Replace tie rod ends with caster correction?

[spartan]

Getting ready to do some caster correction bushings when I get the truck back from being painted. Long story short - a 4X4 shop didn't get the new OME 2* bushings in correctly several years ago. Didn't really even notice the bad caster until I got new tires and had an alignment.

Putting in Slee 3* caster correction bushings ( myself this time ), new frame to chassis OME poly bushings as long as the arms are off, OME D sway bar bushings F/R and poly sway bar front mount bushings.

The alignment shop had a heck of a time with the tie rod and ends even after I sprayed it every day for a week with PB blaster. It adjusts, but only with a breaker bar and muscle. Thinking about putting in a HD tie rod and greasable TRE's as long as everything is gonna be readjusted anyway. Plus the pressure on the boots from the alignment squeezed the grease out of the sealed TRE's. Light use on the rig past and future. TRE's seem to be good when you give them a good jerk, but most of the grease is out of them now.

New tie rod and TRE's while I'm at it or overkill? Whaddaya think mud brain trust?

 

[devildogcruiser25]

Obviously wouldn't hurt to replace. I did mine with the Slee tie rod and OEM ends. The nice thing about the Slee part is that it doesn't have the slit down the side like OEM, because of that it keeps grime and crap off the threads.

 

[landtank]

actually the slit helps the tie rod release because it allows the tube to expand. It's the section of non slit tubing that the tie rod threads into that won't let go and needs to be heated.