Reef Drawers and Wings - 93 HDJ80 (1 Viewer)

[Moki]

Some info from my experience putting together the Reef drawers and wings and customizing for my use. Hope it helps someone out with their build.

Drawer and wing build are fairly straightforward. Read the entire directions as stated. There are a few graphics that require your imagination, but I’d grade it like a 16+ LEGO set. Feel free to message me if you have a specific question.
**HAVE IN MIND HOW YOU INTEND TO FINISH AND IT’LL SAVE YOU TIME LATER ON**.

Finishes - I chose to do a combination of spray paint (charcoal gray satin), Raptor bed liner (basalt grey), and rattle can poly (semi-gloss was what I had around). I did NOT finish where the drawers slide on bottom or top edge due to the expected friction, or the bottom of drawers or the outer sides of the main base (inside wing). I used Raptor on entire top, inside drawers, and the front. I painted the outside of drawers and some other edges where I didn’t want the bumpiness of the Raptor to have an impact. Also Raptor is expensive and you don’t need to Raptor every aspect.

If you’re just going to use spray paint - paint everything (except the “dado” - slot where drawer bottom fits) before assembly and you won’t have to use painters tape or stickers to cover screw heads or the slides or whatever else after assembly. The tolerances are tight, but not THAT tight to worry about a couple coats of spray paint. If it isn’t fitting, sand it a little.

Other advice -
1. Definitely use the little angle adjustment piece if you have carpet on tailgate.
2. I also bought the solid fronts with the plan for locking paddle latches - haven’t found any that I think will be good with the 1/2” ply. If you have, let me know please.
3. IF you wait to paint until after assembly, painters tape and a razor blade are your friend. I had an unused package of assorted size fuzzy stickers for under furniture legs that I used to cover the heads of bolts; worked well. If you want to paint them, not necessary.
4. The wings when opened can go all the way to horizontal over the main base which is nice. Also they leave about a 1” gap when open above the main base which is great - where I plan to install some L-track.
5. Definitely only screw on the T-nuts one thread. Will make a lot of instal significantly easier.
6. 9mm govt ammo cans fit inside nicely.
7. I used wood filler to fill in the excess top holes prior to bed liner. Just put painters tape underneath and then fill in from top. Remove tape once dry. Worked out well.

Holler if you have any other questions.

 

[LongIsland60]

Where did you get those hinges and how much were they?

 

[Moki]

Where did you get those hinges and how much were they?

Reef Wing Kits

New for 2022 - all new support brackets free up space inside your Reef drawer - works with Reef2 *and* Original Reef (requires drilling 4 holes). Conversion kit for Original Reef to move to the new brackets will be available for sale soon, waiting on bracket manufacture to spin up. Apologies on...

landsharkoutfitters.com

Hinges come with that kit.

 

[gpsmatty]

How do the drawers slide not being on sliders with bearings?

 

[Moki]

How do the drawers slide not being on sliders with bearings?

They slide on the “slides” (there is a different word used in instructions but I forget) which I highlighted in yellow. The three pieces on top, two of which I highlighted in red, are what keep them from tipping out when pulled out far. You lose about an inch of drawer height due to the “slides” but I made some inserts that I put on the drawers when extended to turn them into cooking tables for camp that I store in that 1” void when not in use. The fronts of the drawers hide that bottom gap.

 

[Gesose]

Is it me or do the drawers not seem to be at the same height as the 2nd row seats when folded?

Also, since you've installed these recently, how easy would it be to remove one drawer and leave the other? Are they dependent on one another for anchoring?

We are considering these drawers (with wings and hopefully future sleeping extension) to replace our "proof of concept" platform I built last year to see if we liked sleeping in the back. We ideally want to be able to remove one drawer relatively quickly as to fit longer/taller things inside, like a bicycle.

Your paint job looks great! How is the raptor liner for grip and for knees when crawling around? Thanks!

 

[Moki]

Is it me or do the drawers not seem to be at the same height as the 2nd row seats when folded?

Also, since you've installed these recently, how easy would it be to remove one drawer and leave the other? Are they dependent on one another for anchoring?

We are considering these drawers (with wings and hopefully future sleeping extension) to replace our "proof of concept" platform I built last year to see if we liked sleeping in the back. We ideally want to be able to remove one drawer relatively quickly as to fit longer/taller things inside, like a bicycle.

Your paint job looks great! How is the raptor liner for grip and for knees when crawling around? Thanks!

In that pic the seats aren’t all the way down. They are propped up by a 2x4. Since the seats don’t actually fold flat (they are at an angle), you need some type of shim to get them flat - 2x4 or slightly smaller. There is also a small gap between the drawers and middle seats but an air mattress makes it not too noticeable.
I’m planning to put some L-track and throw a marine carpet on top which should make it level if it’s off by a little bit. I think it’s good, but I can sleep anywhere haha.

You could build it as two separate assemblies: driver drawer and wing AND passenger drawer and wing to remove one side easily. The instructions have you assemble the frame/shell differently for a two drawer setup, but for your idea you could just assemble them each as singles and anchor as singles. The anchors run vertically so they would not impact your plan. If that doesn’t make sense I can send pics when I get her back from being tinted.
Or you could get a bike rack!

Raptor is good. Not too sand papery on the knees but has some texture and friction to it.

Hope that helps. Good luck!

 

[Gesose]

Awesome! Thanks for the quick reply. Good to know I could do the drawers individually. Photo would be cool just for reference, but no rush.

We have a Kuat 2-bike hitch rack, and it's great. It's usually just the 2 of us, but once in a blue moon we take a friend with us. Usually for longer trips where two cars don't make sense. So in that instance we have a fork mount for the rear cargo area which holds the mtb solidly, but requires the full height of the cargo area and the split seat folded up. Just trying to figure out a way to sometime run 3 without having to buy a new rack.

Awesome to hear about the raptor as well. I did herculiner in my old jeep as a teenager and that was sandpaper. I like the idea of something that can stand up to a bit more abuse with some grip but doesn't remove skin.

 

[Moki]

Awesome! Thanks for the quick reply. Good to know I could do the drawers individually. Photo would be cool just for reference, but no rush.

We have a Kuat 2-bike hitch rack, and it's great. It's usually just the 2 of us, but once in a blue moon we take a friend with us. Usually for longer trips where two cars don't make sense. So in that instance we have a fork mount for the rear cargo area which holds the mtb solidly, but requires the full height of the cargo area and the split seat folded up. Just trying to figure out a way to sometime run 3 without having to buy a new rack.

Awesome to hear about the raptor as well. I did herculiner in my old jeep as a teenager and that was sandpaper. I like the idea of something that can stand up to a bit more abuse with some grip but doesn't remove skin.

I’ll send them when I get it back.

I’m stuck between buying a full suspension bike or bumpers for the 80... too much free time.

Makes sense with the rack seat combo and versatility. If you want to know for sure message Cruzerdave and I’m sure he’d help. He’s a one man shop more or less so don’t be turned off if you don’t hear back right away.

 

[cruzerDave]

Great job finishing, looks very professional, and great job writing up! Can you share details on how you anchored? Were those standard 80 anchors or did you buy universal and drill?

 

[Moki]

Great job finishing, looks very professional, and great job writing up! Can you share details on how you anchored? Were those standard 80 anchors or did you buy universal and drill?

I used your 80 anchors but got them in after assembly was complete. For install, recommend cleaning out the holes in floor and taking the extra time to measure out the Center-center measurements of your holes and double checking anchor hole locations against that. Took me a few tries to get it right.

I also had to cut a little meat off the wings where they were rubbing my middle seats - may have been my seats (factory 93 HDJ80 leather) but including for awareness. With the 80 anchors, the drawers sit where they sit, which was already very near the rear lip of cargo area, and couldn’t move them more rearward to avoid rubbing. Not a big deal and I didn’t want to move them more rearward, but know that with 80 anchors the drawers have a pre determined location front to back. With universal anchors you could avoid any possible rub by building the whole thing, placing where it doesn’t rub, taping/marking the anchors in place over the holes, then marking the holes from the bottom with a marker - remove, drill, install. I’m not a scientist but I think that would work.

I got a set of solid fronts from you too but waiting to swap until I find locking paddle latches that work with the thinness of the board.

So far they’re great. May get the aluminum wing supports when you have them cause I don’t like the lost vertical storage space. Looking forward to seeing the new add-ons you’re coming out with.

 

[cruzerDave]

On the anchors, you could always rotate them 180* and then drill where you want (holes are not symmetrical/centered so you shoudl ahve plenty of bare metal to drill into) Good to know the stock 80 holes work though. Interesting on the seat rub, guess you wouldn't want to push them farther back or you'd have to cut off even more wing to open them.

On the paddle latches, yeah tough to find ones that work in this application. Clamshell (Clam Shell??) has needed a custom 3D printed latch receiver and bulk ordering of latches to get the price down. Once I'm satisfied on the receiver's durability/strength those will go up for sale and if you want to swap just email me. Hoping mid-August. Or, if you find a good latch, would you mind sharing? Not guaranteeing I didn't miss something out there....

 

[Moki]

On the anchors, you could always rotate them 180* and then drill where you want (holes are not symmetrical/centered so you shoudl ahve plenty of bare metal to drill into) Good to know the stock 80 holes work though. Interesting on the seat rub, guess you wouldn't want to push them farther back or you'd have to cut off even more wing to open them.

On the paddle latches, yeah tough to find ones that work in this application. Clamshell (Clam Shell??) has needed a custom 3D printed latch receiver and bulk ordering of latches to get the price down. Once I'm satisfied on the receiver's durability/strength those will go up for sale and if you want to swap just email me. Hoping mid-August. Or, if you find a good latch, would you mind sharing? Not guaranteeing I didn't miss something out there....

Too true on the anchor plates. The pre drilled worked for me and here’s a pic of their install position once secured. Second pic is of the wings after the trim. Yellow is roughly what I trimmed.

Sounds good on latches. Will let you know. I was all over the internet but most are appx 3-4” deep.

Keep us posted on the new add-ons! I made some thin table tops with short legs that sit on the drawers when opened without sliding around for my two burner stove. They hide underneath the drawers in between the slides when not in use - same spot your pull out cutting board sits.

 

[Moki]

If anyone is following, I’m sticking with the regular drawer fronts (pictured) and have 2 of the “blank drawer fronts”. They’re $10 a piece on the site but willing to just part with them for $0 if you cover shipping. They have a coat of grey spray paint on them but it’ll come off with sander or easily painted over.

Reasoning: not planning to lock valuables - if someone wants inside the wood they’re getting in. Don’t want to lose more space inside drawers - already impacted by installation hardware in four corners and depth/height.

Considering the upgraded wing supports for a little more depth. 10.5” (external height) // 7.6” (internal height w/o wings) // 6.7” (w/ wing support) // restored to 7.2” with upgraded wing supports.