Seems glow plugs and wilsons are Hot again

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Just to be sure, Tom and Rudi chime in please, 10.5 volt glow plugs are correct if you use a Wilson switch only.

I have only ever used the Wilson switch, and counting in my head, to glow my B engine and it has served me well for about 30 000 Km. It’s winter here now and the old girl has started complaining about getting up in the mornings, so I took a look at the plugs. They are, sorry, were, 8.5 volts HKT PT-100's.
2 at less than 1ohm seemed to glow OK across the battery, 1 dead and 1 at 5 ohms which got warm but did not glow.
After reading Toms, now famous, post, I guess I am lucky to have gotten so far on 8.5 volts for so long.

Now for one of Rudi's $64 000 questions: has anyone tried the new dual filament, all singing, all dancing, fix all problems, glow plugs?? Genesis GJ121TO, I believe.
Who actually make these?
Any update on the dual filament story in general.
Regards
George
 
Just to be sure, Tom and Rudi chime in please, 10.5 volt glow plugs are correct if you use a Wilson switch only.

I have only ever used the Wilson switch, and counting in my head, to glow my B engine and it has served me well for about 30 000 Km. It’s winter here now and the old girl has started complaining about getting up in the mornings, so I took a look at the plugs. They are, sorry, were, 8.5 volts HKT PT-100's.
2 at less than 1ohm seemed to glow OK across the battery, 1 dead and 1 at 5 ohms which got warm but did not glow.
After reading Toms, now famous, post, I guess I am lucky to have gotten so far on 8.5 volts for so long.

Now for one of Rudi's $64 000 questions: has anyone tried the new dual filament, all singing, all dancing, fix all problems, glow plugs?? Genesis GJ121TO, I believe.
Who actually make these?
Any update on the dual filament story in general.
Regards
George

Here's a link to the GJ121TO plugs so you can see who makes them George:

http://www.etecno1.it/diesel-glow-plug-double-filament-p-331.html

And yes.... I am surprised your 8.5V plugs lasted this long with no Glow Controller in the circuit to drop their supply voltage...

I reckon you should be the guinea pig and try GJ121TO plugs as replacements now?

:beer:
 
If I can get them at a descent price here in "cold in the morning" Sunny South Africa, then yes I am happy to be the guinea pig.

regards
G
 
I dont know if mine are double filament glow plugs, it sounds like at least 5 more horsepower. Bosch mentions duraterm :idea:


2H:24v I have 14V NGK 2188 (Y-197R) and before it had ND 14V 19850-68060

http://www.etecno1.it/info_text.php?info_id=1

DOUBLE FILAMENT GLOW PLUGS
In the last '70s a new innovative technology showed up on the market and changed the diesel glow plugs forever. Untill now the internal coil was made with a single wire, also called monofilament glow plugs, made by nickel. Now Beru, the first and main glow plugs manufacturer developed a new patented concept, they put two serial resistors inside the tube, the first one, called regulation coil, made with a ptc material able to increase its own resistance wgile temperature increase, the second resistor made by an alloy able to to high temperature resistence. The new glow plugs were able of starting up a diesel engine in seven seconds and keep that temperature for longer time then the monofilament models.

I would get GJ118TO for my 2H:

http://www.etecno1.it/diesel-glow-plug-double-filament-p-330.html
 
has the Bosh part number saga been sorted yet.
Which durotherm Bosch plug would be correct for a Wilson switch B engine 12V.

Regards
G
 
This website has the voltages but beware of information error so cross reference:

http://www.tecnocel.org/TCL109.html

type-Volts
BOSCH0250202004 8.5
BOSCH0250202051 7.0
BOSCH0250202052 11.0
BOSCH0250202058 10.5
BOSCH0250202074 11.0
BOSCH0250202079 11.0
BOSCH0250202095 10.5
BOSCH0250202115 12.0
You have a direct 12V factory bypass on/off switch to 4 glowplugs (?)
And because you fire them at the same time they never get 12V (or you must have a huge battery that does not collapse a bit in Voltage while firing 4 glowplugs)
So a 12V would never get full potential, a 13 for sure would never get full potential.
So you go down to 10.5 or 11 as that would get what is left while sharing 12v with the other 3 plugs.
8,5 V started fine (even with two failing ones :whoops: ) note the bypass did not burn all plugs immediately.

So to me it is your decision what to do (winter -30C starts need the max heating you can get, hotter days less important)
I would think 10.5 V can be delivered from your 12V battery while firing four of them, so they would be 100% efficient. (while 110%=burnout/bad)
> but proofen results from others should be better info.

bosch 10.5V =0250202058 = toyota 1985068010
And that is ok for 4,0 and 3,4 liter hj60 and bj60V with normal factory glowsystems, direct system bypass glowing is different because you control the time and intensity of the Voltage (full 100% 12V or what is left of it)

http://www.autopartoo.com/oem/bosch/0250202058bcq.html


The clever factory system to me is that they get 100% out of 8.5V glowplugs and like mine they use 14V in a 24 V system so everything to ensure the plug fires 100% all the time, even when the battery is low the glowplug might reach 100% And leaving some power for the startermotor!

edit: 11 Volt BOSCH 0250202095 is for 3.4 D (BJ70_V, BJ73_) Diesel 3432cc 70kw 95hp 4cil.
http://www.yakarouler.com/reference/bosch/toyota-landcruiser/0250202095,122,895
 
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Yip, as Tom said, the Bosch numbers are a balls up.
I have the 2010 catalog and find the following problems relating to your info.

http://www.tecnocel.org/TCL109.html

type-Volts
BOSCH0250202004 8.5 Correct as per bosch 2010
BOSCH0250202051 7.0 Correct ""
BOSCH0250202052 11.0 Not in 2010 cat, would be ideal??
BOSCH0250202058 10.5 Correct as""
BOSCH0250202074 11.0 Not in 2010 cat
BOSCH0250202079 11.0 Not in 2010 cat
BOSCH0250202095 10.5 Correct but 27mm not 28mm should be OK
BOSCH0250202115 12.0 Listed as 6V in 2010 cat ??

I'll search around for an updated catalog.

I'll probally go for the 11V if I can get them, we seldom go below 0 C here.
 
QUESTION:
Do the factory systems, which ever type, Glow during start up????
In other words, are they glowing while you crank the sucker up? If not, you would lose a bit of heat between glow off and squirting diesel on.. ???
In my setup, the Wilson switch IS the start position of the key, with a separate push button to start. Holding the key in start (glow on) cuts the fuel so starting can’t be done at the same time (rotary pump).
What's the norm here?? Any discussion and suggestions welcome.

Regards
G
 
On my BJ42, the glow plugs do not glow during cranking. I turn my key backwards to glow until I light up the indicator. Once it's lit (about 15 seconds), then I turn the key forwards to start. I also have a Wilson switch, that I think was standard for colder climates. I can use that after start up to smooth the idle if it is really cold (i.e. once the glow plugs cool off from their initial glow).

:cheers:
 

Mine certainly glows while cranking (but I suspect the lowered battery voltage at that time, due to my starter drawing 200+ amperes, would mean my plugs would glow less brightly).

Here you can see the second pull-in coil inside my glow relay (connected top the start terminal of my ignition switch) that's there specifically for "glowing-while-cranking":

Start&GlowWiring.webp


:beer:

Start&GlowWiring.webp
 
Just to be sure, Tom and Rudi chime in please, 10.5 volt glow plugs are correct if you use a Wilson switch only.

Now for one of Rudi's $64 000 questions: has anyone tried the new dual filament, all singing, all dancing, fix all problems, glow plugs?? Genesis GJ121TO, I believe.
Who actually make these?
Any update on the dual filament story in general.
Regards
George

On my search for new glow plugs here in Costa Rica, I could only find EIKO GT-208 8.5V plugs. I'm very happy with them but...... there is always a but.
These "new" plugs are also "new technology" plugs. They are energy savers, in other words; they use less current. That's fine with me and probably everybody else but not when you have a glow controller and you are waiting for the "glow" moment.
The old plugs use 10Amps each x 4 = 40Amps.
The new plugs use 8Amps each x 4 = 32Amps which is not enough to lit up my glow controller. So I count till 9 (that's enough for here in the tropics) and it will fire up nicely.

QUESTION:
Do the factory systems, which ever type, Glow during start up????
In other words, are they glowing while you crank the sucker up? If not, you would lose a bit of heat between glow off and squirting diesel on.. ???
In my setup, the Wilson switch IS the start position of the key, with a separate push button to start. Holding the key in start (glow on) cuts the fuel so starting can’t be done at the same time (rotary pump).
What's the norm here?? Any discussion and suggestions welcome.

Regards
G

On my '78 BJ40 the glow circuit is activated while cranking. There is a split second interruption when I turn the key from glow to start.

EDIT: Question..... why do you have that "funny" glow/start set up?
Is the Wilson switch only active when the key is in the start position or....?
Can't you rewire the Wilson switch directly to the battery?

Rudi
 
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Cheers Rudi and Tom
My system was far from perfect, BUT with my new PT 145's and my new found knowledge ( mud, take a bow) I will redo the system to enable me to give her some afterglow and glow during cranking. Easy enough as you say.

Thanks again
 

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