Roof Rack Power?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 17, 2004
Threads
166
Messages
1,929
Location
Humboldt Nation
Any good ideas on how to cleanly and simply get power out to the roof rack?
Maybe run the power out the rear hatch through the jam?
Looking to mount my Hella driving lights up there.
Thanks,
Russ :cool:
 
up and out driver or passenger side door is what I've seen done. out the back door and back to the front would take alot more wire.
 
when I had lights and my cb antena on the rack I ran the cables up the passenger side B pillar and out the top front of the passenger side rear door. I figured this was the least used door and the wiring on the inside was run up inside the passenger seat belt housing. so you really only saw it the last inch or so to the door .then it was zip tied to the gutter mount of hte rack and led where need be.
for the rear work light/reverse light I ran it out the top of the rear lift gate, I have since moved the rear light and the cb antena onto a mast atop my rear tire swing out. that way my rack can be removed without affecting them. I have yet to remount my hellas on the rack in that I want to mount some rock lights under the truck instead. I have some hella 4000's on the front and those and my H1's and H4's more than light up what is in front of me.
another option is to run the wiring up your snorkle if you have one. That is prolly how i will do it when I put power back on the roof rack. Mainly because I would want to install side lights as well and i have a water proof box all the way forward in my rack that would house my electric connections for the roof.
HTH Jason
 
I suggest that you go out and buy yourself a snorkle....I know that you have been trying to justify buying one. So just buy one and do what I did run the wires throuh the snorkle and up to the rack....clean and easy and now you have the justification needed to buy yourself a snorkel :)
 
calfj60 said:
I suggest that you go out and buy yourself a snorkle....I know that you have been trying to justify buying one. So just buy one and do what I did run the wires throuh the snorkle and up to the rack....clean and easy and now you have the justification needed to buy yourself a snorkel :)

Hmmmmm
 
fj6202840 said:
when I had lights and my cb antena on the rack...

Did you have any problems with rain running down the cable and inside? That happened when I used a magnetic based CB ariel.
Russ :cool:
 
no offense, but do you really need a roofrack and would you really use one? i had one, and it was great the two or three times that i moved stuff between my house and my friend's dad's house. otherwise, it was a waste and it is noticeable performance-wise(i didn't think it would be, but a friend told me to take it off...wow!! i'm am 98% glad it's gone).
 
Russ in California said:
Did you have any problems with rain running down the cable and inside? That happened when I used a magnetic based CB ariel.
Russ :cool:

it wasn't too bad, not near as much that has been coming in the windsheild gasket these days. it was up under the rain gutter so that helped.
I really like the idea of routing the wires in the snorkle, I was just going to run them along side the snorkel but in it makes alot of sense it will only be exposed at the top.
trick i figured out when i rain a magnetic cb antena mount was to put a peice of sign makers vynil on the roof on the spot you stick it so you protect the roof paint.

As far as to have a rack or not i use mine alot; trips to home depot prunning trees plus all the camping and stuff. I have even slept up there a few times. the ladder up to it helps a great deal in making it more excessible. as far as gas milage goes these trucks really don't do that well to begin with but if you are worried about gas milage then i can see why you might not want one. I geuss I'm just resigned to getting 9-11mpg. my commute is 2 miles so i only have to fill up every other week or so.
Jason
 
How often do you wheel?

I've thought it would be interesting to fab up a removable set of lights, using the quick clamps used for roof racks. That way, if you're going wheeling, you can clamp the cross-bar/lights on top, plug the wiring to some sort of outlet you've fabbed in the cab, and run the wires out the door. No need to worry about permanent wiring messing with the seal of your door, plus you can take the lights off and run the truck through the car wash (if they'll let you). :D
 
This has turned into a very intersting thread. I have to agree with wether or not you really need the roof rack. I had one on my truck and for the couple of times I needed it I really needed it but those times were few and far between in the 5 plus years that I had the rack on the truck. I am thinking along the lines of a small rack that only goes over the fron driver's area and would be easily removed by myself when I didn't want it. After wheeling Pismo in November it became really clear why I had the lights on the roof of my truck..man they were nice at night :) But I don't think I will go back with a full sized rack again...
 
Jman said:
How often do you wheel?

I've thought it would be interesting to fab up a removable set of lights, using the quick clamps used for roof racks. That way, if you're going wheeling, you can clamp the cross-bar/lights on top, plug the wiring to some sort of outlet you've fabbed in the cab, and run the wires out the door. No need to worry about permanent wiring messing with the seal of your door, plus you can take the lights off and run the truck through the car wash (if they'll let you). :D

Yeah, but then you can't look cool driving around on the street with roof lights.
 
I have been thinking of the exact same thing, a removable bar with the lights mounted. This would allow me to unmount my 3/4 rack if I decide to, and also solve my problem with the lights being too far back if I leave it on.
I had the idea I could leave a fixed wire with a marine type connecter in place on the roof, then just plug the lights in when I want them. Problems:
1. The dork factor.
2. Possible loss of support/strength, especially with low branches.
3. The dork factor. I think lights on a pickup's roll bar are ok, but a "light bar" on a 62?
 
Russ in California said:
Did you have any problems with rain running down the cable and inside? That happened when I used a magnetic based CB ariel.
Russ :cool:


You can put a drip loop in the line like in this photo link http://www.electrical-contractor.net/ubb/Forum4/HTML/000397.html .Although the one in the photo is for electrical you can see similar loops on your phone line outside your house.
 
Lzwo said:
I have been thinking of the exact same thing, a removable bar with the lights mounted. This would allow me to unmount my 3/4 rack if I decide to, and also solve my problem with the lights being too far back if I leave it on.
I had the idea I could leave a fixed wire with a marine type connecter in place on the roof, then just plug the lights in when I want them. Problems:
1. The dork factor.
2. Possible loss of support/strength, especially with low branches.
3. The dork factor. I think lights on a pickup's roll bar are ok, but a "light bar" on a 62?

The dork factor is the exact reason why Jman wants 'em. :flipoff2:
 
There was a guy here in SLC that had a really tricked out Montero and the way he did it was to cut a small hole, I think towards the back of the roof, where he installed one of those trailer electrical connectors with a spring loaded cover. It was only a little larger than a quarter. That way he had a quick disconnect when he wanted to remove the rack. After seeing that I decided it was the way I’d go if I ever wanted power on a rack. I agree that for about 90% of the time the rack just adds drag. This setup makes it about a 5 min. job to take on/off.

Brad
 
i found the lights on the rack facing forward kind of useless for anything strait ahead unless you are puttin some serious wattage up there. then they will light the distance fine but the obsticles are guna be right in front of you. I prefer the lights in the bull bar for strait ahead lighting so that they can light up what is in front of you.

New England is full of too many trees on the trails and i didn't want my hella 4000's on the roof like a goalie in front of the net during pre game shoot around. plus with my light colored truck i would have to flat black the hood to get rid of the glare. however i do want to mount some side ligths on the rack and maybe some cheap hella 500's on the front corners of the rack to lighht up the front sides.

I hate when night wheeling only being able to see what is in front of you. I think light bars are branch magnets. I think SOR or manafre was selling a basket for roof rack lights
just my 2cent
Jason
 
No I don't use the roof rack that much but it's staying put. Bought it and I'm going to use it. Milage isn't a factor, let's face facts here.
I don't wheel all that much unfortunatly, but the rack has come in very handy loading sleds and snow boards for the snow.
Not sure why all the resistence on the roof rack. I'm migrating towards the 'safari' look. Though the snorkel isn't in the cards quite yet.
Just my preference.
I might try the rear hatch approach with the drip loop. Don't want to chop any holes in the roof as of yet.
Thanks for the input, keep em' comming.
Russ :cool:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom