Replaced Pads - need bleeding help ...?

[jfranke]

I just finished replacing pads on all 4 wheels (spent total of maybe $70 on parts instead of $250 - 400 at dealer). After I bled the lines pretty thoroughly, but am getting a "ssssst" noise when I press brake pedal now. Seems to be coming from under the fluid reservoir under the hood...and honestly it sounds like air in the line...? The bleeders on each wheel stream without bubbles when bled, so not sure that more bleeding will solve the noise problem, but could be wrong...?

Brakes work fine, it's just a noise problem at this point. But where there's noise, there's bound to be something un-right going on...

thanks
-jfranke.

 

[Pitbull]

Welcome, can you give some information on your 100 series, year, mileage, type of pads used. Did you do anything to the brake reservoir? Did you try to tighten any of the fitting under the reservoir? What type of brake fluid did you use? All this information will help the members help you. Again welcome to the site.

 

[jfranke]

My truck is a 98 LX470 with 75k miles. I replaced all pads with Carbon Metallic in the front and Bendix in the back - nothing particularly hi-perf as it's a family truck.

The only thing I did with the reservoir was fill it with generic DOT3 fluid.

This morning I tried re-bleeding using the tube-in-the-jar method, being sure to not the line suck air back in. Went around the wheels twice, went through another quart of fluid but didn't lose that noise. Sssst.

Didn't mention it before, but when I pulled the rear pads off, I disco'd the line from the caliper to remove the caliper completely (used bench vise to carefully compress piston). When I reassembled, I realized I had a washer in the wrong place and leaked fluid at the point of [mis]contact. Put it back together right and got no leaks.

Interested in member feedback: for my application, is DOT5 the way to go?

Thanks again

 

[1tontoy]

Not sure if this will help but,

I changed the pads on my moms 02 UZJ100. The noise you hear is normal. Hers does the same thing.

NOTE: It is not really necessary to remove the entire caliper.

Anyway, hope this helps.

 

[lovetoski]

use DOT 4

jfranke,

DOT 4 is what you want to use. Right off hand I forget the reasons, but if you do a search I know you'll find a bunch of info on this topic.

FWIW, I installed Speedbleeders on both my 60 & 80. These make it super easy to bleed the brakes solo.

Best Regards,

 

[98LXand99LC]

jfranke,
FWIW, I installed Speedbleeders on both my 60 & 80. These make it super easy to bleed the brakes solo.
QUOTE]

Are Speedbleeders available for the 100? I just checked this site out, and 100's are not listed.

https://www.speedbleeder.com/automobile_applications.htm#Toyota

 

[drohweder]

Interested in the speedbleeders. There is no info on the product itself. Can you give us the quick skinny on how it works and your experience. Cost?? Thanks

 

[lovetoski]

speedbleeder info

It seems to be a simple product. The speedbleeder is installed in place of the existing bleed screw. To use it, you unscrew it about 1/4 turn, push on the brake and out flows the fluid. When you are done, you screw it back in, just like the OEM bleed screw.

There is a spring loaded ball check that allows brake fluid to be pushed out, but won't allow any air back in. If you put a clear plastic hose onto the speedbleeder, 3-4 feet long, emptying into a jar, then you can easily check for air in your system. You push the pedal a few times, go look at the tube, and if you see bubbles, you know you had air. (Remember to check the fluid resevoir often - you don't want to empty it!)

If the 100 isn't listed on their website, give them a call. The 100 probably has the same thread bleed screw as other cruisers, but you'd want to know before trying to install it! My 60 and 80 use the same speedbleeder. You could check with a friendly Toyota parts guy to see if the part numbers for the 100 series bleed screws are the same as for earlier series cruisers.

HTH

 

[jfranke]

Thanks for the feedback - seeing as how I didn't want to mess around with brake noise, I buckled today and drove it into the dealer's shop.

"Bad news, my friend." (I hate when they start out that way) "Master cylinder's failing."

They told me the ssssisssing sound was air escaping around a seal on the MC and that it was only a matter of time before it failed completely. When I asked about how that's related to my pad-replacement...? "Just coincidence, i guess." I figure maybe their punishing me for doing the pads myself.

So good news is my wallet's gonna be quite a bit lighter. For those of you who haven't been given the opportunity to replace MC... $1100 worth of part, 5 hours labor. The factory is eating the part cost, so I'm "only" out the $400 or so for labor. (I asked, the part comes free only if I let them do the labor - smells bad, no?)

anyway - thanks and happy [land]cruising.

-jfranke.

 

[Pitbull]

Why are the parts free? Your not under warranty with a 98 and 75K miles?? Are you?

 

[jfranke]

Bought the truck used/certified so it came with extended warranty... 3 yr/100k mi. I'm right at the edge of that timeframe, so got it in just in time.

 

[Pitbull]

So the certified warranty covers parts but not labor? That sounds weird. I would check that extended warranty and see if it includes the labor. Glad you caught it in time.

 

[1tontoy]

And...I will be sure to let my mom know immediately. (glad i read this thread )

 

[98LXand99LC]

jfranke,

DOT 4 is what you want to use. Right off hand I forget the reasons, but if you do a search I know you'll find a bunch of info on this topic.

FWIW, I installed Speedbleeders on both my 60 & 80. These make it super easy to bleed the brakes solo.

Best Regards,

Lovey (Mrs. Howell? or anyone else that knows)...

I couldn't find why DOT 4 is better than Dot 3 can someone explain? I looked it up in the FSM and it says to use "SAE J1703 or FMVSS NO. 116 DOT3."

 

[lovetoski]

Mrs Howell - WTF?

Did a google search "DOT 4 brake fluid" and found the following short article.

http://www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance/maint1.shtml

Cliff notes version: DOT 4 has a higher boiling point. (Brake fluid absorbs water over time, which is why you should change it, which is partly why I installed speedbleeders.)

 

[Bogiesmotors]

Hello--I have the same master cyl problem..

It looks like I have the same pronlem. ABS light is on and master bad. How many miles on your Cruiser?? What year? I have a 99 with 100K I would be surprised if they will replace that part for free...
That is great news!

Thanks for the feedback - seeing as how I didn't want to mess around with brake noise, I buckled today and drove it into the dealer's shop.

"Bad news, my friend." (I hate when they start out that way) "Master cylinder's failing."

They told me the ssssisssing sound was air escaping around a seal on the MC and that it was only a matter of time before it failed completely. When I asked about how that's related to my pad-replacement...? "Just coincidence, i guess." I figure maybe their punishing me for doing the pads myself.

So good news is my wallet's gonna be quite a bit lighter. For those of you who haven't been given the opportunity to replace MC... $1100 worth of part, 5 hours labor. The factory is eating the part cost, so I'm "only" out the $400 or so for labor. (I asked, the part comes free only if I let them do the labor - smells bad, no?)

anyway - thanks and happy [land]cruising.

-jfranke.