Anyone that has had to deal with the #2 (upper) oil pan knows this BAR (just ask Ali).
This took me a bit longer since I was trying to be thorough and think this through but it should take no more than a couple of hours to replicate this.
It also could be called a "cheap" mod since there's less than $10 of materials into it. Used:
one 10" long 3/4" diam. bolt, flat washer, lock washer & nut,
two 3/8" x 2.5" bolts, hardened washers, nylon lock nuts
6" of 0.25"-wall 1.5"-diam DOM tubing
First I cut the bar off by using a cut-off wheel on an angle grinder to remove the welds on the PS brace. There are two side welds and a small tack weld on the side facing out towards the wheel. I cut the DS off flush with the weld going around the circumference of the tube. Once I had the bar off I used the angle grinder to remove the weld around the tubing stub, leaving just about a 1/4" of the tube exposed on that DS mount.
On the PS I cleaned up the old brace and then put a 4" section of the DOM tube where the original tube was and used a floor jack and heat to reform the brace to the larger DOM diam. Once that brace was opened up to the DOM diam. it is ready to tack into place.
The original tube is just ever so slightly too large of a diam to fit cleanly through the new DOM tube so it has to be reduced in diam enough to slide through the 4" sleeve of DOM. I used a large combo bench belt/wheel sander to do this. I also used a drill mounted sanding wheel to open up the DOM a bit.
Once the original tube can slide easily through the DOM sleeve it can be modified using the 3/4" thread bolt. I had access to a lot of different lengths of 3/4" bolts and just plain 3/4" threaded rod and test fitted them into the inside diam. of the original tube. The 10" long ones had a nice long unthreaded shank that fit into the tube nearly perfectly. I cut the head off of the bolt at 3". I drilled a through hole in one end of the original tube 1.5" from what was the PS end. I drove the bolt head into the tube and plug welded it from both sides on the tube. I added a couple of tack welds where the head and the tubing met. Having the head on the rod is probably not necessary but since I had it there I thought having a head to spin or grab onto might be handy some day. On the opposite end I put the remaining shaft of the bolt with the threads into the tubing so that once it passed through the center hole of the DS brace, I'd have enough to hold the washers and nut. Drilled plug weld holes for that end and welded it up. On this end I did weld completely around the circumference of the bolt shaft and cleaned it up as needed with a grinder so that it fit well into the DS brace.
I put the original tube through the 4" DOM sleeve on the PS and into the DS hole to "aim" the sleeve. Tacked the sleeve into place and made sure the tube could be pulled out and didn't bind. The sleeve was then welded up like the original tube.
I added a small 0.75" section of the DOM at the DS mount to properly seat the rod once the bolt was through DS mount and to lend a bit of support.
Added two 3/8" bolts through the PS mount (now the DOM sleeve) and the rod. One of these goes through the shaft of the bolt head plug-welded into place. I had oriented all of this so the plug weld is 90-deg off-set of the plane the bolts go through.
Checked it all out to make sure the tube could be removed with the PS wheel removed before putting a thin coat of paint on the tube. Too much paint and I'm sure it'll be a bear to remove.
I will not remove my hood and raise my engine off its mounts to deal with the #2 oil pan.
This took me a bit longer since I was trying to be thorough and think this through but it should take no more than a couple of hours to replicate this.
It also could be called a "cheap" mod since there's less than $10 of materials into it. Used:
one 10" long 3/4" diam. bolt, flat washer, lock washer & nut,
two 3/8" x 2.5" bolts, hardened washers, nylon lock nuts
6" of 0.25"-wall 1.5"-diam DOM tubing
First I cut the bar off by using a cut-off wheel on an angle grinder to remove the welds on the PS brace. There are two side welds and a small tack weld on the side facing out towards the wheel. I cut the DS off flush with the weld going around the circumference of the tube. Once I had the bar off I used the angle grinder to remove the weld around the tubing stub, leaving just about a 1/4" of the tube exposed on that DS mount.
On the PS I cleaned up the old brace and then put a 4" section of the DOM tube where the original tube was and used a floor jack and heat to reform the brace to the larger DOM diam. Once that brace was opened up to the DOM diam. it is ready to tack into place.
The original tube is just ever so slightly too large of a diam to fit cleanly through the new DOM tube so it has to be reduced in diam enough to slide through the 4" sleeve of DOM. I used a large combo bench belt/wheel sander to do this. I also used a drill mounted sanding wheel to open up the DOM a bit.
Once the original tube can slide easily through the DOM sleeve it can be modified using the 3/4" thread bolt. I had access to a lot of different lengths of 3/4" bolts and just plain 3/4" threaded rod and test fitted them into the inside diam. of the original tube. The 10" long ones had a nice long unthreaded shank that fit into the tube nearly perfectly. I cut the head off of the bolt at 3". I drilled a through hole in one end of the original tube 1.5" from what was the PS end. I drove the bolt head into the tube and plug welded it from both sides on the tube. I added a couple of tack welds where the head and the tubing met. Having the head on the rod is probably not necessary but since I had it there I thought having a head to spin or grab onto might be handy some day. On the opposite end I put the remaining shaft of the bolt with the threads into the tubing so that once it passed through the center hole of the DS brace, I'd have enough to hold the washers and nut. Drilled plug weld holes for that end and welded it up. On this end I did weld completely around the circumference of the bolt shaft and cleaned it up as needed with a grinder so that it fit well into the DS brace.
I put the original tube through the 4" DOM sleeve on the PS and into the DS hole to "aim" the sleeve. Tacked the sleeve into place and made sure the tube could be pulled out and didn't bind. The sleeve was then welded up like the original tube.
I added a small 0.75" section of the DOM at the DS mount to properly seat the rod once the bolt was through DS mount and to lend a bit of support.
Added two 3/8" bolts through the PS mount (now the DOM sleeve) and the rod. One of these goes through the shaft of the bolt head plug-welded into place. I had oriented all of this so the plug weld is 90-deg off-set of the plane the bolts go through.
Checked it all out to make sure the tube could be removed with the PS wheel removed before putting a thin coat of paint on the tube. Too much paint and I'm sure it'll be a bear to remove.
I will not remove my hood and raise my engine off its mounts to deal with the #2 oil pan.
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