removed EGR valve (1 Viewer)

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Jun 24, 2003
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phoenix
I removed the EGR valve assembly. I see alot of carbon buildup, the FSM indicates to replace this. I was able to clean most of it with cleaner but limited to what you have access to( acouple of ports from the union and intake. You think this needs to be replaced or a good cleaning/soaking is good enough?
BTW. a real pain in the A$$ to get to, especially union nut and studs.

thanks
Chris
 
Hi Chris, now that you have your EGR valve off I think that the best thing would be to call some local shops that advertise the BG EGR cleaning service. They have an adaptor plate that bolts to the EGR flange and pumps powerful cleaner through the entire valve. I think the BG website has a service shop locator so use that list and just call until you find a shop that specifically has the BG EGR service. There might be other ways to totally clean that thing but this is the fastest and easiest as far as i know. BTW, did you remove your hood to get the access to the nut or did you use robogrips or what? HTH. :cheers:
 
well first I was tightening the union nut vs. loosening it. I used a cresent wrench to loosen then used robo grips to grap the points to remove it.
 
no idea what's inside this thing, but can't you dunk it in a bucket of solvent?
 
I put all this back together, started it up and was smooth for about 2-3 minutes. No cold start high idle either. I didnt find a nearby shop to clean the EGR. idid soak it in air intake cleaner,etc and scraped some of the carbon from the intake where it butts up to the intake.
I went to do a few errands and the idel got really rough where it stalled on me turning(power steering) into a parking spot. Check engine light comes back on and is the same code 26. I have a Haynes and FSM. Haynes indicates an oxygen sensor which takes me back to my original thought, mayeb OS needs to be replaced.
 
BTW. New EGR costs $174 from my local dealer, havent heard back from a PM from cruiserdan.
 
code 26 means you are running rich. what makes you think this has anything to do with the EGR valve? I'd suspect the 02 sensors. If you have the FSM and a good multimeter there is a way to test them.
 
Semlin, the idle is really rough and hesitates under acceleration.
My htinking was the EGR valve was not shutting off. I use Haynes and FSM, Haynes page 6-25 describes my symptoms exactly. But not ruling out the OS, we have a multimeter at work and I will pull up the ohms on the front and rear OS. Any idea on what OS it would be? What typically goes out first or is it recommended to buy both?
 
I would troubleshoot off the FSM code summary which does not mention EGR for a code 26. Not saying it's not possible just that a bad EGR valve is not where I would start.

with the rough idle added to the mix I would be looking for a vacuum leak and I would carefully check the bellows between the throttle body and MAF for cracks, and inspect all your vacuum lines. after that I'd suspect the o2 sensor.

It could also be a bad EGR valve I guess if it is bad but not blocked, but I had a blocked passage to the intake with no idle symptoms at all. Code 71 is the EGR code which will trigger based on your egr temp sensor on the valve. Not having that code suggests your egr valve is ok. There is an EGR thread under the FAQ with some advice.

If one o2 sensor is bad I would replace both o2 sensors myself since they should have roughly the same lifespan. but your call. Be aware 02 sensors can sometimes pass the multimeter test and still be bad. there is also a recall for o2 sensors on your truck so check with toyota to see if they have been replaced or you may get a free set!

Since you have the valve off, I would also pull and clean the throttle body, especially the egr ports on top (make sure they pass air through), then clean the EGR valve and the passage from egr to the intake (you can get at it from both ends if you pull the t body), then button it up.
 
Great feedback Semlin,
I had to put the EGR back on but cleaned it up pretty good. I made sure the pin was moving up and down inside the EGR, looked like it was. It will have to come back off not realizing the stud bolts would get damaged coming off, no one around had similar size so I had to grind down the tips inorder to get the nuts back on.

I checked the EGR vacuum hoses and other hoses. The filter pack looked clean and was passing air through it as well. I havent messed with the TB yet just visually at the airboot connection.

I also finally took out he K&N, I cleaned the MAS at the filter, seeing that others had/heard problems of the K&N oil effecting the sensor. So I have the a Toyota filter in now.

Yesterday out of curiosity I added Seafoam, I was out later today in it and amazed that the idleing is consistant and the CE light turned off how about 20-30 minutes later. Really dont know what to think, Brentba, had a code 26 and thought he had water in the filter and was cleared up in 2 days. However that said, the hestitating under acceleration is still there. I dont plan ot put this off so will look at the OS. I also read some old posts where the 94s had bad OS I will call a local service dept and see if they have been replaced via the VIN. Maybe CDan could look it up but havent heard back from yet after I PM him.

Chris
 

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