I have never had good luck with gaskets before and I am open to any advice. I'm startin' this weekend on the LX450. I know some of you have trucks that don't leak...
How do you do that?
How do you do that?
Replacing Oil Pan Gasket
- Thread starter Tooth Fairy
- Start date
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Toof,
You need to figure out what's leaking first. Upper or lower oil pan?? .. if your sure it's an oil pan. If it's the lower, pretty easy. Pull the 17 or so bolts, use putty knife or something to break the pan loose, spray edges with gasket remover and schrub with solvent(make sure all surfaces are clean as new). Apply FIPG, slap it on and rebolt. If it's to upper, buy an FSM, search for "arch" "pan" "leak", as this falls in the "beat-to-death" category. If you have questions after that, post them up.
BTW, no magic tricks to preventing leaks. Regular PM, normal care.. and if she leaks.. she leaks. Time to fixxy.
Rookie2
You need to figure out what's leaking first. Upper or lower oil pan?? .. if your sure it's an oil pan. If it's the lower, pretty easy. Pull the 17 or so bolts, use putty knife or something to break the pan loose, spray edges with gasket remover and schrub with solvent(make sure all surfaces are clean as new). Apply FIPG, slap it on and rebolt. If it's to upper, buy an FSM, search for "arch" "pan" "leak", as this falls in the "beat-to-death" category. If you have questions after that, post them up.
BTW, no magic tricks to preventing leaks. Regular PM, normal care.. and if she leaks.. she leaks. Time to fixxy.
Rookie2
- Thread starter
- #3
The Lexus dealer told her it was the rear main, but, after spending some time here searching and gathering I am going with just the pan at this point. I really don't feel like pulling the tranny to get at that.
Thanks for the input R2!
Thanks for the input R2!
I let everything leak as it helps undercoat the truck for the NE winters
I only fix them when its pouring out . If its just wet or a drop or two overnight its one less thing to rust
I only fix them when its pouring out . If its just wet or a drop or two overnight its one less thing to rust
- Thread starter
- #5
K, No doubt. And that is the state of my 80. I've actually got quite a few leaks on mine that I keep a close watch on the fluid levels. None are really very bad, I never have any drips, but as soon as they start pouring out I am gonna do somethin' about it for sure. 
I fthis thing was mine I don't think I would worry about it, but, the dripping seems to concern her.
I fthis thing was mine I don't think I would worry about it, but, the dripping seems to concern her.
my understanding is it is usually the upper pan arch that leaks, the upper pan is considerably more work than the lower including lifting to motor of its mounts,
if it is just a little leak I would leave it be for now
if it is just a little leak I would leave it be for now
Toof,
These guys are on the money. The upper pan job is pretty big. After 8 hrs into it and racking my brain on how to get the pan out, I was
myself for F'n with a small oil seepage that wasn't even accumulating enough to drip on the garage floor. Anyways, I finally got the right combination of raising the engine, lowering the front axle, and removing pieces and parts to get the damn thing out.
I would probably leave it be, but if you decide to tackle it, I'll be glad to tell you everything I did, which will save you some time trying to figure it out. BTW, first thing you're going to need is an engine hoist.
Rookie2
These guys are on the money. The upper pan job is pretty big. After 8 hrs into it and racking my brain on how to get the pan out, I was
myself for F'n with a small oil seepage that wasn't even accumulating enough to drip on the garage floor. Anyways, I finally got the right combination of raising the engine, lowering the front axle, and removing pieces and parts to get the damn thing out.I would probably leave it be, but if you decide to tackle it, I'll be glad to tell you everything I did, which will save you some time trying to figure it out. BTW, first thing you're going to need is an engine hoist.
Rookie2
The engine does need to be lifted off of the front mounts about 2 inches. The sway bar and LH sway bar mounting bracket will also have to come out. This job is much better tackled with a hoist.
R
robbie
Guest
The obvious is that your engine is different. But the front cross bar creates a problem for removing the pan. I have not done a 3fe pan in a 80 but lots in the FJ60-62, You have a cork gasket. The 1FZ uses FIPG sealant to create a seal. I would still think you would have to remove the sway bar, loosen the front motor mounts, jack up engine before the pan would clear the cross member. Yes the axle may need to be lowered or the frame supported by large jack stands to help either endever. A propane torch used with patiance will loosen either oil pan that is stuck fast to the block. later robbie
Hey Robbie
I know I am asking the question in a 1fz thread, But all of my searching and I haven't found a thread on the 3fe, I forgot to mention removing the sway bar. So has anyone done the 3fe? Am I off base in thinking,
Remove sway bar and rear link bar for the stearing nuckles and ? Will it clear? do I need to lift motor. I am trying to line up all the tools ahead of time, they are sometimes hard to get my hands on in my small town. Has anyone done the gasket on the 3FE?
Steven
I know I am asking the question in a 1fz thread, But all of my searching and I haven't found a thread on the 3fe, I forgot to mention removing the sway bar. So has anyone done the 3fe? Am I off base in thinking,
Remove sway bar and rear link bar for the stearing nuckles and ? Will it clear? do I need to lift motor. I am trying to line up all the tools ahead of time, they are sometimes hard to get my hands on in my small town. Has anyone done the gasket on the 3FE?
Steven
R
robbie
Guest
how much distance do you have between the welded cross bar in the front under the engine? then measure the height of the oil pan. If the height of the oil pan is greater then the distance of the bar form the oil pan, then you will need to jack up the engine. My guess is that you will have to jack it up because this distance between the bar and the pan is not that great. later robbie
Steven, if the 3FE oil pan is like the 2F oil pan, you may as well replace the pan as the 2F is a pain to remove and my pan was rusted out where the skid plate was welded.
1FZ oil pan, I replace my rear main seal without removing the seal retainer. I dropped tranny and just replace the seal. Put the tranny back on and it leaked. My crank had a ring groove on it from the seal. Thinking it was the groove on the crank, I dropped the tranny again but removed the retainer this time.
The leak was from the retainer not the rear main seal.
Replacing the oil pans seal would of fixed all my leaks and I wouldn't of had to drop the tranny.
After I fixed the rear main leak, my front arch upper pan started to leak along with the t-chain cover and lower pan. The Rotells T sys did something to the leaks as they no longet leak.
1FZ oil pan, I replace my rear main seal without removing the seal retainer. I dropped tranny and just replace the seal. Put the tranny back on and it leaked. My crank had a ring groove on it from the seal. Thinking it was the groove on the crank, I dropped the tranny again but removed the retainer this time.
The leak was from the retainer not the rear main seal.
Replacing the oil pans seal would of fixed all my leaks and I wouldn't of had to drop the tranny.
After I fixed the rear main leak, my front arch upper pan started to leak along with the t-chain cover and lower pan. The Rotells T sys did something to the leaks as they no longet leak.
