Seized or stiff propshaft splines causing harsh suspension?

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scottmk1

scottmk1

Joined
Sep 17, 2019
Threads
11
Messages
138
Location
Scotland
I've recently changed the suspension on my 79 to Terrain Tamer shocks and springs - parabolic leafs on the rear. The ride is very harsh especially unloaded and I wondered if the sliding splines on the rear propshaft being seized would contribute to this?
The splines are not seized solid, but to remove the shaft I had to remove the grease nipple to allow the grease to vent while compressing the shaft, and even that was tough.
 
Hi Onur, it's a VDJ79 single cab. My thinking was that the length of the prop would change slightly as the rear axle moved up or down, and if it wasn't would possibly be causing problems.
 
scottmk1 said:
Hi Onur, it's a VDJ79 single cab. My thinking was that the length of the prop would change slightly as the rear axle moved up or down, and if it wasn't would possibly be causing problems.
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On a truck like the 79, you really are going to need weight back there to level out the suspension some. Otherwise, it's going to be like riding a billy goat.
 
Yes, that's how it was so I was hoping the parabolics would help a bit with that.
 
Onur is right. These were made to carry half a ton or so in tools and equipment all the time.
IMO , you are better getting a better type of spring. Even under the right circumstances these rears or front do not have a good reputation.
The mining companies remove the suspension before delivery because it doesnt last long.
And in regards to the splines, I cant imagine them seizing to the point where they wouldnt move due to the suspension compression
 
I have found that the TT shocks are valved stiffly. I would take out the rear shocks and see if that makes a difference. It will be a little bouncy but you will soon know if it's the springs or the shocks. NEVER take the shocks out of the front, or any coil spring setup.
 
Indestructible 47 said:
I have found that the TT shocks are valved stiffly. I would take out the rear shocks and see if that makes a difference. It will be a little bouncy but you will soon know if it's the springs or the shocks. NEVER take the shocks out of the front, or any coil spring setup.
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I'll give that a try, the ones I got are the less stiff version, rather than the firm ones. Part No TGS12492 on the rear.
 
If you have to remove the zerk to install the driveshaft then yes it's bunged up. Also if the zerk spits grease it's bunged up.
Over time if not cleaned you will be changing the pinion seal.
I'm lazy so I remove the zerk and spray Wd40, PB blaster or brake clean into the yoke. Then drive around while she cleans herself out.
Reinstall zero and grease.
A bunged yoke will act like a track adjuster commonly used on construction equipment where you add grease to tighten the tracks. It's called a slip yoke, it needs to move in and out as your vehicle loads and unloads.
 
Squash said:
If you have to remove the zerk to install the driveshaft then yes it's bunged up. Also if the zerk spits grease it's bunged up.
Over time if not cleaned you will be changing the pinion seal.
I'm lazy so I remove the zerk and spray Wd40, PB blaster or brake clean into the yoke. Then drive around while she cleans herself out.
Reinstall zero and grease.
A bunged yoke will act like a track adjuster commonly used on construction equipment where you add grease to tighten the tracks. It's called a slip yoke, it needs to move in and out as your vehicle loads and unloads.
Click to expand...
I did wonder about that kind of effect being caused by it being bunged up, but wasn't sure if it would have any interaction with the suspension.
 
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