Recommendations for Refurbish my 04 LC

[Chrisek]

Can you elaborate on Slee saying to keep it stock? Were they just stating that the 100 series is a very capable in stock form? Thanks.

Oh for sure. I visited the shop and they spent some time with me. They asked about my intended purpose, once they found out I have no intention of going off road (just snow covered roads looking for avalanche country), they said just put Toyota parts on it and it will easily handle my useage needs.
If you are interested in getting some suspension work done, I would suggest visiting or at least a phone call. They have worked on a lot of LC’s

 

[BigBen97]

Hey @BigBen97 share the parts list please when you can. So we all don't have to start from the bottom.

Any 200k+ LC/LX need these parts to work well and have lower clunking from down under fixed or at least reduced.

Pretty sure I screwed this up but here’s the list:

Order Contents:

P/N​	Quantity​	Price Each​	Description​
482316A770​	1	$ 81.55​	Coil Spring (Right, Rear)
482316A780​	1	$ 87.82​	Coil Spring (Left, Rear)
9094802127​	2	$ 2.58​	RETAINER
9094802126​	4	$ 3.26​	RETAINER
9056010275​	2	$ 1.83​	PIECE; SPACER FOR REAR STABILIZER BAR; STABILIZER BUSH.
9038511021​	2	$ 1.33​	Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link Bushing (Rear) STABILIZER LINK; STABILIZER REAR BAR.
4881730010​	4	$ 2.11​	Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link Bushing (Front, Rear) FRONT STABILIZER; STABILIZER(FOR REAR).
9038519010​	2	$ 1.48​	BUSH(FOR REAR SHOCK ABSORBER)
4881526250​	2	$ 10.19​	Suspension Stabilizer Bar Bushing (Rear)
9094801003​	4	$ 1.45​	BUSH; CUSHION
4882060032​	2	$ 15.12​	LINK ASSEMBLY FRONT STABILIZER, LEFT; FRONT STABILIZER, RIGHT.
4884960010​	2	$ 7.91​	Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link Bushing (Rear) FOR REAR STABILIZER BAR; STABILIZER LINK.
4881560111​	2	$ 8.70​	Suspension Stabilizer Bar Bushing (Front)

I duplicated some things like ordering the rubber for a bushing where I bought the entire assembly. Haven’t gone back to sort it out but I had a few extras.

 

[Chrisek]

It has been a while since my last update! Friends enjoyed it and it did good work for them. I purchased the full set of body mounts and hardware and had it installed. Not for the faint of heart (15hrs). And I got to inspect the old ones. If you shined a light you would not think to replace them. Nothing broken up/chunked, no myriad of cracks. But they were hard, very hard. On close inspection you can even see a small crack on one in between the bodies of the mount.
Made a difference, no joke. As a group of body isolators even less vibrations are getting into the cabin, very nice. But also a lot of work and money. Not going to say this is a “must do” by any means. The shocks made a bigger difference, and so did the rear bars and front diff mounts. Is it something to think about? Sure. Not in the top 5 though.
Turns out both cv boots are torn. Turns out these are the original cv’s. Turns out 170 cv axles are back ordered in USA. I ordered boots and got on the back order for the CV’s. Going back in Tuesday for this repair. Then driving it for a while while my other car is in the shop. Looking forward to it.

 

[Chrisek]

Been busy but still getting stuff done to the LC. The front cv’s were re-booted (still have not received another pair from the back order). Reduced noise in front end, very nice.
Also replaced the rubber brake lines and parking brake shoes and springs. Brake pedal has better feel and parking brake works again.

Was out west for a month and when I got back finally replaced motor and trans mounts. It turns out the transmission mount was destroyed. Add this to the “do sooner” inspection with the front LCA’s. Unfortunately I also got a new set of tires at same time which is just a bigger difference so not able to discern what the trans mount did.
Next week doing a lap of the country in it (approx 5500 miles give or take) and will be towing a light trailer (under 3000 lbs) on the way back. Looking forward to spending the time as I have not done any long trips in it since the refurbish started.
Side note on the body mounts: the driver side front is no longer squatting as much as it used to, thinking that body mount was done. Thinking the body mounts helped more than I gave credit for. Really enjoying the work done so far and looking forward to the trip. Leaving next Thursday, should only be gone 10-14 days.

 

[Chrisek]

Road trip complete in just 10 days, didn’t tow anything back so will do another “lap” at end of this month (May ‘23). Went out on the 80, hoping to grab a buffalo ribeye in Cheyenne. Didn’t work out, lol. While going around Omaha the battery light came on, and Lincoln Toyota was 30 miles up the road. Made it in, and they were kind enough to work me into the schedule. It was a busy Friday for them, so it was appreciated. Turned out to be the alternator (as expected), they have one technician that tends to “older” Land cruisers (there was also an 80 & 60 series there that day) and he said mine was really nice considering the miles . Alternator came in (late) on Saturday, and again they were kind enough to install and get me back on the road. No other recommendations .
it drives great. Did a couple 1200 mile days in it, extremely comfortable. After the service got 0420 and 0430 codes after most fill ups for some reason (l + r cat codes) but only after fill up AND getting back up over 60mph. Came back on I40, and it did not happen between Oklahoma (western border) and Memphis. Came back on and I finished the trip leaving it on for my local dealer so they could investigate.
While on the trip, read quite a bit on this forum, as far as I can tell the O2 sensors are original, so decided to work them in to the regular maintenance. Did all 4 this time, will replace the fronts every 60k and the rears every 120k. That is the plan. While in my dealership they strongly recommended replacing the cats, so we did. Big job ($wise), hopefully it helps/works. This last road trip overall was really comfortable, makes me want to expand fuel capacity.
‘Heading to Tulsa around the 21st of this month, not sure which vehicle I’m taking yet (family trip), but gonna put some miles in.

 

[Chrisek]

Big thunderstorm came in last night.

 

[Chrisek]

Picture did not post.

 

[Chrisek]

As a quick update, only 140 miles since getting it back. It is running easier, I would guess the cats were clogged, I would also guess when I removed codes on my trip I had to complete a drive cycle before codes could be thrown again. Still does not fully explain how I put 600+ miles on with no codes (OK to Memphis). Tomorrow should be a fill up again (back under a half tank) and I’ll jump on the freeway after to see if it can get tripped up again.

 

[Chrisek]

Further update, another 150 miles and no codes. It is just so calm now this vehicle is so impressive. Got friends coming in from island, they will be borrowing it through early August. Will update when I get it back. Looks like it’s next lap of the country will have to wait.

 

[Chrisek]

Squeaking in another lap of the country before handing it off . Replicating the previous lap and currently in Northern NV. Driving great, no codes, accidentally breezed up to 80 multiple times (was more difficult before). I think I might need to remap mpg vs mph with so much less backpressure in exhaust now.
No winter gas on this trip so will have to wait to see if problem is truly fixed, lowest I’ve seen is 41 degrees while crossing WY.

 

[Chrisek]

Got back from the last lap two nights ago. The drive home wasn’t a lot of fun (I40 was closed for a few hours), but the LC was great.
Climbing to altitude across AZ and the national divide in NM it was a little breathless while towing. Once altitude dropped back down it was back to confident and competent. Just over 313k miles on the clock and happy with it. Brought some cool stuff home this trip.

 

[dealmaker]

@Chrisek, approx how much total have you spent parts and labor on refreshing bushings and hoses, etc the past year on this? Just curious as I do the cost/benefit analysis vs maybe selling in the next year or so.

 

[Chrisek]

@Chrisek, approx how much total have you spent parts and labor on refreshing bushings and hoses, etc the past year on this? Just curious as I do the cost/benefit analysis vs maybe selling in the next year or so.

In 2022 and 2023 (so far) I have spent $10k. Keep in mind that is using my dealer and handling regular maintenance along the way (fluids, tires,etc). I’ve put on 22,000 miles since starting the thread and more importantly had a lot of service work done at 300k as mentioned here.
Usually I spend around $1700/yr on service when driving 30k miles/yr. This year was higher with the tires (those defenders went about 90k!). Hope this helps in your analysis, and you can always separate jobs/spread them out as I have done to suit.
A main question for you is if you do the work, how long would you keep it? You might be surprised at the improvement, but that also has to be weighed with whatever the replacement is.
If you are anywhere near middle TN give me shout, you can drive it for yourself and see what you think.

 

[Chrisek]

Been thinking quite a bit after that last post, been working on going through it for a year now and have the big stuff done. I was happy with it before I started the “300,000 mile bday present” but now it is just a fantastic daily that accruing mileage is of no consequence. I still have things to take on regarding rubber pieces (coolant system is next one the list) and it’s first “mod”, but nothing that should really change its ride or handling. Will still update along the way to show what is found as I think anyone considering a 100 series will have to consider aging stuff if not outright wear.. Hope this has been helpful.

 

[dealmaker]

In 2022 and 2023 (so far) I have spent $10k. Keep in mind that is using my dealer and handling regular maintenance along the way (fluids, tires,etc). I’ve put on 22,000 miles since starting the thread and more importantly had a lot of service work done at 300k as mentioned here.
Usually I spend around $1700/yr on service when driving 30k miles/yr. This year was higher with the tires (those defenders went about 90k!). Hope this helps in your analysis, and you can always separate jobs/spread them out as I have done to suit.
A main question for you is if you do the work, how long would you keep it? You might be surprised at the improvement, but that also has to be weighed with whatever the replacement is.
If you are anywhere near middle TN give me shout, you can drive it for yourself and see what you think.

I was curious as I'm weighing options for starting to address bushings, etc on my '06 LX. Mine is in pretty good "lifetime SoCal soccer-mom" condition so zero rust issues, but it is now 17 yrs old and about 147k miles on the odo. Today I just finished a 2k round trip to Oregon, first long road trip drive in years in the LX, and was reminded how great it is at everything...well almost everything but I won't mention gas mileage . Still, seems like a smart idea for me to start addressing some of the bushings I can replace myself, and maybe some others I can't, like steering rack bushings, as preventative maintenance. $5-10k over the next couple years is easier to swallow than dropping megabucks on a new ride.

 

[Chrisek]

agree, and as long as you are comfortable keeping it then keep looking into doing stuff. One YouTuber (I forgot his name) got a LC100 and put off some stuff overheating his motor when the hoses came off the heater T’s. All we can do is learn from others and hope we get to everything quick enough.
So I dropped mine off today, getting windshield replaced, rod the radiator, replace upper and lower radiator hoses and clamps, overflow bottle and hose, radiator cap, and fuel filter. None of this should make a noticeable difference, just trying to get ahead.
The plan at this time is to do the rest of the coolant lines/heater hoses at 360k the next time I change the coolant.

 

[Chrisek]

Today was a big day in future plans for the LC. Been talking with Slee for the last couple of years and decided to take advantage of one of the great strengths of the pre2005 LC100: getting the LRA 40 gallon main tank installed. Appointment is for end of August.
I’m still on the fence about the aux 40 gallon. Slee heavily recommended me to try the main tank first as it is so handy I may not need the aux. So the question is: why on earth would I need or want 80 gallons on tap (twin 40’s)?
In my mind, my logic is backwards of what most people would think. For my big trip days I find 450-600 mile tank range to be plenty for my style and a single 40 gallon accomplishes that.
But for running around town I like to refill at half tank (which is only 8-12 gallons on the OEM) meaning I am refilling about every other day when running around a lot. Complete PITA. With 80 I can have a week pretty easily between refills or really just topping up whenever I want vs planning a stop in my daily plans.
With the single 40 I should be able to handily go 3-5 days in between while still refilling at half tank. More if I let myself go down to 1/4 . Can always add the aux later is the real point and gives me plenty of time to decide on how to carry the spare (my current preference is to remove 3rd row and tie the spare down in the cargo area).
The other thing I’ve decided on: after 315,000 miles I’m pretty sure the rear springs are weak, AND I may have blown compression damping a little in the rear shocks (replaced at 265,000 miles). After talking with Brian @ Slee have decided to finally try OME. Looking for no or minimal lift I am getting the fronts and rears replaced together to have a matching set. Doing everything I can to give the OME’s a quality shot.
I’ll decide more about the rear aux and suspension at next major service (360,000 miles). I like that it would be easy to back to Toyota stuff as the durability of the springs is not in question. Replacing shocks every so often is acceptable.
Any thought on aux tank and way to carry the spare? I’ve read the threads, but people’s opinions are allowed to change with experience. While I obviously value the rear hatch access, I have never lived with a rear bar and might be exaggerating the extra step to access the hatch. Given the choice, I would prefer not to add that much weight if I can help it, but again maybe it is no big deal.

Just to add, 99% of the time I am solo in the LC, and when travelling just one duffel in the back. Having the spare back there will not meaningfully impede my usage.

 

[Chrisek]

Got the Land Cruiser back today, with a pretty wild finding. First, it is officially at 315k.

The coolant, radiator mounts, upper/lower radiator hoses, and windshield all went smoothly. The weird part came up with the fuel filter. It looked like it has never been changed. Full of black sludge, this was a bit of a surprise.
The obvious good news is how it drove on the way home, unfortunately all back roads due to rush hour traffic. It felt like a more direct connection to the gas pedal.
Tomorrow taking it on the highway to get the windows tinted, curious to see if anything is noticeable.

 

[RND1]

I've enjoyed reading through your thread. I have an '03 with 207k miles, but I live in the salt belt so keeping rust at bay is my biggest challenge.

In 2017, I drove from Boston to Silverton, CO for HIH7. Prior to that trip, I installed new steering rack (was leaking bad), new Toyota shocks all around with OME springs in rear which gave it about a 1" lift, but took away all the rear swag, and 33" BFG K02's. Had a blast driving across country (4900 miles) and doing all the trails in the San Juan's.

I've been thinking of starting to replace the rubber suspension bits. It drives great now with no clunks at all, but I'm sure it would be vastly improved with new rubber. Can the UCA and LCA bushings be replaced or do you have to buy new control arms?

I find that I get 80 miles per quarter tank so when driving cross country, I would drive around 240 miles and fill up at 1/4 tank. This was about the time I needed a break so I was able to do about 600 -700 miles/day with this fill up technique. If your trips are taking you offroad where you don't have access to fuel, I would think the 40 gal tank would be a good idea, but if it's just for convenience I don't think I'd pull the trigger.

 

[NE Snowman]

I think they can be replaced but Toyota doesn’t sell the bushings IIRC. Being in a salt belt could also make pressing them out hella hard, I’d search mud for 100 series LCA bushing replacement. I bet there’s a write up.