Rear spoiler removal - potential issues w/ holes left unplugged?

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anyone recall what size screws are needed to plug the holes?
i'm making a trip to the hardware store tomorrow. otherwise i will just pilage the tool box and hopefully find something that will work....

cardy
 
anyone recall what size screws are needed to plug the holes?
i'm making a trip to the hardware store tomorrow. otherwise i will just pilage the tool box and hopefully find something that will work....

cardy

I need that same info -
 
6 mm, just picked some up today. So I remove my spoiler, now I have what seems like a washer with a rubber seal stuck to the body of my truck. I tried to twist and remove this washer but noticed the threads in the spoiler mounting points moving with the washer. Are these one connected unit? If so I should just leave it the way it is? After removal of the spoiler I put the original bolts back in, now there is one I cannot remove. It just spins and the bolt wont back out. Be careful.
 
Alrighty then, even after soaking for several hours in PB blaster, the top allen head bolts on mine were frozen solid, to the point that I managed to booger the heads up on both. Easy-out is a no go due to the location and angle of the bolts. I'm at the "f*** it" phase where I'm ready to just drill the heads off and go from there. But, having never seen one of these removed before, I don't want to cut off my nose to spite my face. Any reason why those bolts should be removed intact? I would assume that there are additional fasteners underneath that actually mount the deflector to the liftgate, that will be accessible after the wing is off?
 
okay, fuzz's issue aside, in terms of what size bolt is need for filling the holes....

i think you can safely coat the allen head bolts that hold the deflector in place with silicone on the threads, and they screw back into the holes that the 10mm bolts came out of....that's my setup as of now for exactly one day!
 
OK, so I tried taking the rear spoiler off today and I ran into a bit of a problem. The wing came off with no issues but on both bases, I could only get the bottom bolts out. The top bolts start turning with light to medium effort but that is where the fun ends. I loosened them up about 3 revolutions before I noticed that they were not backing out. Anyone know a way to get them out?
 
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If you can't get behind the rivnut, I'd cut out the spoiler completely with a cut-off tool. Then spray/soak the rivnut as much as possible. Then try and wedge something like screwdriver between the rivnut and the body to gain friction while backing out the bolt.
 
Gonna bump an ld thread for a seal question.

I have a 2002 LC. Took off my spoiler no problems. Do I need to only seal the hole, or do I need to seal around the Nutsert periphery as well?

What I have now is a SS 6mm x 1.0 thread bolt going thru a Nylon washer than thru a Rubber plumbing washer to try and seal the outside of the nutsert.

But It looks kinda Ghetto, and not in a good way.

Reason I did this is I am worried about the hole in the nutsert as well as the outer edge of it drawing water.

Any thoughts on that?
 
Not to hijack the thread but does the rear spoiler actually keep the back of your 100 series clean? I'm a total clean freak and it's getting old constantly washing the back of my landcruiser every few days. Most of the time my cruiser looks like it just came from a detail shop except for the rear of it. Does it really help?

I don't really like the look of the spoiler but if it helps keep the rear clean I might want to install one.

Yep, sure does, especially the new design.
 
Gonna post in this thread instead of starting a new one. Does anyone have installation instructions for the OEM spoiler for 98-05?
 
I don't have the instructions anymore, but it was very simple - drill the hole, put in the nutcert, bolt on the mounts, and attach the wing. I realize that is of little value. The reason I posted is to share that there is an "installation kit" that is a separate part number. I don't think there was much in it except for a template that you lay over the hatch to locate the holes to drill. I think it was $15 or so and was well worth it to help take the guess work out before drilling.
 
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