RT Help Busted Ignition, final steps

[Porter]

Ok, so I removed the broken rod, and screwed the back "white plastic housing" on the back of assembly. Now I'm inserting new rod into assembly. It appears my steering is locked and the 'lock flange' at the 3 o'clock position needs to spring back so I can slide rod in to seat in the back of the ignition assembly housing. How do I release the tension on this flange to fully insert rod? And it is lubed, so don't go there. lol.

 

[Porter]

Problem solved. I'll have an update for the instructions on post 33. It's a straightforward way to insert it without messing it up by 180°. More later.

 

[Porter]

I'm going to add to post #33 for clarity. You do NOT need to remove the plastic white housing on the back of the assembly, just unscrew 1/16" or so. DO NOT screw this housing back tight until you have inserted new rod. I learned this the hard way.

Here's the simple way to avoid the 180 degree off problem. Insert the new rod with brass flange at 12 o'clock.

With needle nose pliers, rotate slightly counter clockwise to seat the nub in the back of housing. Then spin clockwise to 4 or 5 o'clock position. That simple. The proper aligment is the brass flange at the 4 o'clock position. Insert key assembly, and bam, the rig comes to life and you'll know immediately.

You can practice this on the new assembly housing before the real thing, as you own a housing that you won't need. Just play with it to see proper alignment. The steering lock flange is not an issue, you do not need to depress it, even if you could.

 

[Porter]

The above reference is to post #33 by Parnoren in the large
busted ignition" thread that I don't have time to link to. Thanks Parnoren for all the direction, my info is only meant to add clarity. Also, I learned that one must say a minimum of 5 loud cuss words for the neighbors to hear prior to job completion.

 

[spressomon]

^ I see, er hear, you've adopted my method (of cussing)