Rust review... (1 Viewer)

[jhanley]

So many good, rust free rigs available. If you have the time, keep looking.

If you find anything near Raleigh NC, I'd be more than happy to have a look.

 

[LEX]

Nice time of year for a longer road trip back home. A new to you 100 will make the trip seem short.

 

[n55luvr]

About as good as you'll find in the salt belt. Was this the rig 700 miles away? If you're going to have to board a plane, you might as well get one rust free?

No this one is actually about 2 hours north of me in Ohio. The one in Florida that had really solid service history and a nice clean under carriage had some well hidden cosmetic issues that, after reviewing, we decided to pass on. It needed a new steering wheel, had a 6 inch rip down the side of it, needed new trim pieces for the roof rack, had tons of carpet stains, some dents. A couple of these things I could have overlooked but the combination of so many things scared us away.

I'm going to go check out the Ohio LC tomorrow morning. Those are the pix I posted above. It's hard to tell for sure until I crawl under and really inspect but the rust does seem to be on the minimal side all things considering. The Ohio LC is a 2004 w/ 112k miles. 2 owner, almost no service records until about 100k then it has good history (albeit very short). TB, WP, Plugs, etc were done recently.

Since I'm not in a huge hurry and this won't be our DD I can afford to be patient. I have no issues with flying west or south to find a nice specimen either. Just need to keep it under $20k, while something around 17k would be ideal. I have been scanning North Carolina, KY, TN, SC craigslist adds almost daily so there is always a chance something pops up there as well...

 

[Supra88]

The places to be concerned about are the front and rear windows, pinch welds on the rocker panels, and the inside pockets on the front fenders. The underside on this rig looks fine, although if you plan on upgrading torsion bars, plan to buy new anchor arms.

 

[n55luvr]

The places to be concerned about are the front and rear windows, pinch welds on the rocker panels, and the inside pockets on the front fenders. The underside on this rig looks fine, although if you plan on upgrading torsion bars, plan to buy new anchor arms.

Excellent tips. Making note of those areas now so I don't forget tomorrow morning when I'm investigating outside in 0* weather.

 

[n55luvr]

Looked at the truck yesterday. Rode and drove really nice. No hint of rust anywhere on painted surfaces, all pinch welds and other key spots were pristine. Under carriage had less rust than anticipated. I think that's what pleased me the most about the truck.

The bad: had 2 leaky cv boots. Boots seemed fine, so maybe they just need rebanded. Lots of little dents which should be pullable. One 3" scratch that is not repairable. Rattle between 3-3.5k rpm coming from middle of truck. Sounded like a heat shield so not too worried.

The wildcard: seller stated the intake manifold had a possible leak. Said this was common on these motors? Said his mechanic told him it wasn't something that needed repair if you could take the rattle noise when cold but once up to temp everything was fine. I was only around the motor when it was hot and it sounded perfectly fine. No evidence of leaks around the manifold. Any thoughts?

I do think it's worth taking to Toyota dealer for a thorough inspection. Seller and I are setting that up for next week.

 

[lckarl]

I bought an 2001 LC last summer that lived its whole life in the Rochester NY area. The PO had the thing undercoated which made the rust situation even worse. When one of the rear brake lines started to leak due to rust I decided to redo/replace all of the lines in the back. Virtually all the bolts that hold the little clamps that hold the hard lines were shot. You couldn't even get the bolt head to break off because when you broke the outer layer of rust off, it was no longer a size that would fit any sockets and if you did manage to get a hold of it, what was left just rounded off. I backed the truck up on some ramps and spent a long time drilling out bolts.

When I bought my 1997 80 series I flew out to California to get it. It is a pleasure to work on compared to the 2001.

 

[Supra88]

Sounds like it's the exhaust manifold. Expect to pay the dealer $1000 to replace one side. I think book has as a 6 hour job. DT has an after market header for the 100. They may or may not have any in stock.

As long as the boots aren't torn, it's pretty easy to clean up the shafts, regrease, and clamp the CVs.

Good luck!

 

[n55luvr]

Agreed, rust is a huge pain. I just sold my 2002 Tahoe that lived it's entire life in Ohio and lckarl, it was exactly as you described. It seemed like every basic job turned into a massive headache. Was horrible.

This one I looked at Sunday was no where near the state of my Tahoe.

Bought a couple hours of a senior toyota tech from their local dealership. I gave him a big list of things to check and am looking forward to their feedback Wednesday...

 

[SWUtah]

I'm keeping mine but it would cost you $22,500 if I ever sold it. Condition is number 1 consideration.

 

[n55luvr]

Gorgeous SWUtah!!

 

[Muddy Bean]

Hey, grease up the yoke buddy

 

[stonepa]

View attachment 1039437

I'm keeping mine but it would cost you $22,500 if I ever sold it. Condition is number 1 consideration.

Yours is cleaner than my new LX was after sitting on the new car lot in Ohio for a few months.

 

[SWUtah]

Yours is cleaner than my new LX was after sitting on the new car lot in Ohio for a few months.

Lmao