Yup, tractor not hot rod. Looks good.
"Rusty Rockers" BJ74 Daily. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter PeeZed
- Start date
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GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
@PeeZed Good work, nice to see it running again! Regarding power, do you have a pyro and boost gauge yet? You can gain a lot just with a bit of tuning, but you need those gauges!
No need for intercooler yet. What is factory boost on that motor? 8psi? You can run the CT26 at 12-14psi without an intercooler just fine. I'm not familiar with the inline pumps, but I'd think it'll continue boost compensation easily to 12-14psi. This means you could make quite a bit more power without a lot of effort.
No need for intercooler yet. What is factory boost on that motor? 8psi? You can run the CT26 at 12-14psi without an intercooler just fine. I'm not familiar with the inline pumps, but I'd think it'll continue boost compensation easily to 12-14psi. This means you could make quite a bit more power without a lot of effort.
Was just thinking about this as I was driving to work, would that not work the other way around?
Air pressure from the manifold opens the waste gate....the spring is what holds it closed, no?
I'm operating on very little sleep and have been fighting with pneumatic fire damper actuators all week so I could have my s*** bassackwards.
- Thread starter
- #124
Was just thinking about this as I was driving to work, would that not work the other way around?
Air pressure from the manifold opens the waste gate....the spring is what holds it closed, no?
I'm operating on very little sleep and have been fighting with pneumatic fire damper actuators all week so I could have my s*** bassackwards.
@seapotato, you are correct. When I say I blew into it and it stops I don’t mean that with enough pressure it doesn’t open (with enough pressure against the spring)...but rather that it will hold pressure below the normal amount of 8psi.
The original Wastegate I could blow into it and it didn’t take 8psi to open...it was just letting the air out of the seal, thus requiring even more pressure to overcome that leak in order to open the Wastegate (overcome the spring).
Or am I actually completely misunderstanding how my Wastegate works? Because that is entirely possible
Well, you might be, cuz, one of these things is not like the other....just sayin
@seapotato, thus requiring even more pressure to overcome that leak in order to open the Wastegate (overcome the spring).
Or am I actually completely misunderstanding how my Wastegate works? Because that is entirely possible
It's early tho, so I haven't had the full pot of coffee yet
Assuming the spring part of the old one wasn't weak , it should still have held the actual flap itself shut well above 10 psi.
I bumped my boost up to 12 or 13 psi or so with one of those little adjusters you put in the manifold pressure line. Pretty sure I'd have the same actuator as you. Both ct26's, both set to under 10 psi from the factory.
Still that same spring holding it shut, I've just basically kinked the airline that supplies it and gets it to open.
Which is pretty much the same condition as a torn actuator diaphragm or leak, only not as extreme.
So saying that, I'd guess you had a lot more boost before and now it's actually opening at 8 psi... do your little red and green lights work?
My green one does, but I've never seen the red one come on. I think the red is supposed to come on at 15? Could be wrong on that...
I don't think you have a boost gauge do you? Any pressure gauge will work for testing. Oil filled ones are a bit slow tho.
I should probably have more coffee before hitting reply in case I'm completely out to lunch, but ****it.
- Thread starter
- #126
Well, you might be, cuz, one of these things is not like the other....just sayin
It's early tho, so I haven't had the full pot of coffee yet
Assuming the spring part of the old one wasn't weak , it should still have held the actual flap itself shut well above 10 psi.
I bumped my boost up to 12 or 13 psi or so with one of those little adjusters you put in the manifold pressure line. Pretty sure I'd have the same actuator as you. Both ct26's, both set to under 10 psi from the factory.
Still that same spring holding it shut, I've just basically kinked the airline that supplies it and gets it to open.
Which is pretty much the same condition as a torn actuator diaphragm or leak, only not as extreme.
So saying that, I'd guess you had a lot more boost before and now it's actually opening at 8 psi... do your little red and green lights work?
My green one does, but I've never seen the red one come on. I think the red is supposed to come on at 15? Could be wrong on that...
I don't think you have a boost gauge do you? Any pressure gauge will work for testing. Oil filled ones are a bit slow tho.
I should probably have more coffee before hitting reply in case I'm completely out to lunch, but f***it.
Yeah. So. A couple things.
1. The Original Wastegate spring did work. It held the flapper shut. But if I blow into the intake side with my mouth, it would just leak through the Wastegate. Now, when I put shop air into that line with a regulator, the Wastegate would leak horribly until about 10psi and then the actuator would start to work, sometimes sealing the leak and other times still leaking. Kind of weird. Obviously something internally was amiss.
2. I had installed washers behind the mounting bolts which then pulled my actuator arm tighter to try and get more boost. When WOT up a hill in 3rd (auto) I would get the orange light at around 3000rpm. Adding the washers got the orange light to come on. FSM says that’s 14psi boost.
So, I think I may have been making some decent boost previously, and likely had a functioning actuator, but with the additional leakage at the Wastegate, the exhaust manifold leaks, and the extra washers keeping my dump flap closed for longer, I probably created an over posting situation which may have contributed to the head gasket issue (although I couldn’t see any obvious points of exit on the HG once removed).
Sigh.
I want more power but now I’m afraid :-(
Ha, all I saw was 3000 rpm...damn dude you're hardcore
These engines should take 15 psi all day long. It’s possible to get GTurbo for 13BT as well
as 12HT. Four cylinders seem to have head heating issues, head gasket issues. Seem to see
it far more than straight 6’s. How is your cooling system? Is it all good, did it drain clear or were
you getting lots of crap. Water pump okay too?
Since you didn’t answer Seapotato, I guess you don’t have a boost gauge?
as 12HT. Four cylinders seem to have head heating issues, head gasket issues. Seem to see
it far more than straight 6’s. How is your cooling system? Is it all good, did it drain clear or were
you getting lots of crap. Water pump okay too?
Since you didn’t answer Seapotato, I guess you don’t have a boost gauge?
I was browsing that Mamba site. Looks like pretty nice stuff. My waste gate actuator is a rusty mess, tempted to get one too. Didn't see 12ht listed but the 13bt would probably fit me.
I'm off for a couple weeks now, I have a long list for the 40 thing, but I plan to spend a day or two on the 60.
I have a really annoying rattle I can't figure out.
Only in higher gears at light throttle in the 2k rpm range on the highway. And not every time either.
Can't recreate it in the driveway, or even on my road.
Just a certain frequency...but I wonder if it's my waste gate rattling as it opens slightly.
Doesn't seem to relate to boost level tho.
More to a slight load, which is hard to do in the driveway. No freaking idea to be honest.
I'm off for a couple weeks now, I have a long list for the 40 thing, but I plan to spend a day or two on the 60.
I have a really annoying rattle I can't figure out.
Only in higher gears at light throttle in the 2k rpm range on the highway. And not every time either.
Can't recreate it in the driveway, or even on my road.
Just a certain frequency...but I wonder if it's my waste gate rattling as it opens slightly.
Doesn't seem to relate to boost level tho.
More to a slight load, which is hard to do in the driveway. No freaking idea to be honest.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Interesting. So you were actually boosting pretty good before.
I'd loose the washers and buy a manual boost controller. A much better way to do things. I use this one, but there are a million variations to choose from on ebay: Voodoo MBC Black Red Manual Turbo Boost Controller Add upto 30 PSI Made USA | eBay - https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Voodoo-MBC-Black-Red-Manual-Turbo-Boost-Controller-Add-upto-30-PSI-Made-USA/203256544640?hash=item2f5308bd80:g:ZP0AAOSw0G1gC6uP
Number one next step if you want more power is to get gauges on there. Boost and pre-turbo pyrometer. Then you'll know if you have headroom for more fuel/boost or not.
That is a tough motor, I doubt pushing your boost up a little is going to hurt anything now with a new headgasket on there.
I've been running my 2LTE like this for 8 years now and haven't had a problem. If a 'fragile POS' motor can take it, then the mighty 13BT shouldn't have a problem!
Typical speed up on highway high boost and pre-turbo egt while towing 3500lb 16' camper:
Cresting the Malahat. This is a typical temp on factory gauge at the top of that hill on hot day with A/C on towing my 16' trailer. Engine has seen this about 12 times a year for the past 8 years. Amazingly I've had no cylinder head issues. I chalk it up to the Evans Coolant and intercooler/tuning. I never bothered getting an aftermarket coolant gauge - as I don't want to know how hot I'm really getting it.
I agree with Nick, your motor is pretty durable. My guess with the head gasket would be lack of coolant, poor maintenance clogged radiator, water pump on its way out.?They rarely for no reason go south.
Paul, without gauges you are just guessing. With gauges, you can tune it stress-free. If you turn it up and add an intercooler you can see the differences in egt's.... but you need a gauge. See a theme here?
Watching boost gauges is fun... but you need one first.
I loved dialing in my 3B turbo. After I added the intercooler and set the wastegate to 12psi I could happily do the speed limit up the steep side of the Malahat, it was a truly rewarding experience. All with EGT's at a safe 1100 degrees no matter what. The sound of a whistling 4cy diesel is music to my ears, I just love it.
Watching boost gauges is fun... but you need one first.
I loved dialing in my 3B turbo. After I added the intercooler and set the wastegate to 12psi I could happily do the speed limit up the steep side of the Malahat, it was a truly rewarding experience. All with EGT's at a safe 1100 degrees no matter what. The sound of a whistling 4cy diesel is music to my ears, I just love it.
