Rewind: Front Blower Out (Heat/AC) (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 20, 2020
Threads
6
Messages
24
Location
LEX KY
Back to the drawing board:

Trying to get my LC together before I put it up for sale - got a good opportunity on a Lexus LX 470 that im going to take. I am trying to break even so I think its critical I get the heat/ac fixed.

Issue: Front AC/Heat not blowing on my LC 100, 03' 250K.

I had this "fixed" back in Nov - worked for 6 mo, but were back. AC amp and blower fuse replaced to my knowledge.

Any recommended threads or notes on this? I have tagged this in here before-sorry for doublepossting.


Other Notes:
  1. Rear Heat/AC blower works.
  2. Its okay on the interstate. Hot & Cold air blow out front on fresh mode.
  3. Its not okay idle or stop & go. Even though blower is off, the AC light blinks when stopped.
  4. We had a sudden cold spell that came in and it stopped working. Not sure if it relates but notable.

Also - The blower did work at one point today on the interstate. I was cruising in Fresh mode AC High and hit the RECIRC button, and it was going smooth. I turned it back to fresh mode to be safe, got to the intersection tried again and no luck. Inconsistent.

Any way, were going to get the multimeter out but if any one has a similar issue or has anything to add, id appreciate. Want to see if we can figure it out before I take it to the shop that worked on it previously or a LC specialist in TN.

Thank you all!
 
Pretty sure 02 was the last year of the electric auxilliary fan? So the only cooling air comes from the mechanical engine fan. If your AC is a bit over-charged, and your fan clutch is a little weak, the extra temp at idle could cause the pressure to go up enough to cause the pressure switch to cut it out. That would explain why it works with the extra air flowing over the condenser when you are moving.

Get some manifold guages and check, or take it to a competent automotive AC shop to check.

ALSO - get a wire brush and make sure the positive and negative battery poles, the battery cable ends, and the brass on the fuse block connector, are bright and shiny. Then CRANK the battery terminals down. Temperature changes like a cold snap makes metal expand and contract, and could indicate you aren't getting the best positive or negative at the battery. That voltage differential from the battery to the speed relay on the compressor can cause it to think the compressor has a problem and it will disconnect the AC clutch.

If I was betting, I'd bet a voltage differential, since the AC light is blinking.
 
Pretty sure 02 was the last year of the electric auxilliary fan? So the only cooling air comes from the mechanical engine fan. If your AC is a bit over-charged, and your fan clutch is a little weak, the extra temp at idle could cause the pressure to go up enough to cause the pressure switch to cut it out. That would explain why it works with the extra air flowing over the condenser when you are moving.

Get some manifold guages and check, or take it to a competent automotive AC shop to check.

ALSO - get a wire brush and make sure the positive and negative battery poles, the battery cable ends, and the brass on the fuse block connector, are bright and shiny. Then CRANK the battery terminals down. Temperature changes like a cold snap makes metal expand and contract, and could indicate you aren't getting the best positive or negative at the battery. That voltage differential from the battery to the speed relay on the compressor can cause it to think the compressor has a problem and it will disconnect the AC clutch.

If I was betting, I'd bet a voltage differential, since the AC light is blinking.
Thank you - ill report back with what we find.
 

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