Rebuild or replace Transfer Case/Trans

[Eyeorg]

Transfer case has a stripped fill hole (see post ). Ive come a long way since I posted that. But now is the time to fix it. As you may be able to tell from the pics, there is oil everywhere. So, I removed the transmission/transfercase using some guidance from the posts on here. Took me a week or so as everything is seized and I needed some tools.

Its off, and I and not sure I can put it all back together, but the question is. If you were in my spot, would you simply rebuild the transfer case and reattach, or would you replace it with a new one, maybe a H55F. I am going to replace the clutch as well, not sure how to get the flywheel off yet, but the clutch bolts all broke when trying to losen them so that was relatively easy.

I will also be replacing my exhaust, since that was riddled with holes and I needed to move it out of the way, so I just removed it. Also looking to replace the u-joints, as you can see they are a disaster. Took my 2 days just to remove the dang drive line.

Oh, and I am also redoing the interior. I have some rust holes in the floor board, so Ill post more on how to deal with that later.

Am I over my head, yes, I am deep, but Im all in baby! Can i put it all back together? Not sure, but im going to find out.

P.S. - I know nothing about cars, nothing about wrenching, other than leftie loosie righty tighty, and so far I just keep turning left whenever I see a bolt, so please dont waste your time telling me I dont know nuttin, I already know that.

Oh and I am in Utah, so I am going to be visiting my CruisterTeq friends in person soon, they just dont know we are friends yet.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Seems like overkill to replace the transmission and transfer just because of a stripped thread. Buy an M18 helicoil kit and repair the thread.

 

[RevISK]

Keep taking pictures, bagging/labeling parts and asking questions.
You’ll be fine.

I 2nd @Eurasiaoverland just fix what you’ve got.

 

[Eyeorg]

Keep taking pictures, bagging/labeling parts and asking questions.
You’ll be fine.

I 2nd @Eurasiaoverland just fix what you’ve got.

Thanks. The biggest difference this time around, which I failed the first time I made some major changes, is bagging the parts in a ziplock. This small action is huge so far.

 

[Eyeorg]

Seems like overkill to replace the transmission and transfer just because of a stripped thread. Buy an M18 helicoil kit and repair the thread.

Its not just for the stripped thread, but also one of those "while I am down here" kind of scenarios. I assume you are suggesting just a rebuild, which is what I was leaning towards. I am just thinking I never want to be taking the transmission off again.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Why do you think it needs rebuilding? Was it making noise or jumping out of gear? Rebuilding a transfer box is pretty straightforward, but properly rebuilding an H55F is not really a job for someone who claims not to know anything about cars.

 

[RevISK]

He’s right you know.

 

[Eyeorg]

Why do you think it needs rebuilding? Was it making noise or jumping out of gear? Rebuilding a transfer box is pretty straightforward, but properly rebuilding an H55F is not really a job for someone who claims not to know anything about cars.

Well, hmm.....That is a solid question.

There is oil leaking all over, which I guess is just a seal issue, so I could just replace those. The oil when I drained it, seemed to have a substantial amount of metal and was much darker in color than the transmission when I drained it, and I refilled both at the same time about a year ago.

So, maybe you could help tell me. When would you rebuild a transfer case? It did jump out of first gear, but the clutch was likely the issue.

I was just planning on rebuilding the transfer, not the trans. Its not an H55f, the question was, should I rebuild the transfer, or should I just replace it all with a new H55F. I guess that is 2 different parts/pieces, forgive me for being a bit simple on that.

I take it you are saying rebuild the transfer and leave the transmission alone....bolt them back on and walk away.

 

[Spike Strip]

Thanks. The biggest difference this time around, which I failed the first time I made some major changes, is bagging the parts in a ziplock. This small action is huge so far.

And LABEL the bags, for what they are, if you haven't already. Sometimes months or longer go by and you forget what's in the bag.

How many miles on the truck/clutch/drivetrain ?

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Ah sorry, clearly it's an H42, though the rebuild work scope is the same.

Metal in the oil is a good reason to investigate the transfer, and it's a good learning experience to get a factory manual and rebuild the transfer following the manual religiously.

I only see one picture but the oil leaks look pretty mild.

I would strip the transfer. Don't buy a single part until you have fully stripped it, as it may be cheaper to buy a whole new unit.

As for an H55F, it's a good upgrade from an H42. If you want a five speed and have the coin, you might indeed just buy a whole new unit.

 

[Eyeorg]

And LABEL the bags, for what they are, if you haven't already. Sometimes months or longer go by and you forget what's in the bag.

How many miles on the truck/clutch/drivetrain ?

Yes, I never thought I would be the guy to sit on something for months, but life gets in the way and then I dont remember what bolt went where. The zip locks have saved me this time around already.

220K on the truck. I think most everything is original as far as I can tell, except for the fuel pump that was replaced.

 

[Eyeorg]

Ah sorry, clearly it's an H42, though the rebuild work scope is the same.

Metal in the oil is a good reason to investigate the transfer, and it's a good learning experience to get a factory manual and rebuild the transfer following the manual religiously.

I only see one picture but the oil leaks look pretty mild.

I would strip the transfer. Don't buy a single part until you have fully stripped it, as it may be cheaper to buy a whole new unit.

As for an H55F, it's a good upgrade from an H42. If you want a five speed and have the coin, you might indeed just buy a whole new unit.

Thats what I was thinking....just replace it all with new. I figured I would buy the rebuild parts, and if all goes to hell, then Ill purchase new. This whole thing is supposed to be a learning journey for me, so I figured I would take the hard route first. Thanks for the advice.

 

[87 Land Cruiser]

I have a new H55 and Split Case with less than 2k miles for sale (maybe even 1k) on it from my swap that was completed in October. We are going back in and doing a 6l80e. It has a 10% overdrive gear in the split case. I also have a Marks adapter, Willwood clutch master, gm clutch/pressure plate etc all new.

Timing might be an issue for you, because mine isn't going back to CruiserMatt for the auto until mid- March at the earliest, so it won't be available until then.

 

[Eyeorg]

I have a new H55 and Split Case with less than 2k miles for sale (maybe even 1k) on it from my swap that was completed in October. We are going back in and doing a 6l80e. It has a 10% overdrive gear in the split case. I also have a Marks adapter, Willwood clutch master, gm clutch/pressure plate etc all new.

Timing might be an issue for you, because mine isn't going back to CruiserMatt for the auto until mid- March at the earliest, so it won't be available until then.

Yeah I need this thing up and running before spring, or the heat gets too hot to work on it in my garage. If what I am doing fails, then I will hit you up, I am hoping a rebuild and a clean is "enough" for now.

 

[lcwizard]

Yeah I need this thing up and running before spring, or the heat gets too hot to work on it in my garage. If what I am doing fails, then I will hit you up, I am hoping a rebuild and a clean is "enough" for now.

an easy option for the stripped plug is to go up to a 20mm x 1.5 drain plug. I believe the last time I did this I found the drain plug for a Mitsu Montero was 20mm. If you've stripped the threads you won't need to drill. The drill size for that thread is 18.5 mm. A 20mm tap isn't going to argue that 1/2 mm in soft aluminum.
Get a 20mm tap and tap it right on the truck. Coat the tap with grease and it will pick up 90% of the aluminum bits that get displaced while threading. Last time I did this to one of my own was over ten years ago. Still holds fine

 

[Eyeorg]

an easy option for the stripped plug is to go up to a 20mm x 1.5 drain plug. I believe the last time I did this I found the drain plug for a Mitsu Montero was 20mm. If you've stripped the threads you won't need to drill. The drill size for that thread is 18.5 mm. A 20mm tap isn't going to argue that 1/2 mm in soft aluminum.
Get a 20mm tap and tap it right on the truck. Coat the tap with grease and it will pick up 90% of the aluminum bits that get displaced while threading. Last time I did this to one of my own was over ten years ago. Still holds fine

Check out this pic, i am worried that its not just stripped, but the threads are broken off and thus a tap would not fix the problem as there in not any aluminum there to thread with a tap

 

[DrRock]

I’m not super familiar with the back side of that casting so hopefully someone else will chime in. Regardless, if that is broken, a competent machine shop could weld in some aluminum so you could re-tap for a heli-coil or timecert. Since this is just a fill hole, the location isn’t critical.

Cheers, James

 

[pv40]

I’m guessing it’s not broken. I bet when it’s installed it’s a tight fit to get a filler bottle or hose into to the hole. So Toyota notched the inside to make room for the bottle tip. Just a guess I have no idea.