I hijacked someone else's picture, but I am trying to show where my leak is. The drip comes down the bolt shown. I replaced the oilpan gasket and still have the leak (hopefully the permatex gasket is not still leaking). The bolt is tight, I checked it. I was thinking its the rear main seal, but wouldnt the leak be below the seal and not to the right. The 1976 2F motor is still mounted, so any suggestions would be appreciated.
Rear Motor Oil Leak
- Thread starter makomark
- Start date
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You can remove the bolt and add some sealant and re-torque it..... just to help narrow down leak possibilities.........
When oil is building up on that bolt the leak is usually from the cam plug in the amended picture.
I agree that the cam plug is often the culprit, but since I have Ed's motor (the one pictured) I can tell you it was the oil galley on the opposite side and the side cover gasket (same side) that were leaking the most.
That engine doesn't leak at all anymore!
I doubt your leak is coming from the crank cap bolt itself, but as Grant says, it can't hurt to torque it.
Oil tends to travel a lot and can end up dripping quite a way from where it exits.
That engine doesn't leak at all anymore!
I doubt your leak is coming from the crank cap bolt itself, but as Grant says, it can't hurt to torque it.
Oil tends to travel a lot and can end up dripping quite a way from where it exits.
- Thread starter
- #5
I agree that the cam plug is often the culprit, but since I have Ed's motor (the one pictured) I can tell you it was the oil galley on the opposite side and the side cover gasket (same side) that were leaking the most.
That engine doesn't leak at all anymore!
I doubt your leak is coming from the crank cap bolt itself, but as Grant says, it can't hurt to torque it.
Oil tends to travel a lot and can end up dripping quite a way from where it exits.
I assume I have to pull the motor to fix it?
Attack it from the rear....
remove trans & bell housing......
reseal all possibilities to eliminate future problems.....
remove trans & bell housing......
reseal all possibilities to eliminate future problems.....
I agree that the cam plug is often the culprit, but since I have Ed's motor (the one pictured)Good eyeI can tell you it was the oil galley on the opposite side and the side cover gasket (same side) that were leaking the most.
That engine doesn't leak at all anymore!
Because you KILLED IT!!!
I doubt your leak is coming from the crank cap bolt itself, but as Grant says, it can't hurt to torque it.X2
Oil tends to travel a lot and can end up dripping quite a way from where it exits.Roger that, I'd bet on the side cover
How much is it leaking anyway?
Ed
I didn't kill that motor, Ed. I re-ringed it without having the cylinders honed/rounded. The new rings didn't fit the oval cylinders as well as your old, worn-in rings, so I actually lost compression from your excellent 112 psi. It just needs some love and a fresh cam and it will last another 40 years! It's just waiting on that nice rack you built for it for someone to find the time.
Now I'm going to go cry because my feelers are hurt.
Mark, it will be difficult to remove the bellhousing as Grant suggests without pulling the motor.
Now I'm going to go cry because my feelers are hurt.
Mark, it will be difficult to remove the bellhousing as Grant suggests without pulling the motor.
I didn't kill that motor, Ed. I re-ringed it without having the cylinders honed/rounded. The new rings didn't fit the oval cylinders as well as your old, worn-in rings, so I actually lost compression from your excellent 112 psi. It just needs some love and a fresh cam and it will last another 40 years! It's just waiting on that nice rack you built for it for someone to find the time.
Now I'm going to go cry because my feelers are hurt.
Mark, it will be difficult to remove the bellhousing as Grant suggests without pulling the motor.
I imagine that running it would improve compression as the rings wear in to fit the cylinders. As a poor college kid, I routinely replaced disc brake pads on my MGB without ever trueing the rotors. The result was less brakes initially, but then the pads wore to fit the groovy rotors. Same thing might apply to rings as long as you had compression enough to le t it run. Dunno.
Don't get your feelers hurt
Ed
Bell housing removal
After trans is removed .......
lower supported engine till back of the head rest on firewall....
remove flywheel and starter wires....
remove 6 bell housing retaining bolts and it'll fall off.......no biggie
After trans is removed .......
lower supported engine till back of the head rest on firewall....
remove flywheel and starter wires....
remove 6 bell housing retaining bolts and it'll fall off.......no biggie
You have to remove the rear engine mounts too, right?
I'll try that next time I'm messin'
- Thread starter
- #12
Its not bad, mayber 5 drops per day.
That's the Toyota oil level gauge. When it stops leaking, you know you're out of oil.
I would not mess with it then. Wait until you're doing a clutch and address it then. JMO
I think the first step in locating an oil leak is a trip to the carwash. All leaks get blown to the rear.
Ed
