So after getting my butt kicked by what I thought would be a window motor replacement, has now turned into a good learning experience that I wanted to share with the 100 series community. I searched on here briefly before posting and couldn't find anything on this and although it's probably not very common it is pretty hard to understand at home for a DIY'er with no resources. I had both alldata and mitchell on my side which helped but were still vague.
To start off I work for Performance Cruisers in Boerne, Tx (outside of San Antonio) as a mechanic/fabricator. We see all kinds of cruisers new and old. This particular truck was a 1999 100 series land cruiser. The customer came in with a complaint about the left-rear window not working. He claimed it would go down but not up and ended up having a 2x4 stuck in the door after a mechanic had told him he needed a motor and he was not interested in fixing it at the time which was a while back. Sounded plausible, I've changed countless motors and regulators in my years working on cars. So after scheduling the truck in a week later for a few other things too, I started taking apart the door to see what was up. We happened to have a donor 100 sitting outside so I robbed a motor just to confirm my suspicion. Plugged in the good motor and same thing, down but not up. Ok.....so I swapped in a switch. Same thing. Ok well it figures that when you have perfectly good testing parts at your disposal that they won't help you one bit right? Ok so I take a few steps back and start over, I check power and ground at the motor connector unplugged. power and ground signals for down, but only power when in the up position. The green wire going to the motor had no ground when in the up position, but the switch was switching the power correctly. So I move down to the switch. This again is the left rear door, the switch has 5 wires. blue-power, red/blk-ground for down, green/blk-ground for up, and the other two are yellow and green going to the motor.
the green/blk wire is our problem here, getting nothing from this wire....zilch. Indicating a break somewhere....so I hit my resources for diagrams, found that this wire gets it's ground from the master window switch(which can be problematic) so I check there first. Pop the switch out and be careful here because the left door's green/blk wire changes to green/yellow in a junction connector behind the driver's kick panel. shown below.
So to be clear you are looking for the green/yellow wire at the master switch.
Here I had nothing, I checked continuity from the LR door switch to the junction connector and it was good then checked continuity from the master switch to the junction connector and of course had nothing, just double checkin there. So I begin tracing the wire which lead me to the somewhat understandable conclusion of the door harness having a break in it. At least I found it!
This pic is the wire coming out of the orange connector behind the kick panel
and this is the wire coming out of the driver's door harness down low in the corner of the door the broken wire is the green one on the left side of the pic
These harnesses are in a cramped position and being the driver's door they get a lot of movement in them. The harnesses travels across the door, down along side the window channel does a u turn back up to the outlet into the flexible rubber boot in between the door and the body. This includes roughly 30 wires! alot to have flexing inside a door jamb. Simply splicing these back together and routing it back through the boot fixed the issue and is good as new. Hope this helps somebody in the future!
To start off I work for Performance Cruisers in Boerne, Tx (outside of San Antonio) as a mechanic/fabricator. We see all kinds of cruisers new and old. This particular truck was a 1999 100 series land cruiser. The customer came in with a complaint about the left-rear window not working. He claimed it would go down but not up and ended up having a 2x4 stuck in the door after a mechanic had told him he needed a motor and he was not interested in fixing it at the time which was a while back. Sounded plausible, I've changed countless motors and regulators in my years working on cars. So after scheduling the truck in a week later for a few other things too, I started taking apart the door to see what was up. We happened to have a donor 100 sitting outside so I robbed a motor just to confirm my suspicion. Plugged in the good motor and same thing, down but not up. Ok.....so I swapped in a switch. Same thing. Ok well it figures that when you have perfectly good testing parts at your disposal that they won't help you one bit right? Ok so I take a few steps back and start over, I check power and ground at the motor connector unplugged. power and ground signals for down, but only power when in the up position. The green wire going to the motor had no ground when in the up position, but the switch was switching the power correctly. So I move down to the switch. This again is the left rear door, the switch has 5 wires. blue-power, red/blk-ground for down, green/blk-ground for up, and the other two are yellow and green going to the motor.
the green/blk wire is our problem here, getting nothing from this wire....zilch. Indicating a break somewhere....so I hit my resources for diagrams, found that this wire gets it's ground from the master window switch(which can be problematic) so I check there first. Pop the switch out and be careful here because the left door's green/blk wire changes to green/yellow in a junction connector behind the driver's kick panel. shown below.
So to be clear you are looking for the green/yellow wire at the master switch.
Here I had nothing, I checked continuity from the LR door switch to the junction connector and it was good then checked continuity from the master switch to the junction connector and of course had nothing, just double checkin there. So I begin tracing the wire which lead me to the somewhat understandable conclusion of the door harness having a break in it. At least I found it!
This pic is the wire coming out of the orange connector behind the kick panel
and this is the wire coming out of the driver's door harness down low in the corner of the door the broken wire is the green one on the left side of the pic
These harnesses are in a cramped position and being the driver's door they get a lot of movement in them. The harnesses travels across the door, down along side the window channel does a u turn back up to the outlet into the flexible rubber boot in between the door and the body. This includes roughly 30 wires! alot to have flexing inside a door jamb. Simply splicing these back together and routing it back through the boot fixed the issue and is good as new. Hope this helps somebody in the future!
