Rhino liner for undercoat?

[odinskind]

My truck has a good amount of under body rust. I've been torn on whether I should try to do the rust removal myself and coat with rattle cans or pay a shop to do the job.

Only problem with me doing it is I will literally have to do it in the parking lot of a hotel and all my tools and basically everything I own is on a boat right now.

I brought it to a very impressive custom paint and body shop today and I was quoted 1800 for complete rust removal using needle scaler and acid and then rhino liner protection. Does this sound like a fair price?

 

[wardharris]

My truck has a good amount of under body rust. I've been torn on whether I should try to do the rust removal myself and coat with rattle cans or pay a shop to do the job.

Only problem with me doing it is I will literally have to do it in the parking lot of a hotel and all my tools and basically everything I own is on a boat right now.

I brought it to a very impressive custom paint and body shop today and I was quoted 1800 for complete rust removal using needle scaler and acid and then rhino liner protection. Does this sound like a fair price?

I paid $450 for descale and Line-X in the bed/box of my Tacoma. Very happy with the results.

Seems that your bid is reasonable for a much larger and more detailed prep and install.

 

[Narkhelek]

I'm wondering if rhino lining may be risky fix. If there is any water intrusion it could hold the water against the metal which could actually make things worse. I don't have any specific knowledge if this is a real concern just something that popped in to my head.

If you want to prevent things from getting any worse until you figure what to do, I would recommend just spraying everything down with either Blast Corrosion Stop or Fluid Film. Just be warned that you don't want to get either on any clothing you like because it will permanently stain any cloth it comes in contact with.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

I have Line-X on my entire 200s body. First off Line-X is a far superior product than Rhino liner, and I wouldn't spend my hard earned money on Rhino liner. If want more info I could go into that more.

Now are you talking the frame or the body?
For frame, @Narkhelek is right, you don't want to trap water. Now with line-X products, you won't get water trapped under the material should it get damaged. The real issue is that the frame needs its drain holes to, well, get that water out.

When guys like Shutt industries line-X their trailer frames, it's sprayed with nothing, and I mean nothing on the frame.

In my opinion, you would have to completely remover the frame to see any positive effect from a coating like that. If just trying to spray what you can see from the bottom, you will just be plugging various drainage holes and keeping the top ones open. If anything you would most likely be adding to rust issues.

The body is the same, if you actually want to protect it, you have to get a clean coating on it, not a side overspray blast. I've completely Line-X my last two trucks, but I removed the body from the frame to do it right. Anything short, I think you are wasting your money. Remember rust usually doesn't form on the easy to get to places, its the deep hard to get to places that water is trapped and that requires some real work to do it right.

As you can see I love this stuff. Rock Crawler to Overlander

 

[odinskind]

I have Line-X on my entire 200s body. First off Line-X is a far superior product than Rhino liner, and I wouldn't spend my hard earned money on Rhino liner. If want more info I could go into that more.

Now are you talking the frame or the body?
For frame, @Narkhelek is right, you don't want to trap water. Now with line-X products, you won't get water trapped under the material should it get damaged. The real issue is that the frame needs its drain holes to, well, get that water out.

When guys like Shutt industries line-X their trailer frames, it's sprayed with nothing, and I mean nothing on the frame.

In my opinion, you would have to completely remover the frame to see any positive effect from a coating like that. If just trying to spray what you can see from the bottom, you will just be plugging various drainage holes and keeping the top ones open. If anything you would most likely be adding to rust issues.

The body is the same, if you actually want to protect it, you have to get a clean coating on it, not a side overspray blast. I've completely Line-X my last two trucks, but I removed the body from the frame to do it right. Anything short, I think you are wasting your money. Remember rust usually doesn't form on the easy to get to places, its the deep hard to get to places that water is trapped and that requires some real work to do it right.

View attachment 1409253
View attachment 1409254

As you can see I love this stuff. Rock Crawler to Overlander

Wow very impressive job on your 200. I unfortunately can't go as extensively as you have. I would love to tear the truck apart and rebuild it but I just don't have the space (living in a hotel). I don't have the $$$$ to pay a shop to take the body off of the frame either. Can you recommend my best course of action given my current limitations (reliant on a shop)?

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Line-X is pretty amazing stuff. I hope I didn't come off as trying to show off, was trying to emphasize that certain products require certain applications to get results, and that I didn't want you to spend $1800 on a half done right job.

So yes, there are a lot of products out there, many people have good results with their personal trucks with everything from POR-15 to Eastman products to electronic rust inhibitors (which if done right do work) to jeep guys spraying their frames down with stuff before wheeling.

For me, working in shops, I found what worked the best, and for the longest, was to simply mechanically remove the rust (scrapping it off) then a rub down of anything with phosphoric acid (coke and pepsi have it in it, that why they eat battery acid and rust, and why I won't drink it) then a good industrial enamel primer and a good enamel industrial enamel paint. I like Rustoleum industrial enamel products. I've restored frames that just had surface rust on customers trucks (like yours), to have them show up 6-8 years later with the paint still protecting, but needing to be resprayed. That is in the rust belt of the US.

If the shop you can use can do their clean up like you mentioned, then basically repaint with a good enamel. You will be a pretty good place. Plus if you scrap your frame and a little rust forms, you can get a phosphoric acid and enamel spray paint of semi-gloss black from any parts store and touch up yourself.

If anyone says, "well just paint X product on, it works great" I would be skeptical. A good protective paint job is only as good as its prep work. I've seen POR-15 still let frames and body panels deteriorate away. So i can't emphasize enough, rust needs to be removed from mechanical and chemical ways, then just a good enamel paint.

 

[40Man]

Line-X is pretty amazing stuff. I hope I didn't come off as trying to show off, was trying to emphasize that certain products require certain applications to get results, and that I didn't want you to spend $1800 on a half done right job.

So yes, there are a lot of products out there, many people have good results with their personal trucks with everything from POR-15 to Eastman products to electronic rust inhibitors (which if done right do work) to jeep guys spraying their frames down with stuff before wheeling.

For me, working in shops, I found what worked the best, and for the longest, was to simply mechanically remove the rust (scrapping it off) then a rub down of anything with phosphoric acid (coke and pepsi have it in it, that why they eat battery acid and rust, and why I won't drink it) then a good industrial enamel primer and a good enamel industrial enamel paint. I like Rustoleum industrial enamel products. I've restored frames that just had surface rust on customers trucks (like yours), to have them show up 6-8 years later with the paint still protecting, but needing to be resprayed. That is in the rust belt of the US.

If the shop you can use can do their clean up like you mentioned, then basically repaint with a good enamel. You will be a pretty good place. Plus if you scrap your frame and a little rust forms, you can get a phosphoric acid and enamel spray paint of semi-gloss black from any parts store and touch up yourself.

If anyone says, "well just paint X product on, it works great" I would be skeptical. A good protective paint job is only as good as its prep work. I've seen POR-15 still let frames and body panels deteriorate away. So i can't emphasize enough, rust needs to be removed from mechanical and chemical ways, then just a good enamel paint.

I agree Line-x is awesome. I have had Rhino and Line-x, and the Rhino was ok, but the Line-x was much stronger. For bumpers, frame, line-x is definitely superior, and less likely to fade. I had the line-x on a Expedition One Bumper on my Tundra. It was really tough, and 0 fading over the 3 years I had it.

If ingesting phosphoric acids (phosphates) is a concern, you should stop eating meat and dairy products too. The amount of phosphates American's ingest from cola pales in comparison to what we ingest from meat and dairy (Google Center for Science in the Public Interest or CSPI phospate for more info).

I agree we shouldn't drink Cola, or any soft drinks for that matter, but I'm more concerned with the sugar, aspartame, chemicals and food coloring. That's why I stick to beer.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

I agree Line-x is awesome. I have had Rhino and Line-x, and the Rhino was ok, but the Line-x was much stronger. For bumpers, frame, line-x is definitely superior, and less likely to fade. I had the line-x on a Expedition One Bumper on my Tundra. It was really tough, and 0 fading over the 3 years I had it.

If ingesting phosphoric acids (phosphates) is a concern, you should stop eating meat and dairy products too. The amount of phosphates American's ingest from cola pales in comparison to what we ingest from meat and dairy (Google Center for Science in the Public Interest or CSPI phospate for more info).

I agree we shouldn't drink Cola, or any soft drinks for that matter, but I'm more concerned with the sugar, aspartame, chemicals and food coloring. That's why I stick to beer.

whoo, did we just jump to healthy eating? I guess I had it coming, haha. I'm not to worried about someone adding phosphates to my meat. I hunt and kill 95% of my meat. I stay away from groceries stores, and grow almost all my own food. Combined that will all i do for proper gut health, I'm always learning though. I grew up in 3 places, an automative machine shop, a farm, and a ranch. So you and I brother are exactly on the same page.

And speaking of on the same page. Yea when I started really researching these polyuria coating, that's where I found how superior Line-X is than Rhino. Had Rhino linings on my old tacoma and it faded and cracked in 6months. The picture of that FJ above is 5 years old, and that sat in the west texas sun. Pretty good stuff.

 

[40Man]

whoo, did we just jump to healthy eating? I guess I had it coming, haha. I'm not to worried about someone adding phosphates to my meat. I hunt and kill 95% of my meat. I stay away from groceries stores, and grow almost all my own food. Combined that will all i do for proper gut health, I'm always learning though. I grew up in 3 places, an automative machine shop, a farm, and a ranch. So you and I brother are exactly on the same page.

And speaking of on the same page. Yea when I started really researching these polyuria coating, that's where I found how superior Line-X is than Rhino. Had Rhino linings on my old tacoma and it faded and cracked in 6months. The picture of that FJ above is 5 years old, and that sat in the west texas sun. Pretty good stuff.

I am actually the opposite. So much crap in food, I figure I will just eat what I enjoy.

I also had Rhino in a Tacoma. Faded quickly, cracked, and chunks would come off. I did like how soft it was for kneeling in the bed, but that was about it.

When I eventually buy bumpers and sliders, they will get line-x for sure. More expensive than powder coat, but more durable too.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

I am actually the opposite. So much crap in food, I figure I will just eat what I enjoy.

I also had Rhino in a Tacoma. Faded quickly, cracked, and chunks would come off. I did like how soft it was for kneeling in the bed, but that was about it.

When I eventually buy bumpers and sliders, they will get line-x for sure. More expensive than powder coat, but more durable too.

haha, well read that wrong! I obviously like line-x, but i won't coat any armor with it. Line-x is fine for general impacts, but it will rip off on a rock. Then it will be a pain to repair, have to take it to someone, and they have to remove and start over. I just paint with, like mentioned earlier, enamel spray paint. Now if you have heavy bumpers and sliders, and don't offroad, just want it for looks, then yea line-x makes more sense.

 

[40Man]

haha, well read that wrong! I obviously like line-x, but i won't coat any armor with it. Line-x is fine for general impacts, but it will rip off on a rock. Then it will be a pain to repair, have to take it to someone, and they have to remove and start over. I just paint with, like mentioned earlier, enamel spray paint. Now if you have heavy bumpers and sliders, and don't offroad, just want it for looks, then yea line-x makes more sense.

I used to paint my armor, but got tired of constant touch ups. After trying linex I was sold. Took some pretty hard hits with minimal damage. My linex guy did cheap touch ups for me.

To protect my sliders, and add traction, I mounted cut bike tubes on them. Took some hard rock strikes with no touch up needed. Not my pic, but it gives the idea. Good use for my old tires, and they provided surprising protection.