Roof Rack Delete
- Thread starter Will Van
- Start date
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I do 5-10 minutes between coats of primer.
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #24
Actually, it dries super-quick. I’m going to give it another 5 min, then apply paint. If you let it sit, you also run the risk of getting it dirty.
- Dupli-Color Primer/Filler
- Dupli-Color “Perfect Match” Toyota Beige Metallic
- Dupli-Color “Perfect Match” Clear Coat
Thanks for sharing this. I shall use the same approach.
Never thought about keeping the rails. Assuming they dont interfere with any/some/most potential racks in the future? I dont really want one currently but if I can leave them on and be able to install a rack at some point over the rails it would be good information. Thanks again.
Never thought about keeping the rails. Assuming they dont interfere with any/some/most potential racks in the future? I dont really want one currently but if I can leave them on and be able to install a rack at some point over the rails it would be good information. Thanks again.
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #26
Thanks for sharing this. I shall use the same approach.
No sweat! I'm not going to mess with the rails yet, just because the rack removal is a bunch of work. Maybe down the line.
But my truck barely fits in the garage with the roof rack on. And I knew they were a rust liability. So I decided to pull them.
I just finished deleting my factory roof rack and patching up holes with new SS hardware. I am fortunate enough my rig is a AZ car and zero rust around the bolt holes. The only problem i had was 3 out of 8 nutserts were spinning freely and i was able to remove the factory screw by gently apply upward force on the factory rack and unscrew at the same time, and it worked. I ended up using a nutsert tool to pull the existing loose nutsert closer to the sheet metal and stop them from spinning. Then i use a combination of EPDM washers, stainless steel M5 bolts and SS finished washer and 3m sealant to finish off. I didnt get a chance to deal with the paint chips caused by the factory roof rack feet, but most likely just plasti dip around the area for additional waterproofing.
The first one is painted. Color match isn’t great, but it’s better than the rusty mess that was there previously. Plus, it on the roof. No one will ever see it.
Three more to go. Then nutserts after it cures.
Looks pretty good! At least it will be functionally sound and like you say, nobody will ever see it. If you need to do any more touch-up in areas that will be more visible, I would look into getting the paint code matched rattle can like I mentioned earlier.
I wouldn't sell yourself short though if the need to do more touch-up arises. I can tell that you are a pretty smart guy that takes a methodical and meticulous approach to doing things. Body work is certainly an art, but if you do your research and work on your skills, you might surprise yourself with what you can do with the right prep work, masking technique and a rattle can of exact match paint. You could practice on trying to revive the clear coat on that Tacoma you posted earlier.
I had one of the city's trees shed a large branch and fall on my little Tacoma last summer. I only had it insured with liability coverage so my only option was to try to get the city to pay the $3000 to get it fixed. By the time it became clear that wasn't going to happen, it was already November and I ended up just doing a home job to repair it. It's by no means perfect and I will likely go back and do a little more filler work and paint the whole roof and hood when I install a new(used) one this spring. It looks OK though and I was doing it in less than ideal conditions with temps in the low 40s. Paying someone $3000 out of pocket to fix a $4500 truck just wasn't worth it to me. The paint I used was identical to the original color, but the truck had already had some work done prior to my owning it and it the color they used was off. That's why the roof is a poor match.
Meh, whaddya gonna do? It is too bad though. The truck is pretty much mint other than that. It's from AZ and still 100% rust free since I have been coating it with Fluid Film and bar chain oil twice per year in the five years I have had it up here. It's also a rare model for here. Toyota didn't market the extended cab, 2WD, five speeds in the north. There are very, very few around up here and mine is by far the nicest one that I have seen. It's a work truck now though, after the accident.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Yes, it's always needed. It not only "inhibits" rust, but it gives the primer something extra to hang on to.
I am not sure about that. I would be worried about the metal having rust on the underside, but what he had there was pretty clean and the good primers will hold on that. I haven't had any paint peeling or bubbling on parts that looked as clean as what Will had there, but the underside could make something crop up in the future.
SOLD and SENT in less than an hour!
I have an extra set of 80 series roof rail elimination hardware that I would pass along for $50 shipped if someone is in need.
For more info see: 80 Series Roofrack Elimination Hardware - https://absolute-wits-end.com/80-series-roofrack-elimination-hardware/
Scott
I have an extra set of 80 series roof rail elimination hardware that I would pass along for $50 shipped if someone is in need.
For more info see: 80 Series Roofrack Elimination Hardware - https://absolute-wits-end.com/80-series-roofrack-elimination-hardware/
Scott
Last edited:
I'll take em! sent you a message
For those of you who have eliminated the Factory Roof Rack, do any of you still have yours stored somewhere? Mine is missing 2 end caps (mostly the part that covers the bolts/spacers) and is in pretty rough shape. So, I'm looking for a whole new one or some parts at least. If so, please PM me. Thx!
