Rust Dissolver Rec (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 10, 2024
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3
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Location
Austin, TX
I've got some medium surface rust to lightly pitted areas that I want to get prepped for painting. I tried Rust-Oleum Dissolver Gel and it worked half ass on the surface rust and seemed to do nothing on the lightly pitted areas. I prepped with a wire brush, did multiple thick layers, and had it on there for 3 - 4 hours, agitating it with a dish brush the whole time. I thought it would turn black eventually; about 60% of the surface rust areas did. But the light pitted areas were orange when I got done. It's probably 10 times worse now because the trucks been sitting under a carport for 3 weeks un-coated. (It's at a ranch out of town).

I'd like something that can do the job an a couple of hours or less, I can't wait over night because I've got a time limit to complete the job.

Any opinions? Thank you in advance!

P.S. - does anybody like converter better? I always think of it as not being as powerful as a dissolver.
 
I think you are looking for this part of the forum.
 
1st i must say i'm no body and paint guy. Sandpaper? I've used Prep and Etch b4. It's got phophos in it to help treat rust and it cleans the surface. Read its instructions, cause it has multiple uses. The sealer and primer I used on my 40 had surface prep instructions on its instruction sheet.
 
1st i must say i'm no body and paint guy. Sandpaper? I've used Prep and Etch b4. It's got phophos in it to help treat rust and it cleans the surface. Read its instructions, cause it has multiple uses. The sealer and primer I used on my 40 had surface prep instructions on its instruction sheet.

Thanks! I went to the local hardware store and they had a nice old dude behind the paint counter who was definitely knowledgeable and gave me a lot of time. He looked at photos of what I am doing and gave me a bottle of acid (I can't remember what kind and it's not with me). Plus some wet/dry sand paper and a wheel brush for my angle grinder. I think I've got what I need. I used a liquid product about 25 years ago that worked kick ass but I couldn't remember what it was, after talking to him, what I used was definitely this acid. I expect to have it black in 10 - 15 minutes after prep. That was my experience before and why so was so disappointed with that "dissolver gel". I'll come back and post the results if you're interested.
 
Prep and Etch is found in the big box stores too. It turns just the rust black.
 
@Carp888 here is the prep and etch I use and some recent pics of it in action.

This hood had the paint baked off it. The truck sat abandoned in the AZ sun since 1999.

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Here's after a few minutes and a quick hose down. I sprayed a second round of prep and etch (used full strength) and that's the second pic. It never turned anything black that I used it on except parts I left in a bucket overnight. It wipes off. It's just a light coating kind of like parkerizing.

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Light rust washes right off with water. You can speed up the heavier stuff with wire brush or scotchbright pads. Wear gloves. It's not like pool acid but it still affects your skin.

It will flash rust super fast so you need to dry it. I sand it with my DA sander and it stays clean.

Some epoxy primers are VERY sensitive to phosphoric acid and MUST be neutralized or it will affect your paint job. So read your paint tech sheet.

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My parts after sanding with 80 grit. I'm in AZ so it doesn't flash rust unless I get water on it.

View attachment 3761788

Your rig looks like the Cyber-McClaren model. That's pretty amazing! Thanks for taking the time to explain all that, super helpful. This is a hunting vehicle and I'm actually hoping everything turns black (and quickly). The hardware store paint man said I could paint right over it once it's dry with what I'm using below so hopefully I'll be ok.

I'm going to pick up a couple of bottles of prep & etch and try both, I've got lots of parts to clean.

Thanks!

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It definitely eats rust and does NOT eat the steel. It's nice to know that it gets rid of the rust down inside panels where you can't reach. Good luck with your project. 👍
 
If you're cleaning small to medium sized parts (basically parts you can fit into some sort of bin) use an Evapo-rust like product. The name brand stuff is great ($$$ though) but, there are now DIY formulas using Citric acid and Sodium Bicarbonate that work 95% as well. Link to the video that convinced me to brew my own. Done a couple batches now and it works very well, maybe a little slower than the standard Evaporust but, it does get after the rust. I've made bins big enough to do doors and even built "dams" on larger parts where I could pool the liquid to clean floors for example. I've played with converters as well but, nothing beats the completely clean steel you get from a rust chelating agent.

DIY Evaporust
 
I 2nd the recipe in the link. Very pleased with the results.
 
Link to the video that convinced me to brew my own.
Recipe for others wanting the recipe without sitting through 15 minutes of video:
  • 1 liter of water
  • 100 grams citric acid
  • 40 grams sodium carbonate (washing soda)
The video has other information that is worth a look, but I wish he'd just spell out the recipe somewhere so here you go.
 

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