Removing oil seals and wheel bearings
- Thread starter GRunner
- Start date
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There's an actual seal remover:
Or, you may be able to hook it with the claw hammer you've got there. You're going to destroy it pulling it out, so have a new one on hand. Then the bearings will just fall out. If you're replacing the bearings and races, you can hit them out from the opposite side with a brass drift. If not, clean them up, grease them, and reinstall with new seals. Great trick for greasing the bearings is putting the grease and bearing in a small ziploc sammie bag and go to town mushing the grease into the bearing.
Or, you may be able to hook it with the claw hammer you've got there. You're going to destroy it pulling it out, so have a new one on hand. Then the bearings will just fall out. If you're replacing the bearings and races, you can hit them out from the opposite side with a brass drift. If not, clean them up, grease them, and reinstall with new seals. Great trick for greasing the bearings is putting the grease and bearing in a small ziploc sammie bag and go to town mushing the grease into the bearing.
Pry them out with a very large flat screwdriver. Just make sure you have replacements- they'll be trashed!
Oh- take the time to grease the spindle bearings while you're in there.
Oh- take the time to grease the spindle bearings while you're in there.
I think I used a pry bar and popped em out....as 1407 said, they will be trashed.
90311-70011
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks for all the comments and help. I got a set of brass punches from OReilly and got the races off, reinstalled the new races and oil seal. However now the snap ring don't have the same clearance anymore. ... I took it out to hammer in the oil seal a bit more but it is the same. Used a 10mm screw to pull axle out but only yielded about 1.5mm space, which was much more before. The local yota dealer dont have 1.8 in stock so order it and waiting.
So frustrated to be without car. Hopefully the 1.8 fits as that's the smallest. Personally I think it is a pretty dumb and old (from the 80s) design to be using snap ring.
So frustrated to be without car. Hopefully the 1.8 fits as that's the smallest. Personally I think it is a pretty dumb and old (from the 80s) design to be using snap ring.
Sorry to hear that. I was able to use my originals. Thank goodness, because Toyota wanted some ungodly amount for each one, and I knew I'd have to buy a bunch. Told them to go p@@s up a rope. Took the gamble and it worked.
Don't forget, if you have the skill/tools you can always make it thinner. Just do it wet and don't overheat it.
Don't forget, if you have the skill/tools you can always make it thinner. Just do it wet and don't overheat it.
In general if you are changing the complete wheel bearings you should not necessarily expect the old snap rings to fit and should have a range of replacement sizes on hand. You can save money by ordering just what you need later but sounds like this is your primary vehicle.
Just be glad it's a user serviceable design. A lot of the more 'modern' wheel bearings are non-adjustable expensive cartridge bearings that require a huge press to replace (back of the 100 series and the front of a tacoma/4-runner come to mind).
- Thread starter
- #11
Thanks again for all the courage I got the 1.8 and 2.0 but they still don't fit. I took the whole hub out and remove the oil seal. Pound the inner bearing more with the old race and a piece of 2x4. Put everything back together now the old clip goes in like a glove!
I hope you meant you pounded the inner race, not the bearing. But glad you worked it out!
There's another seal here, inside the dust shield, that looks like it needs replacing.
There are four bolt heads [2 visible in your pic] that hold the dust shield and the seal. The inner pressed circle that the bolt heads sit in actually carries the inner seal. Its one part - the pressed metal ring and seal. Easy to change out.