Removing alternator (4 Viewers)

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Oil is a big one for the 100 series alternator deaths. Either the PS or the pass side cam seal take them out . Should be a quick straight forward job out the bottom. Be patient it will wiggle out of there. Put it up on ramps to give yourself space . Last one I did took about 30 min.
 
Hey all... I need to replace the alternator on my 99 100 series and have never done it before. I was looking at the factory service manual and it said I need to remove radiator and PS pump to remove alternator?? That doesn’t sound right. Is it really necessary to remove those components before removing alternator??
So, did you do it? I replaced mine in my LX and it was straightforward. I took it out the top, simply unbolt the PS Pump (just the pump, you do not need to disconnect the lines) then unbolt the Alternator and disconnect the cable and connector and work you way out the top. It's a tight fit past the lower radiator hose, but just take your time, it does come out.

Also, I recommend going to www.rockauto.com and buy the remanufactured Bosch Alternator, not the Denso. The Bosch unit has all new bearings and from the feedback and reviews, the Denso remanufactured does not.
 
Yeah I got it out, just took awhile. I took it out from under the vehicle, had to drain the radiator and remove the lower radiator hose. It was kinda a PITA. Sounds like I should have taken it out from the top maybe. I ordered a replacement from the local parts store "O'riellys" Thur. Went to get it yesterday and the bolt threads where not the same. So they ordered 2 more and I need to go check them today in case the other one was just drilled the wrong size. Which I dont think is the issue. Had Autozone order one too.

Do you guys suggest getting it through rockauto and not from the local parts store? I was trying to get the truck up and running yesterday as its the wifes, but that didn't happen. lol

and do you guys end up sending the core back? just wondering if after the shipping it is worth it.
 
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I like to buy from a local Denso dealer, found on the Denso website....

Where To Buy
 
Does anyone have any input on how to remove this stud from the alternator that's threaded. If I hit it with some penetrating oil and let it sit for a while will she come out? Or is there a Loctite on the other end of it?

20181013_132043.jpg
 
well i got the stud out with some penetrating oil and the impact screw gun, but it looks like I dont even need it, lol. But upon reinstall the wiring harness plug locking clip snapped. :(

any advance on where to get one? rock auto maybe
 
Yeah I got it out, just took awhile. I took it out from under the vehicle, had to drain the radiator and remove the lower radiator hose. It was kinda a PITA. Sounds like I should have taken it out from the top maybe. I ordered a replacement from the local parts store "O'riellys" Thur. Went to get it yesterday and the bolt threads where not the same. So they ordered 2 more and I need to go check them today in case the other one was just drilled the wrong size. Which I dont think is the issue. Had Autozone order one too.

Do you guys suggest getting it through rockauto and not from the local parts store? I was trying to get the truck up and running yesterday as its the wifes, but that didn't happen. lol

and do you guys end up sending the core back? just wondering if after the shipping it is worth it.
Rockauto.com will have the right part for your truck at a *much* lower cost than the local auto parts store, even when shipping is included. I'm a convert and I'll never go back to the local store for major parts. The price difference tells me that the local store is making *huge* margins.

The only issue is shipping, so if you need it today then local is your only option.

And yes, I shipped the core back, they don't make these alternators new anymore ALL of them are remanufactured now, so I like to keep the cores headed back for rebuilds
 
well i got the stud out with some penetrating oil and the impact screw gun, but it looks like I dont even need it, lol. But upon reinstall the wiring harness plug locking clip snapped. :(

any advance on where to get one? rock auto maybe
Yep, that stud doesn't do anything for our trucks.
 
My wire harness clip broke also but being pressed for time I installed the broken one then used silicone caulk sealing up the small gap between the harness to the alternator, and haven't had any issues with yet. I do have a new harness on hand now in case an issue pops up
 
The locking clip broke on mine too but the plug was snug when connected so I pulled the rubber cover over and continued installation. it's been months now.
 
Ordered a pig tail clip off Amazon, cut and soldiered the wires in and it works perfectly
 
I replaced the 80 amp alternator on my 1999 LC with a denso reman.. (My idling voltage has been erratic, sometimes just 11.3). Thanks to everyone for the helpful advice at IH8MUD!

I removed the air mixer (big black thing) from above to help with all the usual bolt removals. I sprayed penetrating oil on the bolts for nearly a week when they did not easily move - worried I was going to shear off the lower bolt.

I removed the alternator from the bottom and took a couple of pictures of what I found I needed to disconnect, should it be helpful to someone else.:

1. bolt holding a bracket for two hoses.
20201212_170418.jpg


2. Transmission line from bottom of radiator.

20201212_170440.jpg
 
I replaced the 80 amp alternator on my 1999 LC with a denso reman.. (My idling voltage has been erratic, sometimes just 11.3). Thanks to everyone for the helpful advice at IH8MUD!

I removed the air mixer (big black thing) from above to help with all the usual bolt removals. I sprayed penetrating oil on the bolts for nearly a week when they did not easily move - worried I was going to shear off the lower bolt.

I removed the alternator from the bottom and took a couple of pictures of what I found I needed to disconnect, should it be helpful to someone else.:

1. bolt holding a bracket for two hoses.
View attachment 2523015

2. Transmission line from bottom of radiator.

View attachment 2523018
Great info! Smart to go with a Denso unit, it'll live in there for many years and miles.

You can also take the alternator out from the top. it requires moving a few things around but it does come out from the top without any major disconnections, or removing anything that holds fluid.
 
Replacing my original alternator (died today, 1999LC @ 190K miles). Pulled from the bottom without any hose removals. By far the most difficult part was removal of the electrical connection. Ended up rotating the unit for better access and using a needle nose vice-grips. Everything else I tried seemed to fail- fingers still hurting. Maybe a kind Toyota tech wouldn't mind giving some tips.
(view from above)
20201217_145501.jpg
 
I'm sure it's a similar job, but I did THREE alternators on my wife's Sequoia. I guess the Napa lifetime guaranty means its a guaranty that you'll be doing it over and over for the rest of your life. I went out the bottom without too much fuss.
 
I went through up top after removing fresh air hose and moving some vac hoses. 2003
 
I'm sure it's a similar job, but I did THREE alternators on my wife's Sequoia. I guess the Napa lifetime guaranty means its a guaranty that you'll be doing it over and over for the rest of your life. I went out the bottom without too much fuss.
Yeah, buy the Denso Remanufactured units, much better and good basically forever.
 
Ok, to finish my electron story - changing my alternator did not seem to change my issue (low voltage at idle and headlights on.) I replaced the positive battery terminal and cleaned, sanded, tightened the negative battery ground (near the battery) and now it is working well. I likely did not need to replace the alternator yet - (178K miles), only needed to fix my cable connections. Such is life.

Gil
 

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