Running stock torsion bars with 2.5 OME (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Apr 26, 2018
Threads
4
Messages
8
Location
Fort Worth, tx
This is my first post (my apologies in advance if this is beat to death but at least im not asking what size tire)

I searched (both google site search and in forum) and read the torsion bar 101 which was a great overview, as well as a few other stock / ome related posts.

My question what disadvantage I'll be at running stock torsions vs OME (right now everyone is out of OME) and I just want to get this build going.

2000 LC
Planning on 295 70 18 nitto ridge grapplers (came with unmounted tundra 18s)
2.5 medium OME
No Bumpers - ill do some offroading but will be mostly on road and will be sure to have buddy with a winch on their rig whenever i do hit trails or mud

Trying to keep costs down I also just bought a used BMW M4 otherwise id go front and back slee bumpers - it came with a "safari brush guard" that I immediately ripped off along with the side steps, and tail light guards. Mud flaps coming off soon.

From what I've gathered it seems like the main con is that the ride might be a bit soft (i.e. torsion bars wont be as stiff in their twist). This doesnt bother me if its not a huge deal. Main concern is damage / stock torsion bars breaking or something.

TLDR: Trying to decide whether to wait to order full 2.5 medium kit from slee, including control arms, or buy everything above sans OME torsion bars and get going on this build. Or do I even need full kit at all?

Thanks for the help.

Also, if anyone is in the DFW, TX area that does want a safari brush guard, running boards, tail light guards for 100 series let me know you can have them for like a beer. Paint on running boards is the Grey-ish (supposedly some green in there?) color of the 100 series.

View attachment 1707265

IMG_0710.jpg
 
Last edited:
Why not go with another suspension set up that is in stock? Tough Dog suspension sold by @reevesci is what I run but it’s not always in stock. Ironman is another popular alternative which is usually in stock.

Might wanna do some more research on the OME setup. Many on this forum complain it to be too stiff, while others claim it’s fine.

But to answer your original question, yes you could probably get by on your stock bars until you could get some aftermarket ones, but once again someone has torsion bars in stock, they just may not be OME.
 
Torsion bars don't care what your lift is. Just index them and set them to have enough droop. You can run stock bars without a bumper, they will not feel soft. The shocks make more difference to the ride "feel", IMHO. I ran stock bars, cranked, with no sway bar, and Tough Dog shocks, and had no complaints, on the highway or off.

You almost certainly won't be able to get your caster in spec with a 2.5 inch lift without UCAs. I went 1.5" first, since that allowed me to keep it within alignment spec, then bought the rest of the bits to go 2.5" later (diff drop, 2.5" springs, UCAs). Taking that intermediate step only cost an extra $170 for the 1.5" springs, which I can recoup a large part of by selling them when I switch to 2.5".

I have Tough Dog shocks and TBs from @reevesci at Trail Tailor, with OME rear springs. The ride is great. I've not heard good things about the ride with the OME shocks.
 
Last edited:
Wonder what shipping to Statesboro Georgia would be on that brush gaurd?
 
Thanks for the replies guys, I appreciate it!

@sailor95 - I think it would be more than it is worth to be honest just because of the size. I worked at UPS in college and pretty sure that would be pricey.
 
You are probably fine with stock t-bars cranked up. As mentioned above, meet droop spec and the alignment issues as you go higher.
You are not going to break something unless you are bottoming out the front hard, then it will be the lower control arm. But for the trails you mention it does not sound like an issue. The stiffer t-bars have a couple purposes, take added weight (bumper and winch) and reduce bottoming out on rough trails. The IFS does not have a lot of travel or room for a lot of shock so t-bars and shocks have to work together to maximize what travel there is.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom