Rear Locker Actuator Stuck - Why Not Just Silicone Spray Lube?

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you don't need to swap the entire housing, just the third. An open rear third is worth 100.00. And how much are you going to get for a locked third once you tell them the actuator is dead?

It's very likely you could swap me for the auto locker and then swap your locked third for an open one straight across.

The only cost to you would be time, a gasket and some fluid.

Not trying to talk you into it but if you really wanted an auto locker in the rear it would be that easy and nearly 0 dollars.

I hear you - most of this thread is about my trying to be lazy to fix something I can just fix. Thanks for the offer...I just need to go and fix my junk.

I've had front axle parts on the shelf for two years, steering box parts on the bench for one year...haven't cranked single nut on any of them...you get my dilemma :hillbilly:
 
I hear you - most of this thread is about my trying to be lazy to fix something I can just fix. Thanks for the offer...I just need to go and fix my junk.

I've had front axle parts on the shelf for two years, steering box parts on the bench for one year...haven't cranked single nut on any of them...you get my dilemma :hillbilly:

You sound like me Nay.
Now just go get to work:grinpimp:
 
The actuator isn't necessarily dead.

But if he wants to trade it straight across, I'm sure he'll find many willing people. :lol:

correct but if it isn't working than that would be the assumption that any sane person would make.

I'm betting that I can get it going but that is based on working on a few and to be honest I haven't been 100% successful either.

It's been around a 66% success rate. Screws break off, magnets come unglued, cases crack while separating them. It's a gamble to whether or not if it will work reliably in the end.
 
correct but if it isn't working than that would be the assumption that any sane person would make.

I'm betting that I can get it going but that is based on working on a few and to be honest I haven't been 100% successful either.

It's been around a 66% success rate. Screws break off, magnets come unglued, cases crack while separating them. It's a gamble to whether or not if it will work reliably in the end.

It's too bad there isn't a reliable core exchange for rebuild business going on these. I can see where it would be difficult to know if you're going to get back a core that can even be rebuilt.

Another idea maybe - build a cover plate that covers the hole left when removing the locker. That can be sold and sent out to the customer, they pull the locker and put on the cover plate and send in the locker. If it can be rebuilt - they get charged appropriately. If it can not, then the customer is informed and their old part sent back. Since the customer buys the cover plate - they get to keep it. If their locker can't be rebuilt - then they at least know that they're looking for another one.

I recall years ago that there was a company making cable actuator replacements for the electric ones. I haven't seen anything like that in a long time though - does anyone recall these? As our trucks get older - and expensive parts like the locker actuator start to wear out - simplifying some of the systems starts to have some attraction.
 
It's too bad there isn't a reliable core exchange for rebuild business going on these. I can see where it would be difficult to know if you're going to get back a core that can even be rebuilt.

Another idea maybe - build a cover plate that covers the hole left when removing the locker. That can be sold and sent out to the customer, they pull the locker and put on the cover plate and send in the locker. If it can be rebuilt - they get charged appropriately. If it can not, then the customer is informed and their old part sent back. Since the customer buys the cover plate - they get to keep it. If their locker can't be rebuilt - then they at least know that they're looking for another one.

I recall years ago that there was a company making cable actuator replacements for the electric ones. I haven't seen anything like that in a long time though - does anyone recall these? As our trucks get older - and expensive parts like the locker actuator start to wear out - simplifying some of the systems starts to have some attraction.

I agree. Sigh. It would be smart to just go auto locker now - the truck is 17 years old. Holiday season is a bad time to think about these things :bang:
 
I recall years ago that there was a company making cable actuator replacements for the electric ones. I haven't seen anything like that in a long time though - does anyone recall these? As our trucks get older - and expensive parts like the locker actuator start to wear out - simplifying some of the systems starts to have some attraction.

Downey made the cable actuators for the Elocker at one point.
Ive seen a couple in person and there is a thread about rigging up the necessary bracket to provide the cable stop.

Also a thread about the blockoff plate described in the post above so you can run it without the actuator installed.
 
I have had great success repairing them. The only failures that I remember were; one burned up motor from attempting to run it bound up and one where the diff was dropped, smashing the motor cover and cracking the housing. Even that one we were able to get it to work, just not as reliably as needed, would sometimes bind. But, we don't have the rust issues that some deal with.
 
I have had great success repairing them. The only failures that I remember were; one burned up motor from attempting to run it bound up and one where the diff was dropped, smashing the motor cover and cracking the housing. Even that one we were able to get it to work, just not as reliably as needed, would sometimes bind. But, we don't have the rust issues that some deal with.

you guys do have a nice environment for sure. I've worked on a few that looked like they were salvaged from a 18th century ship wreck.
 
Downey made the cable actuators for the Elocker at one point.
Ive seen a couple in person and there is a thread about rigging up the necessary bracket to provide the cable stop.

Also a thread about the blockoff plate described in the post above so you can run it without the actuator installed.

Hmmm... I wonder what it would cost to fabricate a few sets of those cable actuators. Downey doesn't seem to be an ongoing concern now - (seem to be gone).
 
So to replace the rear e locker with a ARB or a Aussie locker you just need resource a unlocked rear third? Where is the best place to find a unlocked third member?
 
Where is the best place to find a unlocked third member?

Someone parting out an 80, or someone who wants a locked axle (if you have one to swap).
 
So to replace the rear e locker with a ARB or a Aussie locker you just need resource a unlocked rear third? Where is the best place to find a unlocked third member?

The problem I have with this really is that my 5.29s are already installed. If you still had 4.10's, you might be able to trade thirds with somebody who has an Aussie already installed.
 
The problem I have with this really is that my 5.29s are already installed. If you still had 4.10's, you might be able to trade thirds with somebody who has an Aussie already installed.

I'm still thinking the cable-driven actuators sound like a good option. Does anyone have pictures or tech links from those Downey ones? I'm wondering how hard it would be to scratch fabricate a set.
 
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