I was hoping someone here might be able to tell me if the 3B motor mounts are easy to swap out on a BJ75 pickup, or for that matter, if they need replacing at all. My truck has 225000km and I suspect they might be worn because shutting off the engine is very abrupt and causes the truck the shake quite noticeably for a second or so. I only have experience with the 6 cylinder diesels, is this a 3B "trait"? It starts and idles OK, no unusual vibrations when driving.
Replace BJ75 motor mounts? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter FRQ
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Hey, I had that issue on my swb with 3b. Changing the motor mounts was easy but didn’t do much. I then replaced all the body mounts with polyurethane ones from 4crawler and that fixed it right up, among a lot of other engine/road related vibration. Both jobs are fairly easy and worth doing. Fixes little things like that and just makes the car feel a lot nicer. Although mine is not a pickup, I’m almost positive it’s the same for motor mounts and there will be fewer body mounts to replace.
You might have a broken mount. You can lever the engine up with an iron bar and see if the rubber has separated, or put a jack under the engine with a block of wood on top of the jack and lift the engine about 20-30mm. Oil leaking onto mounts can also have serious effect on their longevity.
Broken gearbox mounts usually cause unnormal amounts of gearstick flapping
And some diesels do have a violent shut down
Ive never done a 3B mount, but it would be easy, Ive never seen a difficult mount to replace.
A BJ75 is what 30 years old? I would do all 3 mounts out of respect.
Broken gearbox mounts usually cause unnormal amounts of gearstick flapping
And some diesels do have a violent shut down
Ive never done a 3B mount, but it would be easy, Ive never seen a difficult mount to replace.
A BJ75 is what 30 years old? I would do all 3 mounts out of respect.
- Thread starter
- #4
@dcruiser666: thanks for the reply. To replace motor mounts, did you have to remove the gearbox crossmember so you it could tilt down while lifting the engine or was it as easy as jacking up the engine?
@roscoFJ73: visual inspection will be next, just wanted to check in here either way because I'd really hate to replace all mounts only to find out this is normal for a 3B since it drives fine. They're not exactly cheap, about 100€ a piece.
@roscoFJ73: visual inspection will be next, just wanted to check in here either way because I'd really hate to replace all mounts only to find out this is normal for a 3B since it drives fine. They're not exactly cheap, about 100€ a piece.
Im sure you can do better than that online. They will be the same as BJ70,71,73,74. You can get aftermarket BJ73 mounts on aussie ebay for 11 euros. Ive used aftermarket before and they were still good after 6 years, better than 30 year old mounts which have probably sagged 20mm.
- Thread starter
- #6
@roscoFJ73: thanks for the heads up, I'll look around, assuming shipping isn't exorbitant, that sounds like the way to go. Are 70 body and gearbox mounts the same as well or do they vary in height?
mounts are all the same as long as you keep it in the same engine/transmission/transfer family.
@FRQ
You first want to get the front up on jack stands. Wheels need to be off the ground so the suspension it at full travel. Otherwise the truck will move with the engine when you try to lift it. I cracked the bolts a bit on the transmission cross member just so there was no tension there. Not sure if it’s necessary but wanted to be safe. I had to lift the engine to a point where the valve cover was about 2mm from touching the lip of the fire wall before I could get the old mounts out. Easier and safer to do one at a time, the engine can rock if both are disconnected and the engine lifted. So take off the lower nut on one of mounts before you raise the engine. I also had a few different motor mount replacements. Some come with the heat shield glued to the rubber and these are easier since you don’t have to align as many components during installation. Others are just the rubber.
You first want to get the front up on jack stands. Wheels need to be off the ground so the suspension it at full travel. Otherwise the truck will move with the engine when you try to lift it. I cracked the bolts a bit on the transmission cross member just so there was no tension there. Not sure if it’s necessary but wanted to be safe. I had to lift the engine to a point where the valve cover was about 2mm from touching the lip of the fire wall before I could get the old mounts out. Easier and safer to do one at a time, the engine can rock if both are disconnected and the engine lifted. So take off the lower nut on one of mounts before you raise the engine. I also had a few different motor mount replacements. Some come with the heat shield glued to the rubber and these are easier since you don’t have to align as many components during installation. Others are just the rubber.
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Forgot to mention, you need to detach the fan shroud or completely remove it.
Try PartSouq in France, they sell OEM parts at discount prices and send them all over the world
https://partsouq.com/
Just had a look, there are 3 "insulators" (toyotas name for the rubber bit) depending on year
https://partsouq.com/
Just had a look, there are 3 "insulators" (toyotas name for the rubber bit) depending on year
