seems like just about every time i install a metal/rubber seal, such as the transfer case parking drum seal i just f-ed, i end up redoing it either right away or very soon. i use a 1 lb plastic 2" flat face hammer and try very carefully to install gently and evenly. what am i doing wrong?
seal intallation 101. school me.
- Thread starter bigbadshawn
- Start date
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It is a knack man; it is something that is learned by doing it, over and over and over again.
There really are not any magic tricks to get the seal properly fitted into a bore.
x2 try geting it started evenly with light little taps
inkpot
SILVER Star
Howdy! Couple of my tricks are to lube up the seal and the seat your putting it into. Just a light coat of anything will do. Find a socket/board/piece of steel scrap/whatever, that is big enough to cover the OD of the seal, and has a hole in the center to clear the output shaft. Then lightly tap the seal in. Works pretty good on bearing races also. John
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
1) remove the speedo extension housing
2) fill cavity in new seal with grease so the spring can't pop out when you install it
3) using a seal driver and a hammer, smack that baby in
4) install ext housing along with new gasket and be done with it
fwiw, most of the time when you're dealing with a leaking rear t-case seal, it's caused by a groove worn into the mating surface on the parking brake drum or pitting due to rust on the same surface. time for a speedy-sleeve or better yet, a new parking brake drum. or at least a good used one........
plan B:
if you do not want to remove the speedo housing, then use a large socket to drive the seal in. tapping your way around the outside with a hammer is a great way to F up a few seals in a hurry................
2) fill cavity in new seal with grease so the spring can't pop out when you install it
3) using a seal driver and a hammer, smack that baby in
4) install ext housing along with new gasket and be done with it
fwiw, most of the time when you're dealing with a leaking rear t-case seal, it's caused by a groove worn into the mating surface on the parking brake drum or pitting due to rust on the same surface. time for a speedy-sleeve or better yet, a new parking brake drum. or at least a good used one........
plan B:
if you do not want to remove the speedo housing, then use a large socket to drive the seal in. tapping your way around the outside with a hammer is a great way to F up a few seals in a hurry................
- Thread starter
- #6
good tips. i think that using a hammer alone is not a reliable technique because inevitably i strike the seal on a bit of an angle, with the edge of the hammer face, and dent the seal. i will hit something that covers the outside diameter of the seal, where the most strength is. a chunk of 2x4 should work nicely. i knew this seal was a bit dented when i put it in, but i was too lazy and cheap and irritated to go back to the parts supply for another. now i'm eating humble pie as i head back under the truck with my wrenches. 
spotcruiser
Geezer
Most of the time, the outer-most machined edge around a seal bore will be very sharp. I find it helps to soften that egde a little with a needle file prior to installing the seal.
You really can't go wrong using some sort of a seal driver. A large socket will work but aluminum seal driver's are the way to go. I picked up a set with like 9 or 10 different sized from harbor freight for about $40. I've used them on axles, knuckles, pinion's, etc., and never had a problem getting them installed. Plus they work on bearing race's if you have to replace any.
I have a seal driver kit from HF, but it is plastic rather than aluminum. I'll be giving it a try soon.
I do have one opinion on using a piece of wood on a bearing race......
I just screwed up the one of my rear axle bearings doing this. The wood "gave" enough, that it bent the ring that holds the bearings in
.
Have a PM in for CDan now to get another in addition to some other parts.
No more wood for me. On the other side, I used the old bearing race and cut a section out of it so it would come back out more easily.
I do have one opinion on using a piece of wood on a bearing race......
I just screwed up the one of my rear axle bearings doing this. The wood "gave" enough, that it bent the ring that holds the bearings in
. Have a PM in for CDan now to get another in addition to some other parts.
No more wood for me. On the other side, I used the old bearing race and cut a section out of it so it would come back out more easily.
- Thread starter
- #11
so i got a hold of an OEM seal today for my extension housing. now that is a well made seal. way better put together than that crap skf thing i tried the first time. went in well and holds oil like it should. i'll never use anything but OEM seals again. lesson learned... the hard way... again...
Or have the housing machined for the dual seal conversion?
