Rering 3VZ-E??

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PurpleFJ62

PurpleFJ62

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Nov 23, 2006
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58
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802
Location
DFW
Hi all, I am talking my beater 4runner to college at the end of the month and I am concerned about the amount of oil its burning. Has been burning for awhile, but the problem seems to be growing faster and faster. Its got 190,000 miles on it and the body is trashed. Which is a good thing, because my school is in flint michigan, not the place where you want to have a nice truck.

I am not looking for a full rebuild, I am shure it needs it. The engine runs great, no knocking sounds at all, even after sitting in the cold for weeks. So the bearings are probally ok.

From my understanding I can pull the heads and take the rod/piston out the top, then tape over all holes and hone the cylinders with one of those things that goes on a drill, to break the glaze, then scuff with sand paper, not shure on the grit? Probally 180-240?? Then put the cleanded rod/piston back in with new rings and call it good.

From your experience with engines what wears more, the rings or cyl walls. I expect tje rings to almost be gone, how much will the bores have opened up? Will the bottom still be circular? I guess I could take the block out and get it bored, but if I was going to do that I would want a 5vz-fe in there with the s/c.

thanks for any help.
 
How much oil is it burning? It could be valve guides. The cylinders on toyotas are made from very hard steel. They are much harder than a US made engine and usually don't wear very much.
 
I am glad to hear toyota uses good material in their engine blocks. Oil consumption is around 1/2 quart per 200 miles. I have not been real scientific in documenting it, but its defintally burning some.

What uasually goes first on a 3VZ, the rings or valve guides/seals?
thanks
 
PurpleFJ62 said:
I am glad to hear toyota uses good material in their engine blocks. Oil consumption is around 1/2 quart per 200 miles. I have not been real scientific in documenting it, but its defintally burning some.

What uasually goes first on a 3VZ, the rings or valve guides/seals?
thanks
Click to expand...

Sounds more like its leaking past the rear seal on the engine and into the tranny bell housing, which is what happens some on my 22R.

It won't drip outside the engine, it just goes there, then god knows what happens.

Try adding a stop leak to your oil and possibly a heavier oil, I've been running 20W-50 in my truck for a while (though it is summer in Idaho) and its really cut down on oil loss. You'll burn less too.

10W-40 maybe?
 
the first thing to go on a 3vz is almost always a head gasket but you would know if it was that. i would get a leak down tester to tell you where you're loosing compression and most likely oil. it's basicly a compression tester with a hookup to an aircompressor to keep constant pressure and an extra gauge to tell you how much compression you're loosing. just hook it up and listen through the dipstick to see if it's leaking through the rings or head gasket. listen through the tailpipe for a leaky exhaust valve and i think through the throttle body for leaking from the intake valves. it's a very handy tool so i would invest in one. i agree with curse in putting heavier weight oil in there and some stop leak. is it smoking any? on my 22R i just honed my cylinder walls a little just to scuff em up and put the new rings on and drove it easy for a little to break em in.
 
I would like to get a leek down tester here in the future and try it out. The heavier oil is a good idea as well. This winter it will be cold here in michigan and I am not shure what oil to run. Uasually I run 5W-30 in the winter and 10W-30 in the summer.

Thanks for all the advice, I will try to find a leek down tester, can someone chime in and reccomend a brand to get. Or a place to get one, I know my local parts place has never herd of them. Go figure...:mad:

thanks again :beer:
 
i'll go out and look at mine. we got ours online so i'll see if i can figure it out. it was a kind of cheap one thought but it works.
 
Leak down testers are great, if you want to know how bad of a leak you have, but the important thing is where the leak is. Just set the cylinder at TDC and hit the spark plug hole with an air compressor and have someone listen. If it's hissing at the tail pipe then it's an exhaust valve, if it's the intake, then an intake valve, if it's the oil fill hole, then rings, if it's bubling out of the radiator then it's a headgasket.
 
how much pressure is safe to put in the engine, my air comprossor will go to 130psi, should I put an inline regulator to limit that to something alot lower, like 20-30psi?
thanks again.
 
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