Rust repair on potential LC purchase - Rust Repair Inc (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 19, 2019
Threads
40
Messages
194
Location
Boone, NC
I found an 05 LC that had frame rust protection installed by company called Rust Repair Inc out of Pittsburgh - I dug around a bit and they say it comes with a lifetime warranty and free annual checkups for 7 years. The reviews online of their service are very positive. Here's a pic from their warranty card and some pics of the undercarriage. The LC only has 101K, but spent most of those miles in NY and MA before landing in NC last year. Has anyone heard of this company? How does the frame look? What do you guys think?

BEFD51A1-3E14-4143-81A8-E21FE63C721D.jpeg


F9B5DCAF-5D47-40E4-9F07-B7E944CB4A98.jpeg


D6C1E127-2071-4C10-A1BF-BF2FC1D9F1C0.jpeg


231A4ED8-1896-46FB-9058-C2FF70482F65.jpeg
 
I would honestly feel safer buying a rust bucket than something that has 100 lbs of rubberized undercoating on it. The only recommended undercoatings are Fluid Film and Amsoil or similar oil/wax type coatings. Whatever is on that truck looks really thick and might cover up more rust than you wanna know about.
 
They’re asking $16,500

Does anyone have any specific experience with the company who applied the application?
 
I would do a fly n drive for no rust and no issues. Too many unknowns.
 
If it was local and I could inspect in person then maybe. But it looks like that stuff is covering something up. Gut says no..
 
The pictures I posted were sent to me from my brother. I went and checked it out in person. It’s actually way worse in person than the pictures would suggest. The lesson here is if it looks rusty in the the pictures it’s probably way worse in reality.
 
that will definitely encapsulate the rust and keep moisture in. Not good. Best thing to do with rust is Remove all loose flaky rust, Convert(Coroseal), high temp roll bar paint, Monitor. If you live in the NE you might want to spray bar and chain oil on entire undercarriage when finished.
 
I agree with Sherpa100- I recently talked to a local shop here who specializes in rust remediation. First thing they do is remove all the rust possible until they are to smooth frame. Second step is to use a rust converter, which chemically alters any existing surface rust remnants to a porcelain-like state, almost as hard as original steel. Final step is to coat with a standard frame coating- a simple black spray that has a rust inhibitor in it. End result is that the frame should look similar to how it looked new- nice and smooth. If you see the rubber look, i'd anticipate trouble down the line- it'll hold moisture in and rot before you can see it.
 
If it's oil based stuff it might be alright.
If it's rubber stuff I would avoid it.
Either way I would not want to wrench on that, seems like smaller parts like electrical connectors, brake lines etc would be a real drag to work with after that mess.
 
I recently talked to a local shop here who specializes in rust remediation. First thing they do is remove all the rust possible until they are to smooth frame. Second step is to use a rust converter, which chemically alters any existing surface rust remnants to a porcelain-like state, almost as hard as original steel. Final step is to coat with a standard frame coating- a simple black spray that has a rust inhibitor in it. End result is that the frame should look similar to how it looked new- nice and smooth.

This is the proper way to do it. What do they charge for this kind of service? A place by me offers a "rustoration" which includes up to 2 hours of rust removal, then rust converter, and finished with coat of oil for $600.
 
I did the rust removal on an older mini truck years ago. Sandblasted the entire frame, used rust converter then painted with a rust proof paint.

Frame rotted out from the inside.

I am a fluid film fan. Doesn't hide anything, can be removed and works well. can be sprayed in the frame as well and will creep. Serial applications will make the coating thicker.

I had my 1997 80 series in the shop for an inspection and they asked who did my undercoating as they wanted to offer them a job. They couldn't believe my 1997 was actually a 1997.

My neighbor had his vehicles done in what I suspect is our local equivalent and it is a major pain in the ass to work on as every bolt is sort of sealed in. I would vote against that.

Good luck
John
 
Hell no, not for $16.5k in NC with rust underneath that coating. Good luck with whatever warranty it has. I know I'm that bug in your ear, LOL.

Mileage is nice, but I stumbled across one for a little less than that price, at almost that mileage (less, actually), in Charlotte with zero rust when I was looking for a 100. I passed on it because I wanted to spend closer to $10k (and keep a few thousand more $$ set aside for maintenance) and I still ended up with a rust-free one eventually.

Be patient. Keep looking. You're doing the right thing by posting them here for our review :)
 
I'd pass on it too. Maybe if it was 10-12k. You can get something more decent for 16.5k. Plus, would you want to drop that kind of money on uncertainty? I’d say keep looking! She’s out there!!
 
This is the proper way to do it. What do they charge for this kind of service? A place by me offers a "rustoration" which includes up to 2 hours of rust removal, then rust converter, and finished with coat of oil for $600.
RND1, it depends on the extent of the rust- mostly how much time they need to spend scraping. He told me most of the LC's (toyota's in general here) he sees the rust is only at the factory welds and flaking on the crappy factory coating toyota puts on. Once they scrape that off, the frame itself is usually in pretty good shape. To do the full scrape, treat, respray (frame paint, not oil), etc. for the frame, rear diff, and big suspension parts you're looking at $1,000 or so and 4-5 days, with roughly 5-8 hours of that scraping. Seems pretty accurate to the quote you got- just make sure they use high quality rust prevention chemicals. I think the stuff they use here is something crazy like $150 a quart.
 
That frame looks like it's rusting from the inside out due to the material that was applied. I would use a screw driver and scrap back some of the sections to see what it looks like underneath the paint.

I saw a video on YouTube the other day that shows how a bad undercoat job looks. I'll see if I can find it again.
 
It’s actually way worse in person than the pictures would suggest. The lesson here is if it looks rusty in the the pictures it’s probably way worse in reality.
Oddly enough, that was always my rule of thumb when I was online dating as well!
 
This is the proper way to do it. What do they charge for this kind of service? A place by me offers a "rustoration" which includes up to 2 hours of rust removal, then rust converter, and finished with coat of oil for $600.
Whats the name of that place?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom