Report on upgrade Hella bulbs - first trip (1 Viewer)

[CDN_Cruiser]

[quote author=IdahoDoug link=board=2;threadid=4871;start=msg37769#msg37769 date=1062657785]
As for heat load, I've always been mindful not to have the high beams on while stationary (setting up a tent, for instance) unless it was quite cold outside (lighting up a sledding hill). I've never had any overheat symptom on this or the dozens of prior vehicles I've added upgrade bulbs to. The one exception would be the time I put a 130W bulb in a Hella 3000 Euro Beam and stood in front of it. I literally ran back to the switch because it created a warm circle on my chest a few feet away and I knew it was not long for the world. The bulb (w/ 18 seconds of use) still resides on my shelf.
[/quote]

Just a point of clarification, the reason to upgrade the harness is (1) to deliver full voltage to the lights so they actually produce the watts indicated on the bulb (without the harness you can be quite sure that the 100W bulb is not producing 100W) and (2) the 'overheating' is generally not an issue of the bulb being too hot (although this can be a problem with plastic lens covers - a few fellow BMW Motorcycle riders have melted tail light lens covers with higher intensity bulbs) - the issue is the connections not being up to the additional load (ie switches, connections, wiring). The thinner wire = more resistance = more heat build-up = overheated components/brittle wires/shorts/etc. The upgraded harnesses have biefier components to reduce this risk, although the stock harness can probably survive (but not address point #1)

You can probably get a sense of the problem by running your high beams for some time (1hr) and then hopping out and checking the temp of the wires running to the light. If I'm not mistaken, if you have a 65W light running at 13V = ~5Amps vs 100W at 13V = 7.7Amps = ~54% increase

Cheers, Hugh

 

[IdahoDoug]

Hugh,

Righto. My "wow, that's HOT" comment speaks only to the bulb heat/output, but it serves notice that we're playing with fire sometimes putting higher wattage bulbs in. Sometimes it works out fine if used underway (airflow keeping wiring/headlamp assy and connectors cooler), but at a standstill it can get really hot. Playing with an IR temp gun the other day, I recorded a 143 degree headlamp surface on a new Nissan 350Z that I'd just parked. Wonder what it would have been if I let it idle with the low beams on...

Also, your taillight comment reminded me that I've been using halogen rear blinkers and brakelights for 10 years. Put them in in '93 and they're still running. I believe they're Hella halogen replacements. When following the 80 at night, it is clear the brake and turn signals are much brighter than stock - on the verge of annoying at a stoplight. I'll take a bit of flak for slight annoyance in return for the greater rearward safety they provide, however.

In fact, counting the 4 Hella headlamp bulbs, the 4 rear halogen replacements, the Hella map light, the rear roof mounted twin beam Hella FF worklamp, the Hella 4000 fogs, and the Hella rear fog lamp, I should be getting some kind of advertising revenue from Hella! Hmm....wonder if Hella makes upgrade instrument lighting?........

IdahoDoug

 

[DRTDuck]

Idaho-

Got any pics of your rig, specifically the rear? I have been considering adding some rear fogs and/or work lights, would be interested in your layout.

 

[IdahoDoug]

I have digital pics, but to post to this site I have to have them somewhere on a server, right? Anyhow the lights are no big deal, and if you like lights then they'll look cool on your rig, too.

The Hella rear fog hangs under the bumper against the hitch's left edge (for protection) and the wire runs up through a rubber body plug into the jack space where I've run a heavy 10G wire. It has a dedicated relay thrown by a lighted rocker switch in one of the switch blanks beside the rear heater switch.

The Hella FF work lamp (highly recommend this, as you can even choose your beam pattern from 3 available) uses the Hella sheetmetal mounting bracket to attach to the roof's rear edge. This mount is crucial, and a good Hella stockist can locate them (I use http://www.puma-access.com/). Otherwise, you're faced with mounting it with a single heavy bolt through the roof - no workie. This mount also lets you swivel the light from side to side, something I often do on SAR missions as it floods anything beside the road as you drive with bright illumination. The light itself can be swivelled up and down as well for a nice flexible lighting solution, and will fold down if struck. Anyhow, there's a perfect spot for it where the hatch can open fully, yet not forward so far it rises up to interfere with anything on the roof rack. It is also wired into the jack space and switched on the other side of the roof heater switch. Legally, it's supposed to be inoperable unless in reverse, so keep this in mind. I've used mine a couple times for boneheads that, for one reason or another, felt I needed to see their feeble high beams up close behind me. I have found that this breed of person looks funny with their face scrunched up and eyes all squinty as they hit the brakes. Must be the gene pool.

IdahoDoug

 

[CDN_Cruiser]

[quote author=IdahoDoug link=board=2;threadid=4871;start=msg38410#msg38410 date=1062816686]
I've used mine a couple times for boneheads that, for one reason or another, felt I needed to see their feeble high beams up close behind me. I have found that this breed of person looks funny with their face scrunched up and eyes all squinty as they hit the brakes. Must be the gene pool.
[/quote]

he, he, he, I love it! My brother told me that he was once in a cab that had an aircraft landing light facing to the rear - now that's one crazy *#$@% &*^%!

I also have a rear work light that I have on a mount on my roof racks. I can leave it on the racks or, by removing one nut, take the light off and just have the bracket.

Cheers, Hugh

 

[Beowulf]

Doug,
You can post pics as attachments. You might need to resize to get down to 80KB and the format needs to be jpg, gif, or png. IRFANVIEW is a freebie that will convert to these image formats and resize.

You really need to post a pic of your rear work light. The verbiage helps but a picture is worth a thou....



-B-

 

[scottm]

[quote author=Beowulf link=board=2;threadid=4871;start=msg38432#msg38432 date=1062824545]You can post pics as attachments. You might need to resize to get down to 80KB and the format needs to be jpg, gif, or png.[/quote]I think 80k is just for your "personalized picture". I've just been clicking "Browse" at the bottom of "post reply", locating the pic on my computer, and selecting it.

 

[ELLTEE]

[quote author=CDN_Cruiser link=board=2;threadid=4871;start=msg38418#msg38418 date=1062817485]
I also have a rear work light that I have on a mount on my roof racks. I can leave it on the racks or, by removing one nut, take the light off and just have the bracket.

Cheers, Hugh
[/quote]

Does that bracket throw a lot of light by itself?

LT

 

[IdahoDoug]

I was wondering about that. I have one pic of it, but I used PhotoShop to reduce it and lower the res and ended up with a tiny and blurry picture to get to 80k. Let's see if this works:

This shot is looking up at it. Viewed from the side, the lamp folds down below the height of the factory roof rack with out interfering with the upper hatch. I also have a roof box, and it does not interfere with it either. I'll see if this works, then take a better shot if so.

IdahoDoug

 

[Beowulf]

Doug,
The attached picture came out fine. See if you can get a close up of the bracket, the wiring, and how you have it attached to the vehicle. I'm very interested in this mod. Mine has the rear wind deflector and I'm thinking of attaching one or more lights to it. Your way seems better.

Thanks!
-B-

 

[IdahoDoug]

Wolfy,

How's this:

This is with the light folded. There are 3 wires coming through the roof - a power to each of the twin 55w bulbs, and a ground. I tried using a grommet, but it did not survive long. Now, I just use silicone and replace it every 5 years or so. The wires drop along the headliner and down into the jack space. I thought about the wind deflector - getting one and using it - but the light ends up in a vulnerable spot up high and rearward. Over the 8 years I've had it in this spot, I have never found the location wanting.

IdahoDoug

 

[DRTDuck]

I-Doug-

Thanks for sharing the picks of the work light. I like B have been cosidering puting one or more on the rear wind deflector, will have to consider this route.

Not be too much of pest, but do you have a photo of the rear fogs you described abovee? That would be great.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Tried posting this earlier, but got rejected due to size. Here's a smaller version. This is a Hella lamp. They make two styles - one a larger plastic style and this more compact metal one. It's reasonably well protected here, but when I wheel, I have a quick disconnect and remove the lamp. (edit: Not sure why it looks so crooked, must be the camera on closeup. It's perfectly aligned in real life!)

I have an 80 for all weather mobility and sometimes end up in some amazing conditions up here. This is like a red laser beam from behind and cuts through blowing snow, fog, etc to give me peace of mind in foul weather.

IdahoDoug

 

[DRTDuck]

Thanks for the pic. Have you consider cutting a hole and mounting them with/in the bumper plastic end pieces?

 

[IdahoDoug]

Yeah, also considered getting some stock German rear fogs that mount in the tailgate. Both these would end up with me having to deal with the raw edges of cutting holes in some way, however. Sticking them in the bumper sounds good, but the reality of dealing with a provision for finished looking edges outweighed it. Keep in mind the plastic bumperette's surface does not squarely face backward, which brings in the need to aim it properly within the bumper, etc. This spot has served me well for about 9 years, though I did smash one when I forgot about it while on a local trail (see marks in pic above light). Aesthetically the light looks fine and is actually more compact than my poor up close photo might indicate.

IdahoDoug

 

[DRTDuck]

IDoug-

These may work for the in the bumper option.

http://www.mps-shop.com/PickupSuvs/...JS9LVSMAUEPPQDM6608808&pf_id=191&dept_id=5300

 

[IdahoDoug]

That's a great alternative, however I was concerned about aiming the unit properly. These rear fog lamps are extremely directional, unlike a taillamp which can merely point generally rearward to be effective. As far as I can tell, no arrangement for fine tuning the aim is provided for on these surface mount lamps. The pendant style I use can be perfectly aimed and functions best to me.

IdahoDoug