Finally! I did it!
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser 80
I actually pulled out my shredded DS seatbelt and pulled the 3rd row seatbelt asssembly and swapped the third BELT and BUCKLE into the Driver's position. My 1st DS belt was shredded by my PO and it never got any better while I used it.
Overview and observations:
1) Pulled out the 1st DS belt and assembly.
2) Pulled out the 3rd DS belt and assembly.
3) Buckles are different between the two but the buckle on the 3rd belt works in the 1st DS receiver.
4) Retractors MUST be installed in the SAME PLACE THEY CAME OUT OF.
5) I swapped the WEBBING and BUCKLES ONLY.
6) The webbing on the 3rd DS is about 6" SHORTER than the 1st DS. (Doesn't seem like much, but I can't reach the glove box without unbuckling anymore, but I'm 6'-1" and fat.)
7) Time required: about 2 hours of concentrated time. (does not include standard step 6.)
8) The buckle on the 1st DS is a double slip-thru design that "locks" the buckle into the same position on the belt.
9) The buckle on the 3rd DS is a SINGLE slip-thru design that slides the length of the belt. (My old 1980 Corolla used a buckle like this)
10) The retainer clip on the bottom of the 1st DS SWIVELS on the bolt when it it installed and tight because the bolt and bushing slide through the hole in the clip.
11) Using the 3rd DS belt in the 1st DS position will remove the swivel action of that belt UNLESS you choose to drill out the hole in the clip. I chose NOT to because I view this as a TEMPORARY-PERMANENT solution. (I am still planning on having the correct 1st DS belt remade or buy one that is good and reinstalling it. This is so I can still wear a seatbelt while I do that search.
12) Tools Required:
A) 14MM 6 point shallow socket, 1/2" drive
B) 1/2" drive ratchet
C) 10 MM deep well 6 point socket, 1/4" drive
D) 1/4" drive ratchet
E) (2) Screwdriver, straight, flat, about 1/4" wide and 6" long shank
F) Pliers, 8"
G) Pliers, 4"
H) Soft face and handled hammer (small) (I didn't have a small one so I used the handle of my
1-1/2 LB no-bounce soft faced hammer)
I) Pliers, needle-nose, 6"
J) (1) Screwdriver, straight, flat, about 5/16" wide and 6" long shank, heavy duty
K) Dental pick with curve tip or crochet-type hook on the end
L) Hammer, Sledge, 8 Lb (or more)
M) (2) Wire, bare copper or whatever, about 10" OAL, 14 ga. or lower number
N) (1) Gallon freezer Ziploc bag
O) Sharpie fine point marker
P) Headlight
Q) Preferred Beverage for Step #6.
13) I did NOT get pictures of the initial disassembly of everything, so I will use pictures I took after the fact and describe what you need to do.
14) I would consider this a
job.
I will post more pics as I get time. I don't get much time to organize and write this stuff, so don't flame me for not getting it all done at once.
TOOLS NEEDED:
BUCKLE COMPARISON: TOP IS 3rd DS, BOTTOM IS 1st DS.
1st DS SHREDDED BELT:
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser 80
I actually pulled out my shredded DS seatbelt and pulled the 3rd row seatbelt asssembly and swapped the third BELT and BUCKLE into the Driver's position. My 1st DS belt was shredded by my PO and it never got any better while I used it.
Overview and observations:
1) Pulled out the 1st DS belt and assembly.
2) Pulled out the 3rd DS belt and assembly.
3) Buckles are different between the two but the buckle on the 3rd belt works in the 1st DS receiver.
4) Retractors MUST be installed in the SAME PLACE THEY CAME OUT OF.
5) I swapped the WEBBING and BUCKLES ONLY.
6) The webbing on the 3rd DS is about 6" SHORTER than the 1st DS. (Doesn't seem like much, but I can't reach the glove box without unbuckling anymore, but I'm 6'-1" and fat.)
7) Time required: about 2 hours of concentrated time. (does not include standard step 6.)
8) The buckle on the 1st DS is a double slip-thru design that "locks" the buckle into the same position on the belt.
9) The buckle on the 3rd DS is a SINGLE slip-thru design that slides the length of the belt. (My old 1980 Corolla used a buckle like this)
10) The retainer clip on the bottom of the 1st DS SWIVELS on the bolt when it it installed and tight because the bolt and bushing slide through the hole in the clip.
11) Using the 3rd DS belt in the 1st DS position will remove the swivel action of that belt UNLESS you choose to drill out the hole in the clip. I chose NOT to because I view this as a TEMPORARY-PERMANENT solution. (I am still planning on having the correct 1st DS belt remade or buy one that is good and reinstalling it. This is so I can still wear a seatbelt while I do that search.
12) Tools Required:
A) 14MM 6 point shallow socket, 1/2" drive
B) 1/2" drive ratchet
C) 10 MM deep well 6 point socket, 1/4" drive
D) 1/4" drive ratchet
E) (2) Screwdriver, straight, flat, about 1/4" wide and 6" long shank
F) Pliers, 8"
G) Pliers, 4"
H) Soft face and handled hammer (small) (I didn't have a small one so I used the handle of my
1-1/2 LB no-bounce soft faced hammer)
I) Pliers, needle-nose, 6"
J) (1) Screwdriver, straight, flat, about 5/16" wide and 6" long shank, heavy duty
K) Dental pick with curve tip or crochet-type hook on the end
L) Hammer, Sledge, 8 Lb (or more)
M) (2) Wire, bare copper or whatever, about 10" OAL, 14 ga. or lower number
N) (1) Gallon freezer Ziploc bag
O) Sharpie fine point marker
P) Headlight
Q) Preferred Beverage for Step #6.
13) I did NOT get pictures of the initial disassembly of everything, so I will use pictures I took after the fact and describe what you need to do.
14) I would consider this a
job.I will post more pics as I get time. I don't get much time to organize and write this stuff, so don't flame me for not getting it all done at once.
TOOLS NEEDED:
BUCKLE COMPARISON: TOP IS 3rd DS, BOTTOM IS 1st DS.
1st DS SHREDDED BELT:
