RTH- CV stuck in diff
- Thread starter 2000UZJ
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
2000UZJ said:
Pry on the axle then rotate it and pry more. A lot of times it will get cocked when you're trying to get it out. If that doesn't work you can hit it with an air chisel if you have one.
Windrock carnage?
Ive not done this on a 100 series, but it works well. I have a friend rotate opposite tire/wheel back and forth as you tap and pry on CV.
Slide hammer?
I think you need a brass drift and hammer. Try tapping on the backside as you spin the axle around.
AARRGGHH! That's just what you need when you're on a deadline to get it changed out!
You're probably right that the spring clip is pinched.
Since the inner joint is toast.........
- Soft hammer [or wood block & dead blow] to reseat the spring clip.
- Drill holes in the inner joint case and run a bolt through to provide a pull point
- Try rotating the other wheel to free things up while snap-pulling from the bolt to pop the shaft out
You're probably right that the spring clip is pinched.
Since the inner joint is toast.........
- Soft hammer [or wood block & dead blow] to reseat the spring clip.
- Drill holes in the inner joint case and run a bolt through to provide a pull point
- Try rotating the other wheel to free things up while snap-pulling from the bolt to pop the shaft out
- Thread starter
- #14
So here is what I learned today.
1) take it to ACC and go home for a cold beer. Let the real techs do this.
2) this is near impossible if you pinch the c-clip in the differential
3) give up after 4 hours of crow bar'ing. You will hit total muscle failure and start going crazy.
4) If you wheel your truck beyond its capability stuff won't be easy to fix....nothing sits straight anymore.
She is all buttoned up, 2WD currently. I will be calling Mike @ ACC a call for last minute tips. Hydraulic tools are required at this point.
So here is what I am thinking of doing if you gents think this will work. . Taking a dead blow hammer And reseating the inboard joint ( not blown like previously thought). Taking apart my spare CV and performing a rebuild with the inboard joint still attatched. I'm pissed I didnt think of this sooner. It's very easy to pull that c-clip, slide the cage out and replace boot/degrease. And you don't have to pull and push and smash your head/knuckles on the frame. I'm nervous that I have potentially scarred the diff splines by dragging the c-clip through there. The diff is sitting .5" outside the full seating. So I feel I'm dragging them through the diff. Which is no bueno.
1) take it to ACC and go home for a cold beer. Let the real techs do this.
2) this is near impossible if you pinch the c-clip in the differential
3) give up after 4 hours of crow bar'ing. You will hit total muscle failure and start going crazy.
4) If you wheel your truck beyond its capability stuff won't be easy to fix....nothing sits straight anymore.
She is all buttoned up, 2WD currently. I will be calling Mike @ ACC a call for last minute tips. Hydraulic tools are required at this point.
So here is what I am thinking of doing if you gents think this will work. . Taking a dead blow hammer And reseating the inboard joint ( not blown like previously thought). Taking apart my spare CV and performing a rebuild with the inboard joint still attatched. I'm pissed I didnt think of this sooner. It's very easy to pull that c-clip, slide the cage out and replace boot/degrease. And you don't have to pull and push and smash your head/knuckles on the frame. I'm nervous that I have potentially scarred the diff splines by dragging the c-clip through there. The diff is sitting .5" outside the full seating. So I feel I'm dragging them through the diff. Which is no bueno.
Its time.....
chasing a 40 up a double black ATV trail may have been a lil too much for the IFS 
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/855/img06711.jpg/
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/855/img06711.jpg/
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Get the guys from ACC to look at it, if you rebuild it and drive it with the splines damaged you may be multiplying your problems. On the flip side if the damage is already done then you have the good part of the CV left to rebuild it again. That sux when you know it should have just popped right out...
- Thread starter
- #18
Gottagetone said:
I unlocked the center diff this morning and heard a very slight grinding sound (barely audible) . So the splines aren't fully engaged. Which means its almost out. It's going to ACC tomorrow with the new axle and I'll have Brian swap it out. I'm not taking the hub off again. It's the 3rd axle I've replaced. This was the first 100% solo with the help of pman. I'm not quite sure what went wrong. But I think it's almost out.
I'll post some updates later if I decide to pry on it some more tonight. I must admit, a 2WD 100 is a blast to drive
Although this sucks big time. It's a great learning experience.
pman said:
YES!!! Do it!
- Thread starter
- #20
The golden hands of Mike T at ACC was able to extract it. Replacing the diff seal (precautionary) and installing the new axle. Air hammer and some serious chiseling. Crow bars weren't even close to pulling it. The c clip was pinned pretty good. Tapping it back in was the trick. Front diff splines are fine.
Updates later.
Updates later.