RTH: Transfer Case Fill Housing Crack!!!

[GeoRoss]

Well !

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/297901-rth-transfer-case-fill-housing-crack.html#post4653691

If you guys have any miracles up your sleeve, I would greatly appreciate it. We were planning on leaving in the morning, taking two days to get to Durango. We can make the drive in one day if needed. I would much rather take the 80 so we can actually run some trails and get away from all to dorks driving minivans. Otherwise, I'll be one of the dorks in a minivan.

 

[FJ40LVR]

Permement miracles, or temporary mracles?

Depending on flow for temporary, JB WELD would be my choice. Properly clraned and adhered is is a good emergency fix.

 

[GeoRoss]

If I were to JB weld it, would that make welding it a problem. I would hate for a "temp" fix to fubar a permanent fix.

Now that I am starting to come off the drama, I'm wondering if RTV and duct tape would work.

 

[Tools R Us]

Permement miracles, or temporary mracles?

Depending on flow for temporary, JB WELD would be my choice. Properly clraned and adhered is is a good emergency fix.

2X,,, it will come off to be welded, heat is your friend, ~300F and it softens.

 

[splitshot]

Permement miracles, or temporary mracles?

Depending on flow for temporary, JB WELD would be my choice. Properly clraned and adhered is is a good emergency fix.

X2, just clean up the area w/lots of solvent and use a good epoxy. Deal with it when you get back. I hate to hand out bad advice, but that's what I would do to get out of driving the minivan.

Seriously Ross, from the pics, that doesn't look like an 80 cancelling issue, unless the crack is gone around the circumference of the housing hole.

Heck, if it's clean enough, silicone RTV might even do the job..

 

[FJ40LVR]

Speaking of JB Weld...I have a pistol I made a front sight out of JB weld for a bear hunt - let it set up and sanded it into shape. It was a temporary fix that has lasted since 1995...gives the weapon a nice look.

 

[Tools R Us]

...
Heck, if it's clean enough, silicone RTV might even do the job..

I would use epoxy, IIRC silicone is a bad thing when welding alloy.

 

[a.mus.ed]

Let me know if you need a hand, Ross.

 

[GeoRoss]

Well, the people have spoken. They don't want to see me drive a minivan to CO. I'll drain some of the oil, clean the surface with brake cleaner and carefully seal it up with JB Weld. How long does it take to set up. I should probably do it with the plug out till it sets.

 

[splitshot]

Leave the plug in, mix a tiny batch just to build up the cracked area. Clean it real good with some carb cleaner and then some breaklean.

Hell Ross, your driving a cruiser here.. (From the dude who has been driving with a cracked block for 5+ years)

JB takes about 24 hours to cure..

 

[GeoRoss]

Leave the plug in, mix a tiny batch just to build up the cracked area. Clean it real good with some carb cleaner and then some breaklean.

Hell Ross, your driving a cruiser here.. (From the dude who has been driving with a cracked block for 5+ years)

JB takes about 24 hours to cure..

Clean, epoxy with the plug in and then check fluid levels tomorrow evening? Don't drain any oil first?

 

[GeoRoss]

Well, I cleaned it up. It kept weeping so I just drained the oil and then used the JB weld. I couldn't find my stash so I had to run out. Tomorrow afternoon I'll fill it with gear oil and gently put the fill plug back in. Since this may take some time to resolve I thought some fresh oil would be nice. It is curing right now without the plug.

I am thinking of using some black RTV to help seal/hold it together. Good idea?

 

[splitshot]

Clean, epoxy with the plug in and then check fluid levels tomorrow evening? Don't drain any oil first?

Sorry just got back from dinner. It doesn't even look like it's to the point of putting out a drip, just some seepage when it gets warm. I would think you could just clean and epoxy the way it is without draining anything off.

Problem is, if you remove the plug, epoxy, and reinstall it, you've got the possiblity of cracking the epoxy job.

 

[GeoRoss]

Sorry just got back from dinner. It doesn't even look like it's to the point of putting out a drip, just some seepage when it gets warm. I would think you could just clean and epoxy the way it is without draining anything off.

Problem is, if you remove the plug, epoxy, and reinstall it, more that likely you will crack the epoxy job.

DOH! I'll be careful.

 

[splitshot]

DOH! I'll be careful.

We've got to stop typing at the same time..

You should be ok as long as you still have a flat surface for the plug to seat and don't horse on it.

 

[-Spike-]

Question is, why did it crack? If it's a stress crack no amount of JB Weld is gonna hold.

 

[GeoRoss]

Oh well, we'll see if it holds tomorrow when I fill it back up and put the plug back in.

RTV, yeah or nea?

 

[-Spike-]

If that's all it is I'd think you'll be fine. You might consider putting some pipe dope (teflon sealant or teflon tape) on the plug and (obviously) not putting a lot of torque on it.

 

[Tools R Us]

When you refill, I would snug the plug, then put more epoxy on the plug to case joint to seal and lock it in place.

 

[RHINO]

i think a garden hose rubber gasket is a pretty good fit around that plug, if you use it or an o ring you will get a great seal w/o having to torque it down too much.