Roof Rack Power?

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Ski's? I fit an entire full-sized refridgerator (and more) in the back on mine recently-and with all the doors shut too :)

As far as the power, why not use the spring-loaded thingy and mount it near where the snorkel would come through the fender. No holes in the roof, and you'll simply need to temporarily attach a power cable just long enough to plug into the socket when you want your lights mounted.

Chris
 
I used the left side rear vent to run my wiring. You don't have to worry about making drip loops or anything like that, and you also don't have to drill any holes in your roof. The wiring is a little more intense since you are pulling back trim and carpeting to make it a clean install, but when all is said and done, I do have a clean install and never have to worry about drip loops or a leaky roof. Might want to take a look at that option.
 
DBS311 said:
I used the left side rear vent to run my wiring. You don't have to worry about making drip loops or anything like that, and you also don't have to drill any holes in your roof. The wiring is a little more intense since you are pulling back trim and carpeting to make it a clean install, but when all is said and done, I do have a clean install and never have to worry about drip loops or a leaky roof. Might want to take a look at that option.

What did you do from the vent up to the rack?
Russ
 
I put the wires into black electrical tubing and ran that straight to the roof rack and then secured the tubing to the body. I'll snap a pic and post it later.
 
nuclearlemon said:
no offense, but do you really need a roofrack and would you really use one? i had one, and it was great the two or three times that i moved stuff between my house and my friend's dad's house. otherwise, it was a waste and it is noticeable performance-wise(i didn't think it would be, but a friend told me to take it off...wow!! i'm am 98% glad it's gone).
I agree - I took my Yakima off and noticed a mpg difference /13 to 15... - but living way out we tend to use ours all the time - so I put it back up - I am cutting off the rear gas can holder and tire mount on my cruiser because the older type Stout Bumper blocks the tail lights - It has lights on the bumper but the cop said it was not enough and let me go with a warning - - so I am moving the spare up top - should really kill my mileage!
 
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nuclearlemon said:
otherwise, it was a waste and it is noticeable performance-wise(i didn't think it would be, but a friend told me to take it off...wow!! i'm am 98% glad it's gone).


not when yall went to Utah for "Outlaw trail"! if i remember, you were wishin you had one...lol!
 
I've got a 1/2 rack with power to it. MPG isn't really an issue - no matter what I do, I get 9mpg. Since I had the headliner out, I went through the roof and was able to seal it very well, and used some maring quick connects in case I ever wanted to take the rack off. At this point though, I have no reason to take it off. Power is used for 4 cheapo Hella 500's on the front and 2 550's on the rear - very handy for backing a trailer down a dark ramp.
 
sorry it took so long. here is my wiring from the vent to the rack. once again, you never have to worry about it leaking and you don't have to drill a hole in the roof.
 
DBS311, how many wires do you have going up to the rack? I hit a snag while wiring my roof rack, and have been meaning to ask the board's wisdom. I have the same number of lights. Please advice.
 
I have 6 wires from the car to the rack. It then branches off to 12 wires for all the lights. On the front I have 4 Hella 4000's. The two center lights are pencil beams and the end lights are euro beams. Then I have the twin IPF 816's on the rear to come on with my reverse lights. I wired the similar lights together before the wiring left the rack specifically so I didn't have 12 wires running through the vent. They would all fit, but if you have an opportunity to make the install a little cleaner, then why not? So, to try and explain this a little easier, 6 wires leave the car and go to the rack, 2 wires split to 4 wires for the 816's, 2 more split to 4 for the euro's, and the last 2 split to 4 for the pencil beams.
 
DBS311, I was wondering if water drips into the vent easier because of the flow of water following the elec. cord?
 
The way the vent is built, water won't be able to follow the wires up into the vent. It almost acts like a drip loop without have to see the ugly drip loop. As the wires come down to the vent, they pass through the vent and then travel up to pass into the vehicle. All water traveling down the wires hits that u-bend and drips off. After years of downpours in VA, I have never had water enter my car through the vent. If you take a close look at the vent you will see how water can't enter (unless the vehicle is upside down).
 

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