Replacing Air Control Valve on Power Steering Pump (1 Viewer)

[Mike NXP]

The connections coming off the air control valve on the backside of the power steering pump can get brittle over time and can crack when the PS pump is being worked on / moved.

My downfall came when I moved the PS pump to access alternator, and proceed to replace belt tensioner. Possible symptoms of a failing control valve can also be a decrease in fluid , but no visible leaks, as the fluid gets sucked back into the intake and can burn up.
>> Will post pictures and procedure once parts come in and the repair is done.

I would suggest giving yours a wiggle to see if they are getting brittle, this won't leave you stranded but is a very easy repair to do.

Parts needed to replace
Valve - 17630-16040
(2) Vac lines and clips - 17030-50070

 

[shtbrwn86]

@Mike NXP Since you did this recently, maybe you can help me out? I just replaced these hoses with some OEM hoses and didn't pay attention to which hose went on which port on the valve. They look identical, but I don't know how to tell if I got them mixed up. Maybe it doesn't matter? Car drives fine, idles fine, power steering works fine...

Side note: I went with these hoses because they came with all the sheaths and plastic routing brackets, etc, but the routing is VERY tight and even though they pre-bent using the factory bracket mounts seem like it could kink these lines.

Side note 2: I see other pictures of this valve and it looks like it's oriented horizontally. Mine is vertical. This would probably put less strain on the hoses if I could just turn it. Should I just put a wrench on it and give it a quarter turn? Thanks!

 

[Escape Artist]

Following ... going to check mine this weekend.

 

[Mike NXP]

@Mike NXP Since you did this recently, maybe you can help me out? I just replaced these hoses with some OEM hoses and didn't pay attention to which hose went on which port on the valve. They look identical, but I don't know how to tell if I got them mixed up. Maybe it doesn't matter? Car drives fine, idles fine, power steering works fine...

Side note: I went with these hoses because they came with all the sheaths and plastic routing brackets, etc, but the routing is VERY tight and even though they pre-bent using the factory bracket mounts seem like it could kink these lines.

Side note 2: I see other pictures of this valve and it looks like it's oriented horizontally. Mine is vertical. This would probably put less strain on the hoses if I could just turn it. Should I just put a wrench on it and give it a quarter turn? Thanks!

I recall having to swap the hoses in the connection provided by toyota for a better fit but that may not be necessary. I will post pictures when I'm on the computer today.

The connection should be horizontal.

Will send over more info today

 

[Mike NXP]

@Mike NXP Since you did this recently, maybe you can help me out? I just replaced these hoses with some OEM hoses and didn't pay attention to which hose went on which port on the valve. They look identical, but I don't know how to tell if I got them mixed up. Maybe it doesn't matter? Car drives fine, idles fine, power steering works fine...

Side note: I went with these hoses because they came with all the sheaths and plastic routing brackets, etc, but the routing is VERY tight and even though they pre-bent using the factory bracket mounts seem like it could kink these lines.

Side note 2: I see other pictures of this valve and it looks like it's oriented horizontally. Mine is vertical. This would probably put less strain on the hoses if I could just turn it. Should I just put a wrench on it and give it a quarter turn? Thanks!

Here ya go. You can follow the short hose to the right side of the valve ( if looking from behind / this angle ) Long hose up into the harness that leads along fuel rail and then into the vac at the rear of intake manifold. Does that help?

 

[shtbrwn86]

Thanks for the picture? It looks like the valve has a little nub on once side (red arrow in my pic. Is that the side that takes the short hose? From your picture I see what might be that little nub on the long hose side but can't tell.

 

[Mike NXP]

Thanks for the picture? It looks like the valve has a little nub on once side (red arrow in my pic. Is that the side that takes the short hose? From your picture I see what might be that little nub on the long hose side but can't tell.

View attachment 2554278

To be fair I never noticed that little rascal, is it a vent of some sort or just solid material? I suspect the threads will only allow for this to be tightened down leaving it in the proper position but this may require some more thought.

I can go look at mine to see how I installed it but honestly I didn't even notice that.


Anyone out there have an original power steering pump installed?
>>Can we confirm the short hose connects from airbox to right side of valve
>> Can we confirm which side that alleged vent / nub is on ( if that even matters)

If you look at the parts blowout in my earlier post it shows the short hose going to the right side, but no signs of the nub...Maybe we are overthinking this since it's just for vacuum but I would like to figure it out as well.

 

[shtbrwn86]

I think that nub is visible in your picture connected to the long hose....

Here is a picture of the part. Showing that nub....

 

[Mike NXP]

I think that nub is visible in your picture connected to the long hose....

Here is a picture of the part. Showing that nub....

View attachment 2554299

Kind of looks like a solid piece, something happening within the valve, would you agree?

I will go look at my rig after work. I could be wrong but my thought is since this is a hydraulic fitting just snug it up by hand, put a wrench on it and apply some pressure till it feels secure. Should only really line up one way.

 

[Mike NXP]

Mine is like you initially mentioned, a bit more vertical. I probably wrenched on it a bit more than needed but no issues to note.

Here is the pic below, I would conclude just get the hoses onto the proper side, snug it up, and off ya go.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Kind of looks like a solid piece, something happening within the valve, would you agree?

I will go look at my rig after work. I could be wrong but my thought is since this is a hydraulic fitting just snug it up by hand, put a wrench on it and apply some pressure till it feels secure. Should only really line up one way.

I will go see if I can tighten it (or loosen it) to make it sit horizontal. My main concern was in the vertical orientation the hoses bend way more than they should. To be honest the silicone hose that work much better. But it also is heat resistant and doesn't need to bend all over the place nor does it need those sheaths.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Mine is like you initially mentioned, a bit more vertical. I probably wrenched on it a bit more than needed but no issues to note.

Here is the pic below, I would conclude just get the hoses onto the proper side, snug it up, and off ya go.

View attachment 2554305

Thanks for that picture. Super helpful!

 

[Mike NXP]

I will go see if I can tighten it (or loosen it) to make it sit horizontal. My main concern was in the vertical orientation the hoses bend way more than they should. To be honest the silicone hose that work much better. But it also is heat resistant and doesn't need to bend all over the place nor does it need those sheaths.

Yeah I am tempted to mess with mine as well but will just keep it as is, I have new OEM hoses installed and holy crap they are so flexible and nice compared to the old dry rotted ones.

 

[2001LC]

I replace idle up control vacuum lines with OEM, in most every 100 series I work on. Have replaced my share of HP line assy. I've switched vacuum lines, every way you can. Haven't noticed anything change or bad! Let me know if you do?

I don't think it matters which, except for neat routing. They way post #5 show line routing is nice, with no crossover of lines. That's how I rout 99-05.

The FSM doesn't call for it! But I like to seal threads of idle up control valve with FIPG 102 or 103 (oil type).

FWIW: OEM HP/Low pressure line assy (pump to rack), comes with idle up control valve.

 

[gatormark91]

It's just a vacuum pressure switch. When it opens, it allows the manifold vacuum to be exposed to filtered air from before the throttle body. It doesn't actually matter which side you put each hose on. When the pressure switch opens, both sides are open at the same time. Creating a little vacuum leak has the same effect as opening the throttle a bit, it bumps the idle a couple hundred RPM to give it some more grunt to turn the PS pump.

I broke mine last week, ordered a Dorman replacement. I usually buy Toyota, but there isn't any need for it on this part - it's stupid simple in how it operates. And I like that the Dorman appears to be made of metal, vs. the plastic of the Toyota part.

 

[shtbrwn86]

It's just a vacuum pressure switch. When it opens, it allows the manifold vacuum to be exposed to filtered air from before the throttle body. It doesn't actually matter which side you put each hose on. When the pressure switch opens, both sides are open at the same time. Creating a little vacuum leak has the same effect as opening the throttle a bit, it bumps the idle a couple hundred RPM to give it some more grunt to turn the PS pump.

I broke mine last week, ordered a Dorman replacement. In usually buy Toyota, but there isn't any need for it on this part - it's stupid simple in how it operates. And I like that the Doorman appears to be made of metal, vs. the plastic of the Toyota part.

Thanks for such a great explanation. It does seem like a simple switch but it's nice to know what exactly it does.

 

[shtbrwn86]

So I had the airbox out and decided to try and adjust it and I loosened it a bit and some fluid came out. Did this let air into the system so now I need to bleed the system? I mean its on the list but just curious if I'm going to mess anything up driving it around with possibly a tiny bit of air.

 

[gatormark91]

So I had the airbox out and decided to try and adjust it and I loosened it a bit and some fluid came out. Did this let air into the system so now I need to bleed the system? I mean its on the list but just curious if I'm going to mess anything up driving it around with possibly a tiny bit of air.

You're fine.

 

[Mike NXP]

So I had the airbox out and decided to try and adjust it and I loosened it a bit and some fluid came out. Did this let air into the system so now I need to bleed the system? I mean its on the list but just curious if I'm going to mess anything up driving it around with possibly a tiny bit of air.

I don't think that's necessary just snug it up so the leak stops and make sure the lines are looking good

 

[xplore]

It's just a vacuum pressure switch. When it opens, it allows the manifold vacuum to be exposed to filtered air from before the throttle body. It doesn't actually matter which side you put each hose on. When the pressure switch opens, both sides are open at the same time. Creating a little vacuum leak has the same effect as opening the throttle a bit, it bumps the idle a couple hundred RPM to give it some more grunt to turn the PS pump.

I broke mine last week, ordered a Dorman replacement. I usually buy Toyota, but there isn't any need for it on this part - it's stupid simple in how it operates. And I like that the Doorman appears to be made of metal, vs. the plastic of the Toyota part.

Thanks for explaining the function and purpose of the vacuum pressure switch!

Would anyone say it's bad to drive if those vacuum lines are snapped off? I have a new one on order, but I'm trying to figure out if I should park it, or if it's no big deal other than a temporary vacuum leak.