Does anyone have ideas how to effectively seal the rear wheel wells to keep water and salt out of the area between the two pieces that are welded together? Is it possible to somehow seal that inside edge where the two panels meet? I have two little spots I am going to fix and would like to keep the rust outa there if at all possible. Any ideas?
Rustproofing rear quarters
- Thread starter toyman317
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they are spot welded so maybe using silcon sealant would work, I cut the lip off 
. I used it to seal my rain gutter.
. I used it to seal my rain gutter.toyman317 said:
Use a two part epxoy primer paint, the stuff is awsome, it dries hard as hell and nothing can pass through it when dried. Just to give you an example how well it works we use this stuff on the US Coast Guard cutter and boats. This 2 part epxoy primer keeps our superstructer from rusting. these vessels are underway 180 days a year and we rarely have rust. just some FYI. I will see if I can get a part number for ya
toyman317 said:
This s*** is the bomb, I guess I am showing my age. but anyway this 2 part primer is extreamly hard. I primed the cargo area, and the tools I have back there have not yet scratch it. I thought about grinding up some tires and see if I could make my own bed liner.
I know what this stuff has done for protecting the exterior bare metal of the sea going Coast Guard cutters. For these boats to be underway 180 days a year and then they cutter never comes out of the salt water and the very little rust is does have Imho I have to say this is awsome stuff. It might be over kill for a LC. I dont know try it and you tell me.
here is the NSN 8010-01-380-2359 (National Stock number is the number that the military uses to order their products.) I tried to find the name for this stuff but I cant. The mfg is Ameron Protective Coatings Group http://ameroncoatings.com/contact_us/index.cfm You can get their number from this web site. Tell the, you want to a price on formula 154 topcoating.
They make different colors. I know 154 is dark gray 150 is green (ugly) 151 white and they a few more colors. You also might be able to call a west marine place and get this stuff. Like I said befor it might be overkill but I know it will never rust their again.
I will see ifI cas dig up some more information on this stuff
They make different colors. I know 154 is dark gray 150 is green (ugly) 151 white and they a few more colors. You also might be able to call a west marine place and get this stuff. Like I said befor it might be overkill but I know it will never rust their again.
I will see ifI cas dig up some more information on this stuff
West Marine carries West Systems Epoxy. Great stuff, don't know about colors though, I use it to fix boats and then cover it with matching gel-coat.
hammer1 said:
That is my plan, I am going to sand it down flat and then just paint it. Paint sticks to it very well!
I have no rust worries at all (live in AZ) so I just filled the joint with eurathane caulk. I then filled the lower cavity with Great Stuff expanding foam and sprayed ruberized undercoating on the upper cavity. Not sure about water, but it really cut down on road noise.
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I only have a couple spots to fix and other than that, rust is very minor. Once I fix the outside with new metal, that epoxy paint sounds like the s***. I am most worried about that joint on the inside where water, etc. can get in between the spot welds. So how does eurathane caulk differ from silicone caulk for the purpose of sealing that joint? I also thought about putting that door edge rubber (or plastic) molding they sell at CCOT for 40s along that joint in addition to the caulk. I think the weakest part of that quarter is the joint and rust starts from the inside after moisture gets in through there.
Urathane caulk is stronger than silicone and bonds to most materials with a degree of tenacity that silicone just can't muster (skin included).
toyman317 said:
I painted the inside of the fender also. If there was bare metal I used that 2 part primer to seal it.
Another great product is a marine sealant called 5200 fast cure or slow cure. It will not stick to moisture but it will cure underwater. This is the stuff I use to seal the transducer to the hull of the cutters. This stuff is extreamly strong. It's about $7.00 a tube.
hammer1 said:
Where do you live Hammer?
I can't belive noone has mentioned POR-15! I treated the inside and out with some acid solution then washed it off and followed it up with 3 coats of POR15. Sealed it up like a drum. I had to scrape out that black sealer strip frome the inner wheel well though. the first caot dripped through then the second coat sealed it up the third was just for fun! 
You probably should dig that foam back out. The foam attracts moisture and then holds it against the metal, rotting it out faster. Sure, you sealed it with undercoating but there was moisture in the area before you started and in the foam. Better to clean the foam out and coat with POR-15, two part epoxy or even a coat of Rustoleum red primer every couple of years. Least wth a paint like coating you can see if problems are developing. With foam in there you won't know you have a problem until it blows through the outside of the sheet metal. By then it's too late...import silvia said:
HTH,
Nick
toyman317 said:
I used cold role steel 20 ga.
I cut a template out and the welded it into place, I have no lips or over hangs that way I can see both sides of the weld and its eaiser to prevent rusting.