SBC 350 questions

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Anybody have any SBC 350 part laying around you want to get out of the way? Specifically, I'm looking for a cam, lifters, double roller timing chain and gears, any/all accessories and brackets.
 
Like rice mentioned I have a few parts but none on that list specifically. New zz4 intake manifold, new headers (over the frame I believe) , used Holley street avenger. I’ll look around for what else may be lingering but probably used stuff you’d want to buy new.
 
Anybody have any SBC 350 part laying around you want to get out of the way? Specifically, I'm looking for a cam, lifters, double roller timing chain and gears, any/all accessories and brackets.


Which 350, just a gen1??

I'd say any junkyard but 350 parts are so cheap brand new I would waste my time on it.

You're about 4 years too late gave my Chevy parts stash to a Charlotte friend.
 
Anybody have any SBC 350 part laying around you want to get out of the way? Specifically, I'm looking for a cam, lifters, double roller timing chain and gears, any/all accessories and brackets.

Post up the engine block casting number so we know what we are dealing with.
 
Which 350, just a gen1??

I'd say any junkyard but 350 parts are so cheap brand new I would waste my time on it.

You're about 4 years too late gave my Chevy parts stash to a Charlotte friend.
Yes, a 4-bolt main out of a 76’ truck (cast#3970010). I’ll be hitting the junkyard, but just seeing if anyone has anything they’d like to move.
 
Nothing wrong with an 010 block. 1976 heads are another story ... thin castings and built for zero performance (170 HP when equipped with a 4 barrel). It can be pulled up to about 300 HP with little effort but needs heads to go above that. Head rebuilds are not cheap so a new set off the shelf can be equal money but more horses.
 
Get a set of vortec heads off of a 96-99 truck.
Get a vortec compatable intake.
 
Get a set of vortec heads off of a 96-99 truck.
Get a vortec compatable intake.

That's what I was thinking, just hadn't looked to see what truck years would be good donors. I got an Edelbrock dual plane manifold with the engine. Gonna check it next.

Random question since I'm still learning.... after mixing and matching parts for a "semi-custom" engine build, how do I know where my redline is?
 
That's what I was thinking, just hadn't looked to see what truck years would be good donors. I got an Edelbrock dual plane manifold with the engine. Gonna check it next.

Random question since I'm still learning.... after mixing and matching parts for a "semi-custom" engine build, how do I know where my redline is?

I suggest no. Again, if heads come off of a 20+ year old truck there is a better-than-average chance you're in for decking, magnaflux, valve grind, and maybe new guides. Vortec heads, yes. But for $360 each at Summit you can get fully assembled bolt on horsepower.
 
Ok...changed the title of the thread since it has taken a new direction.

This swap isn't necessary, it's just a project for me to learn and practice different things and try ideas. I'm fine with it evolving over time. I'm also trying to keep the initial price tag down since it's basically for fun. For the sake of argument, let's say that any HP/torque that is at least equal to the 2F is acceptable.

With a dual plane intake manifold (Edelbrock 7101; not vortec compatible; what I have on hand), the stock 882 heads, Comp Cam Xtreme 4x4 206/214 Hydraulic Flat Cam, and a set of headers, roughly what kind of HP/torque numbers could I be looking at (either the info isn't really out there or I'm not searching the right things)?

Down the road I could eventually upgrade to a roller cam/lifter set and the summit heads.

As for the 882 heads...yep, all over the internet about less than optimal performance, thin casting prevents much modification, and cracking. How much of that is because the vast majority of guys building 350s are going down the racing/performance route? I'm talking about using it in a LC specifically for road trips into the woods with the kids and (I hate the term; used to just call it camping) "overloading" type trips.
 
Ok...changed the title of the thread since it has taken a new direction.

This swap isn't necessary, it's just a project for me to learn and practice different things and try ideas. I'm fine with it evolving over time. I'm also trying to keep the initial price tag down since it's basically for fun. For the sake of argument, let's say that any HP/torque that is at least equal to the 2F is acceptable.

With a dual plane intake manifold (Edelbrock 7101; not vortec compatible; what I have on hand), the stock 882 heads, Comp Cam Xtreme 4x4 206/214 Hydraulic Flat Cam, and a set of headers, roughly what kind of HP/torque numbers could I be looking at (either the info isn't really out there or I'm not searching the right things)?

Down the road I could eventually upgrade to a roller cam/lifter set and the summit heads.

As for the 882 heads...yep, all over the internet about less than optimal performance, thin casting prevents much modification, and cracking. How much of that is because the vast majority of guys building 350s are going down the racing/performance route? I'm talking about using it in a LC specifically for road trips into the woods with the kids and (I hate the term; used to just call it camping) "overloading" type trips.
For what you want that will work, budget builds and using what you got is always great.
What Rice said is very true though, rebuilding heads isn't cheap really so getting ones new unless you know the used ones are good is normally the way to go these days.

Thinking again about this last night if you do want to upgrade it may just be more prudent to get a junkyard 5.3 LS motor. You can get a carb'd intake for it so you don't have to worry about wiring. It is a little more work than a GenI but not a ton and the power potential is just that much better.

We carb'd an LS1 for my buddies 68 camaro a few years back because he didn't want to deal with the wiring.

The 882 heads aren't great for performance but should be ok with that build. The egr design on them combined with the thin casting had a lot to do with the cracking at stock power levels so make sure you ditch that and plug the ports up.
 
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