Sealing Bead Locks........

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I searched and read most of the info available. I'm looking for additional pointers on how to get the bead locks to seal.

I have 15X8 steelies with Ruff Stuff's kit welded in. I mounted 37X12.5 MT/Rs on them. Two hold air to 25 lbs, two were totally flat this morning. It's not a leak from welding the ring in.

What else can I do? I have a big run this weekend, so I'm looking for quick tips right now, but I'll tear them completely apart after the run if need be. I have OBA, so at least I can air them up during the run if they're flat. :cheers:
 

Josie'sLandCruiser

Stop calling it a "FJ."
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Hi All:

The tire shops (sure as Les Schwab) use a sealant on the bead area of the wheel when mounting tube-less tires. IIRC I saw this stuff listed in a Grainger catalog in the tire equipment section.

Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

Alan
 
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I put a realllllllllly small layer of slime green on the bead of the tire befor i mounted them and i havent had them leak. but then agian. i havent had time to wheel with the new slime green stuff. before that i never use anything
 

Mace

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a light coat of silicone will help (install the rims then wait for 24 hrs before you inflate them.

But honestly, I bet your welds are leaking
 
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X2 on the welds.....pin holes are very common in DIY beadlocks that I have seen.

The ultimate solution..................................STAUNS baby:D
 

Eskimo

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i smeared black sillycone around the weld on mine (unbolted the beadlock ring and smear it all over).. then air it up, wait a few minutes, then let the air out.

Worked like a champ for me.. I think airing up pushed the silicone into the pinholes, then it dried..

Try some soapy water and you can pinpoint the leak easier..
 
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The ultimate solution..................................STAUNS baby:D

I have STAUNS in another set of rims wrapped with TSL/SXs. The only complaint I have is the amount of time required to air down. The stauns cover the valve stem and I haven't torn them down to put a small air channel in to help. Since I trailer my '40 most times, it usually isnt' that big of a deal, I just pull the valve core 24 hours in advance. After they're totally flat, I air them up to 5 psi.



Thanks for the input, everyone. I'll try the silicon route after this weekend! I'll probably try the green slime until then. I'll let you know how it works out! :cheers:
 
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Take a flapper wheel and grind the welds down smooth. If there are any low spots weld more and flapper it again until they are flat and smooth. THen take the outer ring and bevel the outside edge of the ring on the inside lip so that it doesn't cut into your tire when it's folded over . We have done multiple sets of weld ons and had no leakers with this technique . If you have to use silicone then you have done something wrong.
 
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Take a flapper wheel and grind the welds down smooth. If there are any low spots weld more and flapper it again until they are flat and smooth. THen take the outer ring and bevel the outside edge of the ring on the inside lip so that it doesn't cut into your tire when it's folded over . We have done multiple sets of weld ons and had no leakers with this technique . If you have to use silicone then you have done something wrong.

You're supposed to grind down the welds? Crap. :eek:


































Just kidding. :D That's basically what I did. :cheers:
 
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NOOB question alert

Are the inner and outer beadlock rings supposed to be touching or not? I didn't think they were supposed to be smashed together, but I've seen 3 or 4 sets now that are touching, so I don't know. :confused:
 

Mace

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weld on's are not supposed to touch..

You would have to pinch the living crap out of the bead for them to touch.

Also, torque is only like 25 ft lbs..
 
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weld on's are not supposed to touch..

You would have to pinch the living crap out of the bead for them to touch.

Also, torque is only like 25 ft lbs..

That's what I figured. So am I correct in assuming that some 'factory bead locks' will touch?
 
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We had the same problem with the ones we built for my 40. Two held two leaked. We took them apart this weekend and there were small hairline cracks in the weld, I assume this was from grinding the welds down a little to far. Jason cleaned them up and then added another weld all the way around, using a flapper disk, he smoothed out the new weld instead of grinding it down. We torqued all the bolts to 15 lbs., aired it up to about 20lbs, then retorqued to 20lbs. As of this morning everything is holding great!
 

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