I just started the restoration of my FJ40. The hood is the worst part. It has surface rust. I attached a round wire brush to the end of my drill and have removed the surface rust, now i have 3 conditions...bare shiny metal where paint was removed, paint that has no rust to begin with and a black scale where the rust was removed. What do a do next? Do I have to remove the black scale? or can a built up primer used over the existing surface and sanded? I planned on using Ospho prior to the next step. I want the job to come out good so I am not looking to cut corners. I am afraid to sandblast since the metal panels are thin to begin with. It has the original paint.
Rust Removal does scale have to be removed?
- Thread starter makomark
- Start date
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Can you post a pic of what you are talking about? I went to google "black scale" and came up empty handed. I have been working on my 40 for the past year and have found that many of the rust inhibitor sites are a wealth of information. Any type of rust you may have on your rig you need to get rid of, whether cutting it out or treating it with a rust inhibitor chemical.
- Thread starter
- #3
Picture added
Here is a picture of the condition, does the brown scale need to be removed? Or can it be built up around it?
Here is a picture of the condition, does the brown scale need to be removed? Or can it be built up around it?
- Thread starter
- #5
Thanks, I was hoping to try my new sander from Harbor Freight yesterday but it did not work out of the box. In my mind i was thinking that the wire brush was more abraisive. I assume after I get down to bare metal i will have to spray on a self etching primer? Can I use an aerosol can or should it be sprayed? I have other pieces to do so it may sit for a while indoors? Can i spray it with wd40 so I don't get flash rusting?
spdwaver
Formerly Kalifornistanian
It is acceptable to rattle can the primer, or if it is easier for you, use the sprayer. I have only used rattle can since it is just convenient for me since I only do smaller jobs at a time.
As far as trying to protect the other pieces until they are painted, I guess it is a question of how long/where they will be sitting. I would not advise spraying the parts down with wd40 since that stuff could get into places that could prove difficult to remove when you are ready to paint - it only adds to the prep work and could ruin the paint job. Keep in mind that paint will not adhere well to wd40, and even a little underlying remnants of the product will cause the paint to bubble.
If the parts are sitting for, let's say a week, you could go over the lightly rusted sections with scotch-brite or sand paper and wipe it down with mineral spirits prior to applying the base coat.
Hope this helps.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
Like Texx was saying, use 80 grit sandpaper, block or DA it. There will be swirl marks all over unless you go back over it with 220 grit to smooth out the scoring from the 80 grit.
After 220, smooth over it again with even 600 if you want. The more perfect the canvas, the better the painting. Etching primer, then a high build. Block it, then seal it. Then color, then clear, then wet sand with 2000 or 3000, then buff, then enjoy.
Best of luck!
Dallas
After 220, smooth over it again with even 600 if you want. The more perfect the canvas, the better the painting. Etching primer, then a high build. Block it, then seal it. Then color, then clear, then wet sand with 2000 or 3000, then buff, then enjoy.
Best of luck!
Dallas
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks for the input, I am going to hit it tonight with my new DA sander, hopefully this one works. One last question, most of the panels are rust free, do I still need to remove all the old original paint, or can i just sand it and primer? Some areas do need some bondo to fix the small dents and dings.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
No, you do not need to remove all of the original paint. The surface just needs to be smooth, sanded and clean. Remember, if you can close your eyes and run your hand over the metal and "feel" anything, you'll be able to see it too.
Also, on the small dents, get the body hammers out and tap out what you can. The less bondo, the better. I can't stress cleanliness of the surface before paint.
Ask away - i love this stuff
dallas
Also, on the small dents, get the body hammers out and tap out what you can. The less bondo, the better. I can't stress cleanliness of the surface before paint.
Ask away - i love this stuff
dallas
Do you have a preferred etching primer; even better one that is in the more affordable range? And are mineral spirits good enough as a pre-paint cleaner? Would I go straight from sand blast or DA to mineral spirits to primer?
Thanks
Thanks
Like you, I am new to the rust removal and painting thing. I have found a great deal of useful information within this website. I think that there are better products than mineral spirits to clean your metal surfaces. Many of the guys/gals use mineral spirits to thin their paint when using their spray guns. Have fun with this site and use the search tool, read the posts of others within. There is a wealth of information, and plenty of pics from others.
Lots of paints are gonna have a bad reaction to something like mineral spirits. You want a commercial product like prep sol, available at your local auto body paint store. It's basically a wax and grease remover, and Ideally you'd use it before you sand. Keeps from sanding the wax/grease into the metal. Use two lint free cloths, wipe on with one, immediately wipe off with the other.
