Rear hatch struts...failing?

[CharlieS]

Super helpful, thanks!

Were your bolts difficult to remove? Did you soak them in WD40 by chance? Did you use a 12mm open wrench as @airforce1 stated a few posts above?

The threaded post/knob side comes out a little slowly.

The replacement factory threaded knob part has blue thread locker.

You can see the residue in the one in my last picture posted above (OEM off my '13 - no idea why I kept them, I'm a packrat), so I'd say yes it does.

Yes, it is 12mm.

I used an open ended spanner wrench for that end and a 1/4" socket for the other end.

I don't recall it being especially difficult (except the part where I didn't plan ahead and had to use my head to hold it up while trying to work ).

There is some small chance I used an especially thin spanner (I have a set from Olsa tools), but I don't dig them out very often, so I suspect that it was just a regular spanner.

Side rant - I don't use WD40 for anything other than for driving water out of assemblies. It's fine to flush out the dirty action of a shotgun before cleaning it properly, or discouraging surface rust on wet hand tools. My father told me long ago that WD40 (as in Water displacing 40th try at a formula) is not a penetrating oil or a lubricant - it is a water displacer - I generally use Kroil and PB Blaster for penetrating oils and a wide array of lubricants made for a particular purpose.

But back to the original question - no WD40 or penetrating oil was needed here.

One more thing, the part pictured above comes with/installed on the factory replacement strut assembly part. You don't need to order it separately, although you can. I didn't know that, so I ordered two and they've sat in my parts pile since.

 

[Malleus]

Having the same problem on my 08 LX570. Glad to hear it wasn't the motor.

 

[CharlieS]

The factory part comes with the bracket installed and the ball loose. I installed it as designed.

Editing my prior comment, I must have been thinking of a different vehicle with the clips - the factory toyota rear strut comes with the ball portion attached. Sorry if I added confusion to the discussion.

 

[doru]

I used aftermarket on my powered hatch (Tuff Support PN:612926 & PN:612927). I also used thread sealant (Loctite 243) on the post & bolts threads to prevent future corrosion or water leaks past them.
Yes, for power you need to remove some of the sensor screws and a clip to access the upper bolts and not bend the sensor. The sensor is the black metal with rubber that goes all the way around the hatch, preventing the hatch from closing if there is an obstruction (e.g. your hand). The clip has a bad habit of breaking so you may need to buy a new one PN:6161742040 for $1.60 each. If it does break and you do not want to bother replacing it make sure you cover the hole on the hatch with duct tape before installing the sensor back. I did that until I got the clip ordered.

 

[hankinid]

Lift Support Depot is gtg.

To keep the hood or hatch open, I shove a couple pieces of fuel line over some pointed nose vise grips on the side I'm not removing and replacing.

With Idaho's temperature extremes, I plan on new struts for the LC and LX every couple of years.

 

[arrivederci]

I have had the Lift Support Depot ones for about 2 years after my factory ones were shot. They are ok but don't seem to dampen much when opening manually (ie, it seems to slam open). When I replace these again, I'll get factory parts.