolts that attach it to the regulator quite difficult. If I had to do it again I would leave the hatch fully open and lower the glass to its intended position for removal/installation where you can get to the inner passenger side glass bolt through a hole in the door frame (pictured on the installation portion later in this thread).

Next is to remove the plastic film covering the access opening. I find it easiest to pull on the liner while you chase directly behind it with a sharp razor to cut the tar like sealer and allow you to press it back together to seal it when complete.

After removing the plastic cover, remove the 4 10mm bolts holding the window to the old regulator (2 per side). If you follow my recommendation and lower the glass to the position where the inner passenger glass bolt can be removed through the hole in the frame, you can remove the access panel on the far passenger side (green arrows) to access the outer passenger side bolt which was extremely difficult to access in the fully closed position.

At this point the glass is loose from the regulator and can be carefully pushed to the fully up/closed position to allow for removal of the old regulator. Keep the weight off the glass so it doesn't scratch the defroster wires on any sharp parts while moving it.

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Feb 23, 2015
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Next loosen the bolts holding the regulator rails and motor to the door frame, disconnect the wire harness from the motor, release the wire ties holding the motor harness to the body and defroster wire to the top of the driver side rail ,and remove the old regulator assembly. I started by removing the passenger side portion first followed by the drivers side.

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Joined
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Messages
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Next is to install the new regulator, pretty much in reverse order. I decided to clean out the lift gate cavity as well as I could and cover the new regulator assembly and lower interior of the gate with fluid film in an attempt to stop the rust. I thought of painting it but it would wear off on the area that caused the problem so well see how this works when I check it in a year or two.

Installation:

Insert the regulators in the same order and position as when removed. Reinstall the mounting screws holding both sides of the regulator to the liftgate frame. Mine came set in the lowered position pictured here and mentioned earlier where the glass mounting screws are properly accessible (pictured below).

Slide the glass back down to the proper position where the holes in the glass line up with the holes in the regulator and reinstall the glass mounting bolts. I didn't have any torque values so used my experience to tighten them appropriately for 10 year old plastic being sandwhiched (good and snug but not too tight).

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Joined
Feb 23, 2015
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Next reinstall the wire clips, plug the motor harness back in, and reinstall the plastic access opening film.

Reinstall the back hatch cover by dropping the lip across the top over the top of the liftgate, position it until the push clips line up and push the panel to snap the clips back in. Re attach the upper corner trim covers. Reinstall the pull handle and plastic cover.

Once this was completed my rear latch lock would not operate. I wound up removing and troubleshooting the lock assembly and everything on the latch worked properly when hooked directly to power but there was no power to the latch from the harness. I did this because I had washed out the hatch in the upright position and had a decent amount of water around the latch during that process (if I did this again I would remove the power lock mechanism before I hosed that area out). Not making sense that there would be no power to the harness I disconnected the negative on the battery for several minutes. This seemed to work to reset the issue and the latch worked properly after this reset.

Hope this helps for those that this undoubtedly will become an issue for in the future as I drove several states away to find a clean used Sequoia several moths ago and this is the only part on this truck with rust anything like this developing on it.
 
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