RTH - Coolant leak

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Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Threads
59
Messages
813
Location
Portland, OR
Hey guys, got a leak on the front of the engine, just behind the fan clutch. Also looks like it's part of the water pump housing, but am not sure. What am I in for here? Also, what should I be replacing for PM when I fix this?

In the 2nd pic, you can see that the lip of the hole is broken. And broken in a way that doesn't allow the pipe with the rubber sealer to seal properly. I'm guessing I have to replace the whole peice that the pipe is apart of. Does that sound right? What is it called?

Here are some pics of the leak.

leak1.webp

leak2.webp
leak1.webp
leak2.webp
 
Thanks Jefftb. So it looks like the bend and broken nipple piece can be removed from the top of the housing and replaced on it's own. That sure is a relief.
 
Yep. Check post #6 on that other thread, that will take you to another thread with FSM pictorial and P/N's on what is needed...
 
Yep. Got all the parts ordered. With new coolant bypass pipe, was about $48. Thanks again. Any thoughts on how to get the nipple pipe out of the top of the water pump housing?
 
Since you needed/ordered a new nipple, there should be no harm in grabing it with your favorite channel locks or locking pliers and pull it out. It might be tight or resistant and it look likes yours is splitting so make sure you get it out all in one piece. If it tears or splits you could have a bigger job.

Mine was fairly hard to remove for some reason, others have not had any real issues with it. I had to pull and rock it back and forth.

It is slightly a registered fit with close tolerances and the added friction of the oring.
 
Dry the joint. Spray some PB Blaster penetrating oil on the joint. Let it soak overnight. Put vice grips on it and use a combination of rotating force and rocking force while pulling very hard upward. I think I used a blunt pry bar/screwdriver to generate the lifting force because there is little movement.

DougM
 
Thanks for all the good tips. It was actually much easier than I thought it was going to be. I used some channel locks and wiggled the old piece out in a couple minutes. Put seals on the new nipple and tapped it in gently with the wood end of a hammer. Then pushed on the bypass pipe with seal and bolted it back up. Worked like a charm.

Old vs New
coolant1.webp

Old vs New
coolant2.webp

Nipple in place
coolant3.webp
coolant1.webp
coolant2.webp
coolant3.webp
 

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