Rear spring recommendation (1 Viewer)

[TLC2013]

Yeah I was surprised that I added at least 0.25" up front. Not sure if that's an artifact of opening the KDSS screws and the KDSS re-balancing or what.

Apparently I didn't quite knock it out. After taking the measurements last night and looked it over this morning to make sure everything was tight and I noticed the P/S rear coil wasn't properly seated in the bottom seat on the axle - it's slightly past the "stop" point. I'm sure it was right when I seated the coil initially but then it must have shifted while we were reattaching things. D'oh. Going to put a spring compressor on and try to jack up just the P/S and see if I can turn it, or maybe tap it into place by hitting the bottom end of the coil with a hammer or something to get it to slip correctly into the spot as I don't really want to disconnect the sway bar again...

Oh no, bummer. You'll be a pro once it's all said and done. Would you post a picture of how the coil is misaligned/seated ? I am trying to visualize how that happened and to make sure I avoid that in the futire. Do you need to rotate it a bit to get it fully seated ?

 

[linuxgod]

Ok fixed that. Took about 40 minutes. Pulled just the P/S wheel, jacked the diff up on the P/S and compressed the spring, put a spring compressor on it (that took the longest to figure out how to fit it as tightly squeezed as possible w/o hitting stuff with the threaded part), lowered the diff, turned, and then raised it back up and removed the compressor. Voila!

Yes I feel like a pro at this now.

I didn't take a photo of my mistake, but I should have. I can go back and take a pic of the fixed product, I suppose. The bottom of the coil sits in a seat on the diff. The bottom of the coil isn't tapered flat like the top. The "seat" has a spot where the coil ends where it actually starts to rise again. If you lay under the truck and run your finger around that spot you can feel how the seat slopes upwards. My coil was about 1" too far up that. I don't think it would've come out, but it might be responsible for some noise if the bottom of the coil were shifting around. It's step 2 in the installation guide in the FSM, and I know it should fit into that spot. I'm fairly sure mine shifted a tad between setting it in the seat when I started and the repeated jacking up and down w/o the shock in place in order to get the sway bar end link reattached.

 

[linuxgod]

BTW now that I've hijacked the thread sufficiently, might as well record my final numbers

Before (no spacer), 200 miles after spring swap:
D/S rear: 24.375
P/S rear: 24.00

After 10mm spacer (>3/8") and 5-6 miles of city driving (and re-seated the P/S coil):
D/S rear: 24.375
P/S rear: 24.375

Fronts are at 22.875, so I've got 1.5" of rake

 

[MCtree]

BTW now that I've hijacked the thread sufficiently, might as well record my final numbers

Before (no spacer), 200 miles after spring swap:
D/S rear: 24.375
P/S rear: 24.00

After 10mm spacer (>3/8") and 5-6 miles of city driving (and re-seated the P/S coil):
D/S rear: 24.375
P/S rear: 24.375

Fronts are at 22.875, so I've got 1.5" of rake

@linuxgod
So after a year with this set-up, have you experienced any settling in your rear springs ?

I’m contemplating your same set-up though would be happier with maybe an inch less height in my rear. (Maybe 23” from rear hub to fender would be ideal for me).

Though you don’t have an Aux tank, do you?
(Or didn’t at the time of the above measurements?)

 

[linuxgod]

@linuxgod
So after a year with this set-up, have you experienced any settling in your rear springs ?

I’m contemplating your same set-up though would be happier with maybe an inch less height in my rear. (Maybe 23” from rear hub to fender would be ideal for me).

Though you don’t have an Aux tank, do you?
(Or didn’t at the time of the above measurements?)

I can measure. I don’t see any settling though I just went to BP51s so the pressure in them I’m told can have a slight impact on height (vs the foam cell shocks I had) - Slee said I sat 10mm taller after shock replacement

No aux tank. I probably added 20-30# to my drawer but no other weight changes

I suggest hitting a CAT scale and report back your axle weight before you buy anything. My rear is 3700# when empty (and 5300# when loaded with my trailer). Your height will vary a bit depending on how much your axle weight is, so if you’re closer to 4000# the height would likely be an inch lower

 

[MCtree]

Okay!
I had some free time this afternoon.

My Steer Axle is 3080lbs and my drive axle is 3700lbs.
Though my primary tank is half full and the 24gallon Aux is full.

What does this tell me?

Edit:
Ah… I see we have the same rear weight. Though I don’t plan on using a trailer in the future. So I guess I’ll have your same height increase.

 

[linuxgod]

Okay!
I had some free time this afternoon.

My Steer Axle is 3080lbs and my drive axle is 3700lbs.
Though my primary tank is half full and the 24gallon Aux is full.

What does this tell me?

Edit:
Ah… I see we have the same rear weight. Though I don’t plan on using a trailer in the future. So I guess I’ll have your same height increase.

Yeah I’d expect similar rear height

If you plan to load down for camping or carrying cargo then you’ll probably end happy with them. If you don’t expect to be loaded very often you may want a lighter spring. I can’t find a pic but with 400-500# of gear in the trunk including a full cooler and some water on the bumper I was still pretty close to level.

 

[MCtree]

What would the downside be to picking the one-step-lighter spring?
My installer and Ironman seem to be pretty against that.

I mean, right now I have overloaded stock Heritage springs and it’s not horrible.
Wouldn’t the 0-660lb 2” lift springs still be a vast improvement on my current situation? And maybe these springs would only lift me to 23” or so?
Or is there a safety aspect that I need to consider?

I guess it would mean a sag when I’m fully loaded on a camping trip though.

 

[linuxgod]

What would the downside be to picking the one-step-lighter spring?
My installer and Ironman seem to be pretty against that.

I mean, right now I have overloaded stock Heritage springs and it’s not horrible.
Wouldn’t the 0-660lb 2” lift springs still be a vast improvement on my current situation? And maybe these springs would only lift me to 23” or so?
Or is there a safety aspect that I need to consider?

I guess it would mean a sag when I’m fully loaded on a camping trip though.

Too floaty on the highway, too much lean in a turn, higher risk of rollover in an evasive maneuver.

Practically one step lighter will be ok in my experience if you’re ok with a floatier highway ride. Keep in mind the stock cruiser is designed for a rear payload up to I think 4300#

 

[MCtree]

Am I thinking about if wrong; but won’t the 0-660 2” spring still be better than my current situation with stock springs (which have a -1” lift)?

And I’m not saying I’m not going to first try what Ironman prescribes. I’m just preparing for alternatives if my wife won’t let a 3” lift pass.

(3” from my current -1” lift which she likes)

 

[linuxgod]

Am I thinking about if wrong; but won’t the 0-660 2” spring still be better than my current situation with stock springs (which have a -1” lift)?

And I’m not saying I’m not going to first try what Ironman prescribes. I’m just preparing for alternatives if my wife won’t let a 3” lift pass.

(3” from my current -1” lift which she likes)

The spring rate should be similar so if you want a little lift then yes they’re probably better.

Getting the passengers side rear spring it takes some effort but overall it’s not hard to swap rear springs, and they’re not very expensive, so don’t hesitate to get a set and try them. You might even find someone in the forum with takeoffs if they’ve upgraded their spring rate, for instance if you want my tough dog rear springs which are 2” lift and 0-660# you can have them for the cost of shipping (probably <$50).

 

[MCtree]

Okay. Thank you.

I may take you up on those springs, but first I’ll try the ones they are recommending. Hopefully they work.

 

[linuxgod]

Okay. Thank you.

I may take you up on those springs, but first I’ll try the ones they are recommending. Hopefully they work.

No problem if you want them just PM me, they’re sitting in my garage. They were great and even with my rear bumper their heigh was ok but when I tow I add 1000# to the rear and they were too low a spring rate.

 

[isthatalexus]

@linuxgod which version of the BP51 shocks to you have on the rear? I just noticed that there are two versions; one heavy and one light.

I have the 0026'es, and have felt oversprung with OME 2724 (selling them, probably) and undersprung with OME 2721 (selling as well; fruitless experiement). I am about 360kg/788lb over GVWR on the rear axle, so a bit heavier than you...if my calculations are accurate-ish.

You think the 0053's would perform better? (also, do you ever check/maintain your nitrogen levels on the BP51's? I've only seen 290psi as the recommendation from @Taco2Cruiser )

(Currently searching for 2723's on MUD, but will most likely have to buy retail.)

 

[linuxgod]

@linuxgod which version of the BP51 shocks to you have on the rear? I just noticed that there are two versions; one heavy and one light.

I have the 0026'es, and have felt oversprung with OME 2724 (selling them, probably) and undersprung with OME 2721 (selling as well; fruitless experiement). I am about 360kg/788lb over GVWR on the rear axle, so a bit heavier than you...if my calculations are accurate-ish.

You think the 0053's would perform better? (also, do you ever check/maintain your nitrogen levels on the BP51's? I've only seen 290psi as the recommendation from @Taco2Cruiser )

(Currently searching for 2723's on MUD, but will most likely have to buy retail.)

View attachment 3607901

I don’t know which. I’ll try to remember to check the receipt from Slee when I get home. I suspect they are standard not heavy duty, and they are plenty stiff

 

[isthatalexus]

I don’t know which. I’ll try to remember to check the receipt from Slee when I get home. I suspect they are standard not heavy duty, and they are plenty stiff

After a dozen miles, the 2723's feel pretty great. Also, they have the right amount of lift for slight rake. The 2721's had me nearly at stinkbug. I think I'll hang out here. Might add some type of aftermarket bumpstops in rear. Definitely going to find a place to make sure my nitrogen levels are good.

 

[Artie]

After a dozen miles, the 2723's feel pretty great. Also, they have the right amount of lift for slight rake. The 2721's had me nearly at stinkbug. I think I'll hang out here. Might add some type of aftermarket bumpstops in rear. Definitely going to find a place to make sure my nitrogen levels are good.

I have a couple questions about your springs as I’m kicking around experimenting with the 2723’s and don’t want to end up performing a fruitless experiment as you did with the 2721’s. I think our weights are similar based on your comment about your rear axle weight. The lightest I’d run, which isn’t often is 4100 on the rear but when towing I’ve been as heavy as 5360 according to the cat scale.

How are you liking your he 2723’s? Do you tow?

Also, did you ever find a place to check your BP51 nitrogen?

 

[isthatalexus]

I have a couple questions about your springs as I’m kicking around experimenting with the 2723’s and don’t want to end up performing a fruitless experiment as you did with the 2721’s. I think our weights are similar based on your comment about your rear axle weight. The lightest I’d run, which isn’t often is 4100 on the rear but when towing I’ve been as heavy as 5360 according to the cat scale.

How are you liking your he 2723’s? Do you tow?

Also, did you ever find a place to check your BP51 nitrogen?

All good questions. To recap: the '21's were woefully inadequate. The 23's appear to be doing the trick, but I'm still playing w/ BP-51 settings. I tow a 16' flat trailer w/ a 3000lb capacity, but have never maxxed that out. While towing, everything seems fine, if a little under-sprung.

The likely options for people w/ moderately heavy trucks who tow:

• run 2724's, which are great for towing, and live with the firmness when not towing
• run 2723's, which are great (when paired w/ BP-51) and add rear airbags for more support when towing

Since I tow very rarely, and only as utility instead of for recreational purposes, I'm sticking w/ the 23's and not adding airbags. I'm holding on to my 24's as an optional accessory for when the hobby/utility towing is expected to be hefty, or if I'm planning to pack super heavy for camping.

On the shock charging: have been too busy. Will report once that is done, however. (thinking about buying the kit to DIY; a shop will have to remove the reservoirs for access, check, adjust, and put them back on, which is likely 50% of the cost of a tank and gauge setup already.)

 

[Artie]

All good questions. To recap: the '21's were woefully inadequate. The 23's appear to be doing the trick, but I'm still playing w/ BP-51 settings. I tow a 16' flat trailer w/ a 3000lb capacity, but have never maxxed that out. While towing, everything seems fine, if a little under-sprung.

The likely options for people w/ moderately heavy trucks who tow:

• run 2724's, which are great for towing, and live with the firmness when not towing
• run 2723's, which are great (when paired w/ BP-51) and add rear airbags for more support when towing

Since I tow very rarely, and only as utility instead of for recreational purposes, I'm sticking w/ the 23's and not adding airbags. I'm holding on to my 24's as an optional accessory for when the hobby/utility towing is expected to be hefty, or if I'm planning to pack super heavy for camping.

On the shock charging: have been too busy. Will report once that is done, however. (thinking about buying the kit to DIY; a shop will have to remove the reservoirs for access, check, adjust, and put them back on, which is likely 50% of the cost of a tank and gauge setup already.)

Thanks for the feedback.