repainting? (1 Viewer)

[AlaskanHerbs]

hello,
i have a 1977 FJ40 that i am going to repaint (not the original color) this winter. i have full use of a paint booth and sand blaster.
i will be going from green to mustard.
it only has some mild surface rust and a couple isolated rust spots.
it is the original paint so i know theres nothing hidden with a cover up paint job.
i plan to fully disassemble the body and paint each piece individually.
this will not be a show room cruiser but will be a mostly stock daily driver and mountain chaser.
do i sand blast it down to bare metal?
ive heard that sandblasting can warp the metal. not sure if thats true or not.
do i just prep the rusty areas, give it a good light sanding and paint over the old paint?
i also plan to rhino (or similar) line the inside and underneath.

for those that that have sandblasted, what should and shouldnt i do? what should i watch for?
are there options i dont know about?
any other advice and opinions are welcome.

thanks and good night,
herb

 

[my64fj40]

You can still sandblast, but not with the conventional sand. My blaster used a special very fine sand to use, better for an automotive finish, or you could use some sort of media.. Sandblasting can warp metal, but probably not fj40 metal..

And by the way, even though it is original paint you will still find more rust you didn't know about..

If there is rusty areas just blast them down till you don't see the rust anymore, probably see some pitting, then paint over that. Personally I would blast all down to bare metal, that way you know your starting clean again..

And remember it is all about the prep work

 

[AlaskanHerbs]

thanks,

i had planned to blast everything to bare metal and then started to think maybe that wasnt necassary. but it will probably be worth it in the long run.
i dont know much about sand blasting or media blasting, what do i need to get as far as "media".

~herb

 

[Poser]

The warping of the metal is because of the heat generated from the media and the power of the blasting equipment. If you have a massive industrial blasting unit, you can and will warp older, thicker Land Cruiser body parts and can damage later model sheet metal very easily.

If you do not have big time blasting equipment, there is not too much concern about the heat generated from the abrasive since it will not be in the same volume as the larger unit.


Find some ‘black diamond’, I think that is the name, if you can. It is some pretty good stuff.



Seen this?


Or how about this?



A LOT of good information on this topic in both threads.


Good luck!


-Steve

 

[Sparky_Mark]

I'd be concerned about the original paint under the new coating. New paints have far better adhesion to bare metal. I blasted my vehicle a few summers ago, and I did just what you did. Some of my personal experience.....

Blasting - I started out with fine silica sand because it was easy to get. I layed down tarps and reused the material (some may advise against this because the material has less cutting properties after it hits the surface, but I didn't see a noticeable decrease in paint removal capability).
It wasn't till I was almost done that I switched to a medium silica sand and it took the paint off a lot easier (I didn't worry about heating up the metal or ruining the surface - and it didn't).
I used a pressurized blaster with 2 air compressors (to keep up with the volume) and I had a good experience. Use a respirator and hood.

Paint - research your paint system and read the data sheets. I you want to use a rubberized coating on the floor, use a 2 part coating for better adhesion and durability (apply with an undercoating gun).

Good luck and have fun...

 

[AlaskanHerbs]

sparky_mark,

thanks for the info.
is the rubberized under coating youre talking about similar to a spay in bed liner?

how long did it take you to get everything blasted?

cheers,
~herb