Rusty lc100- (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter haghyk
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D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
How badyly do you want to keep this exact vehicle?
If you have to ask if you need a welder to fix that rust hole, you are in over your head for DIY.
I ask how badly do you want this exact truck becauase paying someone else to do all this will cost you what it would cost to purchase a much cleaner truck.
If you have to ask if you need a welder to fix that rust hole, you are in over your head for DIY.
I ask how badly do you want this exact truck becauase paying someone else to do all this will cost you what it would cost to purchase a much cleaner truck.
I’m trying to convince this guy he’s wasting his money on this thing. It’s not like it’s just the frame that’s toast. It’s every nut and bolt under that car. Imagine the look on the face of a mechanic in California when they see this thing hahaha.
To add to @D21FJ60
I am the one who does all of my work and I am very versed in wrenching on rusty 4Runners my whole life, which translated easy to the Cruiser world. If you are not going to be the one doing the work or renovating the rust ahead of you, I would bow out if you can afford to. You will have many up hill battles in front of you, some that can get pretty costly if you are not doing the work. Make sure you know what you are in for before moving forward.
I am the one who does all of my work and I am very versed in wrenching on rusty 4Runners my whole life, which translated easy to the Cruiser world. If you are not going to be the one doing the work or renovating the rust ahead of you, I would bow out if you can afford to. You will have many up hill battles in front of you, some that can get pretty costly if you are not doing the work. Make sure you know what you are in for before moving forward.
it may look ugly, but that frame is ok to drive. to me, that one is too far gone - as others have said I would just drive it until it falls apart and be on the lookout for a non-rusty one.
you just can't fix rust
you just can't fix rust
Here’s my take on rusty Cruisers
My case is I bought mine with 240k on it, from the original owner, with a mountain of paperwork on what had been done, and paid $4500 for it. That was 7-8 years ago and I drive it daily. She’s rusty and gets a bit worse every year. She’s difficult to work on at times due to it. However, at the end of the day, she is as reliable as a cream puff and I give zero F’s about trail damages. I pick and choose what gets OEM and what doesn’t. But she runs like a top and again, is still a Cruiser! A rusty Cruiser will take you to the same places a pristine example will. Care for it, be cost minded, drive it to the ground, and learn from her. Gain experience and knowledge that will benefit your next one.
My case is I bought mine with 240k on it, from the original owner, with a mountain of paperwork on what had been done, and paid $4500 for it. That was 7-8 years ago and I drive it daily. She’s rusty and gets a bit worse every year. She’s difficult to work on at times due to it. However, at the end of the day, she is as reliable as a cream puff and I give zero F’s about trail damages. I pick and choose what gets OEM and what doesn’t. But she runs like a top and again, is still a Cruiser! A rusty Cruiser will take you to the same places a pristine example will. Care for it, be cost minded, drive it to the ground, and learn from her. Gain experience and knowledge that will benefit your next one.
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- Thread starter
- #48
So you think I can continue driving ? What would be noticeable sign of fix?
- Thread starter
- #49
As rusty as mine ? See the holes ? I'm ok fixing here and there through a mechanic...but worried of bigger concerns ...but it's like if I take to a welder he'll probably see the whole frame is rusty already...
- Thread starter
- #50
You think the frame with the holes I posted is ok to drive?
- Thread starter
- #51
I’m pretty crusted man, 25 years of Southern Michigan salt. I had a hole in my frame that I cut out and welded in a new custom frame chunk. I’m going to push it as far as it will go and enjoy every mile of it. That said, my price and time of ownership makes every one of those miles just icing on the cake. Depending on how much you have into this may make your view change, but that is my case.
Does your average mechanic in California even know how to deal with rusty hardware like that?
- Thread starter
- #54
There are fabricators with experience but it's pricey. My concern is they look and say wait it's all rusted. Worth patch welding the holes in the photos or just let it ride
- Thread starter
- #55
Wait is it too far gone or looks ok to drive?
- Thread starter
- #56
People have come and passed. It's ca ppl are afraid of rust. I may have to auction if I really have to sell. But I rather not. I've spent 6-7k on parts and fixes already!
If you have to ask this question, you're cooked.
- Thread starter
- #58
Exiled
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Safe to drive for a while? Probably. Worth keeping if you plan to farm out most of the work? Not in my opinion. 100s aren't that rare, the market for them is relatively soft, and you can find them (especially in California) in much better condition that that.
Personally, that's way too much rust for a keeper, because it's not just the hole in the frame and the serious delamination. It's every bolt and screw rusty, likely to break and need extraction. If you live in the Salt Belt and are used to it and have access to mechanics used to rusty vehicles, peace. But in California this is going to be a constant problem every time you have to farm out a repair.
Personally, that's way too much rust for a keeper, because it's not just the hole in the frame and the serious delamination. It's every bolt and screw rusty, likely to break and need extraction. If you live in the Salt Belt and are used to it and have access to mechanics used to rusty vehicles, peace. But in California this is going to be a constant problem every time you have to farm out a repair.
Read back in your thread. Consensus seems to be saying:
- Looks like too much rust to bother with
- Out of sync with the (rust free) CA market
- Don’t invest more in it unless it has sentimental value.
Not sure why you keep circling back to what methods/products you should use on the rust. You’re not at a rust avoidance stage. Sounds like you want to justify what you’ve spent so far by “fixing” it. That’s not possible.
It’s a personal decision as to whether to throw more money at it, but you’re unlikely to make that investment back. Drive it as-is for as long as it’s safe to do so
